* Your First Fishing Trip

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Your First Fishing Trip - Important Things You Must Know

Author: Abhishek Agarwal
Prior to delving into the technicalities of fishing and fishing gear, you should have your paper work in order. Remember that many spots in the US and around the world require anglers to have a fishing permit or license before they can fish in waters conditioned for good fishing.



Once you have your required paper work in order you need to have a basic fishing kit, a kit that includes just the basic equipment for you to catch a fish or two and one that you can add to as you gain experience along the way. Common sense will have you know that you need to match the fishing line to the fishing rod and reel. Once you have perfectly matched rod, reel and line you will be well on your way to an enjoyable fishing experience. A well matched fishing line and reel prevents anglers from encountering what is called a bird's nest. However, have no fear even the most experienced of fishermen encounter that problem from time to time.



The first accomplishment for an amateur angler is to have a perfectly matched fishing rod, line, reel and lure. This set is not very expensive and is expected to cost an amateur angler somewhere between $25 to $40, and these last for many years. Look ot for three main points while purchasing your first rod:



• Guides that come attached to the rod

• Type of grip or handle that is essential for a good rod

• Reel set for different kinds of line.



There are many kinds of fishing rods to choose from. Some rods are a single piece of bamboo or fiber-glass, while others can be dismantled into multiple pieces and can be stored away in a fishing fit. There are no nuts and bolts to assemble the dismantle-able fishing rods. Just insert the ends into each other and you are ready to go. Try bending the rod to ensure flexibility before buying the rod. This will ensure your comfort level with the equipment.



When shopping for a fishing rod you should try to get yourself one that is 6 feet long and not too heavy. If you do not want to buy a rod to begin with you could get yourself a long flexible stick that is easily fund around the place you plan to fish.



When it comes to fishing lines you are in luck. In the past there were lines made from horse's hair. These lines had to be dried before reeling them in to prevent them from rotting. Likewise there were the silk lines that also needed to be dried for the same reason. Today we have nylon fishing lines that come in many gauges and weights. These lines do not tangle easily nor do they have to be dried. So take your pick.



In the end of it all the fishing gear, line hook, reels and rod must match to ensure you have an enjoyable fishing trip with the least of hitches. Try to add sub glasses, a fishing knife, line clippers, fist aid kit, fishing that to block out the sun and of course your snacks and drinks!
About the Author:
Abhishek is an avid Fishing enthusiast and he has got some great Fishing Secrets up his sleeves! Download his FREE 116 Pages Ebook, "Fishing Mastery!" from his website http://www.Fishing-Masters.com/772/index.htm . Only limited Free Copies available.
Article Source: http://www.articlesbase.com/fishing-articles/your-first-fishing-trip-important-things-you-must-know-776095.html

image from : baitfeedonline.co.uk

Tautog Fishing Tips

Author: Chris Bell
Tautog, also know as Blackfish, are extremely tough fighters and very sneaky fish that can be difficult to catch. However, they are great on the dinner table. We will go over some useful information about how to catch these fish.
Anchor Retrieval SystemA good anchor system uses two ropes, one attached to the front of the anchor, and the usual anchor rope attached to the back of the anchor. The rope attached to the front should have a small buoy on it. When you drop the anchor make sure the ropes don't wrap each other, as this will defeat the purpose of the second rope. When it comes time to pull the anchor up, motor up carefully to the buoy, bringing in the other rope as you approach, then grap the buoy and pull the anchor in the rest of the way using the buoy rope. This pulls the anchor from the front, pulling it right out o the bottom and any rocks it may have been stuck under.
Boat Handling
It is necessary to anchor the boat over the rocky structure that Tautog prefer. This can sometimes be very difficult, if you don't get over the structure you wont be catching any fish. Once you get the boat anchored, remember that an area can be fished out, so it is necessary to let out anchor line as you fish to cover new ground. Make sure that you are anchored so that letting out line wll still place you over structure.
RiggingTautog like to hide among rock piles and it isn't unusual to lose a lot of rigs when fishing for them. We use a very simple rig which helps reduce the loss of tackle to a minimum. A simple monofilament leader with a loop is tied onto the line and then a hook with a leader is tied to this length of mono leader, with the hook able to hang down to the level of the loop. Then we tie a small loop with 12lb test mono, these are used to attach the sinker to the leader loop. This lighter sinker loop will break before the main leader does, and it is the sinker that often gets hung up with this rig, since it hangs down below the hook. This way you usually only lose sinkers.
Bait
We use crabs for bait. It is easy for us to catch them at the dock and is doesn't matter what kind they are (except for spider crabs, we don't use them). Most of the time we remove the legs, claws, and cut the crab in half, then remove the upper shell before placing it on the hook. If it is a very large crab we will cut the halves in half and use quarters
FishingLet your baited rig down to the bottom. It is necessary to keep the line tight so you may feel the hit, otherwise the bait can be lost with no clue to the fact that there was a bite. If the boat is swinging back and forth, do not let the rig drag across the bottom, this will hang it up for sure. Always lift it off the bottom and let it back down as the boat moves. Banging the sinker on the bottom will make noise which can bring the tautog in to investigate.
The Bite
With Tautog, you will often feel the tap-tap-taps and will want to instantly try to set the hook. This does not usually work, you need to wait until you feel the taps become tugs, then try setting the hook. If the fish is hooked, get him away from the bottom as quickly as you can so he can't get hung up in the rocks. Remember not to lift the head out of the water as you try to net the fish, this is a good way to lose him.
When to FishIn the fall when the tautog bite is really on you can catch a lot of fish, and they can be pretty easy to hook. During the spring and summer, they are not so aggressive and tautog fishing can be somewhat frustrating. Late October and early November are usually the best times to fish for them. Time of day is not usually an issue, far more important is tide, which needs to be running for the bite to be on. Slack tide in not usually very good.
About the Author:
Chris Bell has fished Rhode Island waters for 11 years. Before that he was a writer and PC administrator. He now guides Tautog fishing charters out of Jim's Dock in RI on several boats and in the winter writes on various aspects of fishing for stripers, flounder, and other species and fishing techniques.

Article Source: http://www.articlesbase.com/fishing-articles/tautog-fishing-tips-794457.html

* BASIC FIRST AID

image from : pmpp.blogspot.com

Removing a Hook From Your Skin

Occasionally an angler will get a fishhook in the skin. Removing a fishhook is best left to a doctor
or a hospital's emergency room. Once a fishhook enters the skin beyond the barb, it is hard to
remove. Never remove a hook from around a person's eyes, face, the back of the hands, or any area where ligaments, tendons, or blood vessels are visible.
There is a method that can be used to remove a hook if it is not in a vital area.
First cut the hook away from the rest of the fishing lure. Then, put a loop of heavy twine or fishing line around the bend of the hook.



Next, hold down the eye and shank of the
hook, pressing it lightly to the skin. Grasp
the loop in the line and, with a sharp jerk,
pull the hook free.
Any hook wound should be followed by a
tetanus shot if the victim has not had one in
the past five years.

Cuts and Bleeding

In all cases of serious bleeding where there is a large or deep cut, call a doctor, get the victim to
a hospital, or call paramedics at once. Small cuts can be handled by adhesive bandages and
antiseptic. For large or deep cuts, pressing directly on the wound with a clean gauze pad or
handkerchief will reduce bleeding. Use the procedure taught at Red Cross training courses to
ensure that proper amounts of pressure are applied.

Hypothermia

Hypothermia means your body is losing heat faster that it can produce it. Without treatment your
life is in danger. Exposure to the cold along with wind, wetness and exhaustion causes
hypothermia. It doesn't have to be freezing cold for you to develop hypothermia. Many cases of
hypothermia develop in air temperatures between 30 and 50 degrees Fahrenheit. Cold water
takes away body heat 25 times faster than air of the same temperature. Any water colder than
70 degrees can cause hypothermia.


To protect yourself from hypothermia stay warm and dry.

Remember that wind makes you colder. If you fall into cold
water with a PFD on, don't thrash around. Excess
movement speeds up heat loss. Instead, bring your knees
up towards your chin and bend your legs as though you
are sitting. This is called the Heat Escape Lessening
Position or "H.E.L.P." This helps hold body heat and slows
cooling.
To detect hypothermia, watch for these signs:
uncontrollable shivering, fumbling hands, frequent
stumbling, a lurching walk, vague slow speech, drowsiness
or apparent exhaustion.

Source : take me fishing

* Planning Your Trolling Boat

When you rig a boat for trolling, you will want it to provide you and your buddies with the most enjoyable fishing trips you could ask for. Here are some time proven trolling boat layouts.

If you fish alone in a small tiller boat, mounting the downriggers at the transom is a practical choice. You can keep everything in easy reach, eliminating the need to get up and move around the boat. ( illustration 1 )


If two or more people are fishing in a small tiller boat, try mounting the downriggers midship. Everybody can reach the downriggers and rods from either end of the boat. Pedestal mounts may be needed for the downriggers to clear the gunwales and swivel mounting bases will make for easier docking. ( illustration 2 )


On larger console style boats, a pair of Captain's Paks on swivel mounting bases are a popular arrangement. The swivel mounting base allows you to spread your lines wider when fishing and can be turned inline with the gunwales when the boat comes to the dock. ( illustration 3 )


If your boat is large enough for a large fishing party, mount a pair of Pro Sportsman downriggers at the transom and a pair of Captain's Paks on swivel mounting bases futher forward on the gunwales. With this many lines in the water, your lure presentation will resemble a school of bait fish. ( illustration 4 )


The same kind of presentation can be achieved by installing four Captain's Paks on a removable transom bar. The whole downrigging system can be removed as one unit when your boat is to be use for other purposes. ( illustration 5 )


When installing a planer rigger system, remember two important facts. First, the taller your mast is, the greater distance your planers will travel from the sides of your boat. And second, the further forward you mount your mast, the less distance your planers will travel behind your transom. Both points effect navagation and line control. ( illustration 6 )


A popular method of mounting the planer mast is to use a pedestal seat mount ( sold in our Parts Department ). It fits Springfield Taperlock seat bases, that are common on most boats. The seat mount makes the mast easily removable for storage. ( illustration 7 )


Two single reel planer masts mounted on the gunwales just behind the cabin or canopy top are popular for larger boats where the bow is not easily accessable.(illustration 8 )


Or you can upgrade your mast with a pair of electric planer reels. Big Jon electric reels come complete with remote switches and circuit breakers, so you can operate them from the cabin. ( illustration 9 )



Plan your boat for comfort and safety. Having to much equipment, or having it located in the wrong place can hamper your ability to move around freely. Before mounting any equipment, get in your boat with your fishing buddies and discuss the best location for each piece of equipment. All equipment should be easily accessable to all fishermen.

free Download Articel Planning Your Trolling Boat

Adopted From BigJon SportFish

* Monster Rigging a Mann’s Giganticus G50+

The Mann’s G50+ is the deepest diving lure available. Mann’s claim that at 4 Miles per hour with 200 feet of 80 Pounds test line out it will dive to a depth of 50 feet, even deeper on lighter line or superbraid.
This makes it a useful addition to any offshore arsenal for those days when fish are holding deep. Tuna, wahoo, marlin and sharks will all hit it but the Mustad double hooks supplied as standard aren’t strong enough for tackling the real big guys. Here’s how to rig the Giganticus to tackle anything that swims.
Materials

• 18” 600 – 1000 lb 49 strand cable
• 4 x copper crimp sleeves to suit cable
• 1 x 8/0 Crane swivel
• 2 x 12/0 hooks
• 1 x 14 mm stainless steel welded ring
• 3 x stainless steel shackle

Method

First remove the standard double hooks, these can always be refitted if the lure is to be used for “lighter” fishing. Like this it also makes a great teaser when trolling for billfish or tuna but it’s best to run it on a short wire leader to save your 70 Dollar lure if a passing mako takes a fancy to it.


Thread two sleeves onto the cable and bend back about 4” of cable through the sleeves. Adjust the first sleeve to make a loop about 3⁄4” long and crimp in place. Trim the total length of the return in the cable to 31⁄4”, slide the second sleeve so that it just covers the cut end of the cable and crimp this into place.

Do the same at the other end of the cable but before making the loop slide the swivel and the steel ring onto the cable. Make sure that both crimped loops are aligned in the same plane before crimping the sleeves into position.


You should now have a cable harness 10” in length with a plain crimped loop at one end and a crimped loop with a swivel and a ring at the other. Now we can assemble our rig.


Using two of the shackles link one hook to the end loop of the harness so that the hook rides point up and link the second hook to the welded steel ring so that it rides point down.




Select the monster towing bracket provided with the lure.


To attach the harness to the lure push the towing bracket up through the lip of the lure and attach either a monofilament or cable leader.


Link the lower hole on the Monster bracket to the unused eye of the Crane swivel with the first shackle.


Hold the harness along the underside of the lure and note that the double cable between the first two sleeves lines up with the original hook attachment eye on the belly of the lure.


Push this up over the eye with one wire on each side of the eye to keep the harness in a central position along the lure.



The Stretch 50 has moulded in lugs to allow location of rubber bands to secure the the harness to the lure, however I prefer to use light copper wire or monofilament to secure the harness to the two original attachment eyes on the lure. Whichever you choose should break away on the strike allowing the lure to slide away up the leader.

Now tighten the three shackles with pliers, double check your crimping, sharpen your hooks and go trolling.

Free Download Articel Monster Rigging a Mann’s Giganticus G50+

Adopted From
Monster Rigging a Mann’s Giganticus G50+
Become an instant expert with Spike

* Rapala Fishing Knot

The purpose of this knot is to achieve maximum action from a vibrating lure by not cinching to the eye of the lure. This knot is equaly suited for both monofilament and all super lines.

1. Tie a simple overhand knot leaving about a 5" tag. Now run tag through eye of lure as shown to the left.

2. Run end of tag back through loop of overhand knot.

3. Wrap tag end around standing part of line 3 times.

4. Thread tag end through loop of overhand knot.

5. Pass tag end through loop that was formed above.

6. Moisten line with saliva draw knot up tight.



Free Download Basic Knot Rapala
Free Downloada Wallpaper Rapala

* Trolling For Yellowfin Tuna And Albacore

Trolling For Yellowfin-Ahi Tuna

The down time between jig strikes when trolling for yellowfin tuna can seem endless. There are many variables that can make or break a successful troll for tuna. In addition to lure selection and speed, also having the lure at the right depth is also very important. There are different factors in choosing the lure best suited for certain situations. Style, color and size should all be considered. Yellowfin tuna anglers should also remember the effect that ocean conditions and speed can have on how a lure tracks in the water. Crank bait type plugs such as large Rapalas and mirOlures are terrific as are the cedar plugs for yellowfin. However good they are when the seas are smooth they are very difficult to keep in the water in sloppy conditions. Best trolling speed is usually found between 6 and 7 ½ knots; the larger lures will draw bites from bluefin tuna, yellowfin tuna and bigeye tuna but while they help to keep the skipjack away the albacore may not hit the larger sizes. Try to as a rule use darker color lures when trolling for yellowfin in the gray of dawn and as it gets brighter the lighter colors seem to be better choices. Also as it gets brighter try to keep the lure deeper. When the wind blows and it gets sloppy tuna feathers tend to spend to much time skipping across the surface and this may be a time try considering a jet head or a heavier tuna clone type jig.

Deep Sea Trolling For Albacore Tuna

Trolling For Albacore The down time between jig strikes when trolling for albacore can seem endless. There are many variables that can make or break a successful troll for albacore. In addition to lure selection and speed also having the lure at the right depth is also very important. There are different factors in choosing the lure best suited for certain situations. Style, color and size should all be considered. Albacore anglers should also remember the effect that ocean conditions and speed can have on how a lure tracks in the water. Crankbait type plugs such as large Rapalas and mirOlures are terrific as are the cedar plugs for tuna. However good they are when the seas are smooth they are very difficult to keep in the water in sloppy conditions. Best trolling speed is usually found between 6 and 7 ½ knots. Larger lures will draw bites from bluefin, yellowfin and bigeye tuna but while keeping the skipjack away the albacore may not hit the larger sizes. Try to as a rule use darker color lures when trolling for albacore in the gray of dawn and as it gets brighter the liter colors seem to be better choices. Also as it gets brighter try to keep the lure deeper. When the wind blows and it gets sloppy tuna feathers tend to spend to much time skipping across the surface and this may be a time try considering a jet head or a heavier tuna clone type jig.

* Target Depth Species On Jig Fishing

What I Catch on Jigging Technique.....

* Shimano Jigging Technique

Jigging Technique from a Drifting Boat

The Butterfly Jigging System uses tackle designed to attract and detect bites from even the most finicky of fish. It's an action/reaction system designed to allow you to savor the invigorating feel of every movement while retrieving the lure. The feel of the bite is similar to the feeling of electricity flowing through the rod with every movement of the fish exaggerated, due to the sensitivity of the tackle.
Follow These Steps :



1. Cast the Butterfly Jig down the current, wind, or drift direction.

2. Let the jig sink to the bottom.

3. Begin retrieving with jigging technique motion.

4. Retrieve the jig several yards from the bottom.

5. Let the jig sink to the bottom (Repeat steps 4&5 several times with each cast).

6. Once line is even, or under the boat, retrieve the jig and cast down the current or wind to start process over.

Butterfly - Regular/Flat-Side



Jigging Action: The Butterfly technique requires a precise motion to impart the right fish catching action to the jig. This technique works for both conventional and spinning tackle with the same results.
After the jig is dropped to the desired depth, the rod tip is facing down. With an upward circular motion, the rod tip will be lifted up on the upswing on the reel handle and lowered on the downstroke of the rotation. The reel retrieve is a tight circular motion that is close to the body with the rod butt held loosely under your left armpit. The distance in which the rod tip moves from top to bottom is approximately 10 to 20 inches depending on the desired lure action and retrieval speed. This technique will work on a fast or slow retrieve depending on how the fish are reacting.

Butterfly - Long



Jigging Action: The Butterfly Long Jig is a very productive lure and works well with the standard jigging technique outlined previously, as well as the following Long jig technique explained below.

The Long model jigging technique works with both spinning and conventional tackle. This technique requires the rod butt held loosely under your armpit depending on what type of tackle (spinning or conventional). After the jig reaches its desired depth, the rod tip is facing down. With an upward jerking motion, bring the rod tip up to the 11 o'clock position. Once up there, wind down taking up the slack in the line until it comes tight, which will lower the rod into the starting position then repeat as previously described. You can adjust the speed of retrieve depending on how the fish react.

Adopted From :
2008 Shimano, Inc. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED

* Monofilament Leaders For Fly Fishing

Image : zonaikankita.blogspot.com

Monofilament Leaders For Fly Fishing

Phil Genova1 and Ronald A. Howard Jr. 2

Leaders and their Purposes

Leaders serve as the connection between the heavy fly line and the light fly. They make the fly appear to be disconnected from the line appearing more natural and suitable as prey. They also carry the energy of the line to the fly, laying it out smoothly and fully extending it from the line. This is the primary reason for using a tapered leader made from relatively hard monofilament.
These monofilament leaders have three primary sections: a butt, a mid-section, and a tippet. The butt is constructed of heavier and stiffer materials to more smoothly transfer the energy of the line to the fly. It should be of a diameter and stiffness that will form a smooth arc with the tip of the line once they are tied together and bent between the hands. This provides a good transfer of energy to the leader and prevents hinging. The mid-section servers primarily as a transition or taper between the heavy materials of the butt and the lighter materials of the tippet. Since connecting strands of material over about 0.002-0.003 inch different in diameter may result in a weak knot, the taper takes the line down in steps, with each piece in the transition at least 6 inches or so long. It also continues the transmission of energy from the line to the tippet. The tippet is the thinnest and softest part of the leader. In most cases, it is connected to the fly directly, providing a thinner, less obvious (at least to us) connection between the line and the fly. It is generally about as long as the butt section.
A properly tied leader will allow the fly to be presented quietly, leading the fly out smoothly in a straight line from the line to the fly. This makes hooking fish easier and imparts casting accuracy. The tippet provides concealment for the fly and may result in more strikes from selective fish.
Sometimes it is necessary to provide a shock tippet or bite tippet to protect the leader from being cut by sharp teeth or gill plates. These tippets are usually short and constructed of heavy monofilament or either single strand or braided wire. They are usually attached to the tippet with an Albright knot (See Knots).
Choice of leader length, taper and tippet size depend upon fishing conditions, fly size, and personal preference. As a result, fly fishers must develop some experience before these choices come easily. As a rule, however, minor differences in leader length or tippet size have minimal impacts on angling success.
Remembering a few simple guidelines and keeping a basic selection of leader materials on hand will allow the angler to make changes on the water to meet current conditions.
In general, leaders should be about 50 to 60 percent butt section, 20 -30 percent mid-section or transition, and 10-30 percent tippet. IGFA rules require that the tippet section be a minimum of 18 inches long, but much longer tippets are advised when the leader material is light and the fly is very small. In that situation, the tippet becomes part of the cushioning at the end of the cast, assisting the tiny fly in landing delicately on the water. Since materials need to be about the same diameter, a leader may have lots of knots, and good line to line knots like the blood knot, surgeon=s knot or double nail knot are needed to maintain line strength. Leaders intended for surface fishing are most often from about 72 to 12 feet long, and well tied leaders up to 18 or 20 feet will behave well. For sub-surface fishing with a floating line, these same leaders may work well, but using a sinking line or sink tip line requires shorter leaders or the addition of a mini-lead head to avoid having the fly buoy up behind the tip of the line. Some fly fishers use leaders as short as 3-4 feet under those circumstances.
Freshwater trout leaders are often long and fine. Bass leaders tend to be much stouter, allowing the angler to pressure fish that are headed for trouble with snags. Saltwater leaders may have only 3 or 4 diameters, perhaps with the addition of a shock tippet. Tippet strength needs to be matched to the fly, the conditions, and the fish being taken. Size 28 midges will not fit 1X tippet material, and an 8X tippet would not turn over even a small bass bug without excessive force in the cast. Similarly, small stream trout may be handled easily with 4-6X tippets, but monster pike, false albacore, big bass in cover, or red drum may call for much heavier ones, perhaps as large as 0.013 or 0.015 as opposed to 0.004-0.006.
Mason, maker of hard nylon leader material, suggests the following formulas:
For 5-weight or lighter lines
Butt 0.019 - 18 inches, 0.018 - 18 inches, 0.016 - 18 inches, 0.015 0 18 inches
Mid-section 0.014 or 0.013 - 7 inches, 0.012 or 0.011 - 6 inches, 0.010 - 5 inches
Tippet 0.009 - 0.006 - 18 inches on terminal end (remember to step it down)
For 6-weight or heavier lines, insert an 18 inch section of 0.021 (0.023 with lines 9 weight or higher)
For heavier flies and larger fish
Butt 0.021 - 18 inches, 0.019 - 18 inches, 0.017 - 18 inches, 0.015 - 18 inches
Mid-section 0.014 - 12 inches, 0.013 - 12 inches
Tippet 0.012 - 18 inches
For light saltwater work
Butt 0.021 - 18 inches, 0l019 - 18 inches, 0.018 - 18 inches, 0.017 - 18 inches
Mid-section 0.016 - 12 inches, 0.015 - 12 inches
Tippet 0.014 - 18 inches
The Orvis Company has an excellent flyer with their leader-tie kits. It suggests that tippet size be adjusted to the fly being used. Note that each tippet size covers a range of hooks and that most hook sizes can be accommodated with several tippet sizes. For bulky or weighted flies, consider going up in tippet size.

Hook Size Tippet Size Hook Size Tippet Size
2-1/0 0X - 0.011 16-12 4X - 0.007
8-4 1X - 0.010 18-14 5X - 0.006
10-6 2X - 0.009 22-16 6X - 0.005
14-10 3X - 0.008 28-18 7X - 0.004


I have adapted the leader formulae in Notes to Fly Fishermen about Leaders by attaching a permanent 36 inch butt of either 0.021 or 0.023 material to my fly lines. Leaders from 72 to 12 or even 18 feet can be constructed on that butt. Pre-made leaders are carried in a leader wallet, but the materials to do some leader construction on the water are always present. Four examples of typical leaders are listed below.

72 foot Trout 9 foot Trout 12 foot Trout 9 foot Bass, Saltwater

3X 4X 6X Medium

24"-0.019 36"-0.021 36" - 0.021 40" - 0.021
16"-0.017 16"-0.019 24" - 0.019 26" - 0.019
14"-0.015 12"-0.017 16" - 0.017 22" - 0.017
6"-0.013 6"-0.015 12" - 0.015 20" - 0.015
6"-0.011 6"-0.013 7" - 0.013
6"-0.009 6"-0.011 7" - 0.011
18"-0.008 6"-0.009 7" - 0.009


Nearly any leader material manufacturer will provide some guidelines for tying leaders with their materials. Start with one of those suggestions, and modify the formulae to fit your line, casting style, and angling conditions.
While the sizes as designated by the X system are standardized, the flexibility, durability and strength of tippet material varies with the manufacturer and the formulation used in constructing it. Today=s leaders are made primarily of nylon monofilament or fluorocarbon materials. The formulas make them hard and stiff or soft and flexible. As you grow in experience as a fly fisher, you will develop preferences for materials to be used in the various parts of your leaders and for different conditions. Fluorocarbon leaders are much more transparent than nylon, and they are heavier than water, so they sink and have lower visibility. Nylon leaders are much less expensive and suitable for most situations. They also have a bit more stretch, letting them give a bit under sudden pressure. Try them and see what you like, but learn to tie your own.

Adopted From National 4-H Sport Fishing Programs

Download Monofilament Leaders For Fly Fishing Article

* Basic Tying

Tying

Flies
The object of fly-fishing is to fool the fish into thinking the fly is its natural prey. Flies imitate the foods fish eat in size, color, and shape. Flies can be made or bought in different sizes and patterns. The ones you choose will depend on what fish are feeding. Choose medium hook sizes (8-16) to start.

Surface Flies
Surface flies float. The fascinating thing about fishing with a fly on the water surface is that you can see when a fish comes up and bites it. Dry flies, terrestrials, and bugs are all surface flies.




Dry Flies
Dry flies imitate adult aquatic insects, especially mayflies, caddisflies, stoneflies, midges, and terrestrials. They are used mostly for trout, but other fish such as bass and panfish will strike a dry fly too. Some common flies are Hendrickson’s, pale evening duns, Adams, and elk hair caddis.


Terrestrials
Terrestrial flies imitate ants, beetles, spiders, caterpillars, crickets, grasshoppers, and other insects that live on the land and sometimes fall into the water. Twitch these flies to make them look like struggling insects. Look in the grass for the most common insects before choosing these flies.



Bugs
Bugs include poppers, divers, and sliders. Twitch these flies forward little by little to disturb the water and attract fish. They imitate large insects, frogs, or mice. Dahlberg divers and frog imitations are good for bass and northern pike. Smaller rubber legged poppers work well for panfish.



Sinking Flies
Sinking flies are made with heavy or absorbent materials so that they sink. Sinking flies include nymphs, wet flies, and streamers.


Nymphs
Nymphs imitate immature insects that live underwater. Nymphs are a big part of many fishes diets, including trout, bass, and panfish. Nymphs often catch fish when nothing else does. Hare’s ear and pheasant tail nymphs are good in a basic fly box.


Wet Flies
These were probably the first kind of fly ever made. They are made of materials that become waterlogged quickly and sink, so they look like drowned insects and sometimes baitfish. Try a woolly worm in your fly box.


Streamers
Larger predator fish, such as pike, muskies, large trout, and bass, are attracted to streamers because they look like baitfish. Retrieve these flies with a jerking motion to make them mimic swimming fish. Muddler or Clouser minnows, woolly buggers, and Mickey Finns are good basic streamers.



Specialty Flies
These are flies made for special situations. A fish-egg fly works in spawning season to catch rainbow trout. Crayfish flies work in summer when smallmouth bass are gobbling crayfish.


What Can I Catch?
Fly-fishing is not just for trout. Fly-fishing can be used to catch a variety of fish but works best to catch fish that feed by sight.


Read More The Articel
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Adapted From Minessota Fly Fishing Basic
* First Articel
* Second Articel

* Catch-and-Release

You may choose to keep some of the fish you catch for dinner (see the Minnesota Fishing Regulations booklet for seasons and limits) or release them so they can reproduce, grow, and be caught again.
How you land your fish will determine if it is able to survive when you return it to the water. Play the fish quickly and bring it to the shore or boat. Keep the fish in the water if possible and carefully remove the hook. Wet your hands before touching or lifting the fish to protect their slime coating. Hold it horizontally above the water for only a short time for viewing. Have your camera ready for photos.
To release a fish, cradle it in your hand in calm water, heading upstream if in a river, and move it gently from side to side until it is ready to navigate on its own. If a fish is hooked deeply, leave the hook in the fish and cut the line several inches above the hook.

Adopted From Minessota Fly Fishing Basic

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* Fish Handling In Fly Fishing

Fish Handling In Fly Fishing

Handling fish properly protects both you and the fish. Some fish have sharp fins or teeth that can cut you if you don’t hold
them correctly. Thus, different fish species need to be handled in different ways. Hold some fish by the jaw, such as bass or
trout, and others along the body, such as a catfish. Learn by watching an experienced angler, but keep the following rules
in mind:
1. Always wet your hands first before handling fish. Wet hands are less likely to damage the protective coating of mucous
on the outside of the fish. This slimy layer helps protect the fish’s skin from disease and makes it glide easily in the water.

2. Don’t allow fish to flop around on the bank, the dock, or the floor of the boat. If keeping fish, put them on ice or in a
bucket of cool water.

3. If you are not keeping the fish, take the fish off the hook as soon as possible. Gently lower it into the water until it
begins to swim away. If it isn’t ready to swim, you may need to slowly swish it in the water first. Remember, no fish is a
“junk” or “trash” fish. All fish play important roles in the aquatic ecosystem.

4. If you are not keeping the fish, using barbless hooks can make it easier to take the fish off the hook.


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* Simple Knot Guide In Fly Fishing

Simple Knot Guide In Fly Fishing

Improved Clinch Knot
An “old standby” known as the fisherman’s knot.

1. Pass the line through the hook eye and,
with the tag end, make 5 turns around the standing line.

2. Insert the loose end of the line between
the eye and the first loop formed.

3. Bring the end through the large second
loop formed.


4. Wet the line and tighten the knot slowly
while holding the loose end of the line end
between thumb and index finger so the
knot is partly closed before it’s secured
against the eye.

Clip the loose end of the line.


Palomar Knot
The easiest to tie and the strongest knot known
to hold terminal tackle.

1. Double 4 inches of line to form a loop and
pass the loop through the eye of the fishing
hook. Let the hook hang loose.

2. Tie an overhand knot in the doubled line.
Don’t twist or tighten line.

3. Pull the loop far enough to pass it completely
over the hook.

4. Wet the line.

5. Hold the hook carefully, and pull the loose
end with the standing line slowly to tighten
the loose end.


Koch Knot

A my favorite knot when teaching beginning fly
fishers to attach the fly. It is easy to tie and can
be done quickly. Always remember to lubricate
the knot well with saliva or water before
“snugging” it down. Doing this eliminates the
heat produced by the friction created when
you tighten the knot, keeping the monofilament
strong.