* Effective Walleye Fly Patterns

Although commonly thought of as a "warm water" species, walleye also thrive in cool northern rivers. Considered one of the most tasty of freshwater sport fish, it can be pursued with the fly rod. Commonly it is fished for with live bait such as minnows and spinning type lures and spoons, however the walleye does prey on aquatic insects and other life that can be imitated by a variety of fly patterns.

Walleye Caught By Kade MacKenzie, Athabasica River

It's "warm water" designation is not completely correct. Some States such as New Mexico list this fish (that was once called "pickerel" in Ontario, Canada) as a warm water species, while the State of Pennsylvania considers it a "cool water" species. In fact, it's temperature range is between roughly 6.6C and 15.5C, with the median value of about 11C an ideal temperature.

Contrast that with the Brown Trout who's temperature range is much broader at between about 6.7C and 23.9C. With this in mind, the Walleye would seem to be even more of a cold water fish than the Brown, often considered to be an inhabitant of crystal clear cold rivers and streams. It may interest some to know that the Brown Trout can tolerate temperatures higher than the the Walleye can.

Although it is not often pursued by the fly angler, it can be caught on a variety of fly patterns either as an incidental catch or when a fly angler specifically targets the species. Most freshwater Walleye anglers know that this fish is a voracious eater of live bait and anglers who specifically target this fish generally use live minnows on their hooks to catch them. With this in mind, we can know as fly anglers what types of patterns are more likely to attract a Walleye.

However, it is not just other fish that Walleye eat. In a study by John R. M. Kelso, Department of Zoology, at the University of Manitoba, all the Walleye that were examined were found to have Gammarus lacustris in their stomachs. What are Gammarus lacustris? These are scuds that many fly anglers will attempt to imitate when fly fishing for rainbow and other trouts.

So we know that using scud patterns is a good bet for targeting Walleye on the fly rod.

However, keeping in mind what most freshwater anglers know about fishing for these species; that they will readily take live bait, the fly angler should try those streamer patterns that imitate local fish that Walleye eat. Walleye will feast on young smolts and any fly pattern that represents these can be effective on Walleye.

In my own experience, fishing the very cold waters of the Athabasca River (which originates in the mountains of Alberta from glacier ice melt and snow runoff), Walleye readily took to leech patterns such as the Viva Zonker and Black Rabbit Strip Leech. Weighted and tied up in a "beefy" style, it is quite possible to consider the Walleye did not see these patterns as leeches, but as small fish.

Whatever the Walleye thought, it was a lot of fun catching this species on the fly rod! And if you're a fly angler and your buddies are heading out with their live bait to target Walleye, don't hesitate to join them and bring along your fly rod.

Many people have the misconception that fly fishing is for trout and salmon only. In fact, there are a number of fly fishing techniques that you can use to catch a wide variety of different fish while using the fly rod!

Source : http://about-flyfishing.com/library/weekly/walleye-fly-fishing-patterns.html

* Fly Fishing - Catskill Arts Of The Angling Show

The Center of Fly Fishing, Livingston Manor, NY. The Catskill Fly Fishing Center and Museum will hold the Fourth Annual Arts of the Angler Show at the Ethan Allen Inn, in Danbury CT on Saturday and Sunday, November 6 & 7, 2010. This unique show combines the finest in vintage collectibles and contemporary fly fishing ‘arts’. It has been regarded as of the largest of its kind in the USA. In addition to the show featuring the ‘arts and crafts of the angler: bamboo rod making, fly tying, books, and artwork, a live consignment auction of collectibles will be held after a special priced dinner on Saturday evening. (Accepting consignments now). And returning will be the popular Book Exchange (the CFFCM will sell your books, bring them and enjoy the show).

Joining over 30 great fly tyers who provide non stop fly tying demonstrations through out the show will be recognized bamboo rodmakers: David Van Burgel, Per Brandin, Marc Aroner, John Gallas, Jim Downes, Kathy Scott, Kelly Baker, among others. Not only will visitors see the best in today’s cane fishing rods available will be the widest selection of used and collectible classics from a selection of vendors. (Vendor Space is limite

The Ethan Allen Inn is centrally located at Exit 4 on Interstate Route 84 in Danbury CT. This venue provides an elegant yet casual setting for a fine show.

For more detailed information on the Arts of the Angler Show, follow the changing details here on this sponsoring website or visit the Catskill Fly Fishing Center and Museum Facebook Fan Page or website www.cffcm.net

Its all about fly fishing.


Contact: Erin or Pat, CFFCM 845-439-4810, flyfish@catskill.net

Article Source : http://about-flyfishing.com/library/weekly/catskill-art-of-angler.html

* Trolling Barracuda

. A surface feeder the barracuda is rarely caught deeper than 100 feet. The main diet is anchovies and other small fishes and large barracuda are very rare with 5 to 10 pounds most common. Most barracuda are caught with either hard lure like rapala. When using hard lures be prepared to loose a lot of rigs to the barracudas razor sharp teeth. When using bait either line or use a sliding sinker. A lot of bait fisherman use a wire leader with the only drawback being less bites. Hard lures are typically cast out and retrieved slowly with a change of speed often getting a strike by the barracuda. When fishing hard lure for barracuda the most often used colors are most beautiful and light colors combination or have chrome in them .Please use barb hook type as treble hooks do damage to the barracudas mouth. The barracuda is a great conservation story and releasing short fish with damaged mouths will not help their future. A good trolling for fishing barracuda would be from 6.5 feet to 8 feet with a reel able to handle 200 yards of 20 to 30# test.

The French Nymphing Method – A new approach to an old problem when fly fishing

Author: She's So Fly

This technique and rig is a relatively new approach to an old problem – spooky fish. The more you fish with it, the more you will see its potential.

French fly fishers developed this new nymphing technique during the World Fly Fishing Championship held on their home turf several years ago. The rivers were low and clear, and the fish were skittish.

The key to French Nymphing is contact with the flies, and ultimately the fish. You maintain contact with the flies by extending and elevating our arm and rod at the completion of the cast and never letting the leader touch the water.

Maintain line tension by leading the flies with the rod, keeping the coiled mono section just above the surface. When a fish hits the fly, the coils react by extending. Set the hook. If there's no take, finish the quick-set motion with a back cast. This loads the rod for the next presentation.

Since the leader and slinky are elevated, you have a huge advantage over traditional indicator techniques where the line sites on the water.

While French Nymphing, there is no slack in the line, and a minimal distance to move the rod for an immediate set. Furthermore, you can anticipate a trout's instinctive reaction by allowing your flies to sink for 3 to 4 seconds, then lifting slowly to cast again.

French Nymping is best done directly upstream or with up-and-across casts. It works in a variety of river conditions, but shines in riffles and runs 2 to 5 feet deep.

French Nymphing Rig:

Super long leaders that are had tied and boiled to make then very supple. Their leaders will average 12 to 25 feet long depending on the conditions.

The rods are usually 10 to 14 feet in length to make fishing this long of a leader a lot easier.

Leader:

The entire leader includes 3 basic parts: tapered leader, slinky (coil) and tippet.

The system's main component, the leader requires some explanation. The leader's length is typically 12 to 25 feet. A typical leader knotted to the welded loop in the fly line might consist of a thick butt section of about 4 feet of 25-lb or heavier test monofilament of a stiff variety. The material's diameter must be equal to or slightly larger than the butt material in the next leader segment. The stiff material will facilitate energy transfer during the cast.

The next part of the leader is the sighter - slinky (coiled mono section). Always carry fly floatant or silicone (green tub) Mucillin. Greasing the spring-like coils helps it float as an indicator in slower, deeper water, where you can't French Nymph effectively

After the sighter, a long length of level fluorocarbon leader actually presents the flies underwater. For this example, consider using a 6-foot length of 5X (0.006-inch) diameter material. Approximately 18 inches from the terminal end; attach a 4-inch long dropper tag using a Triple Surgeon's knot. Future articles will discuss the rigging's knots that employ the Davy Wotton knotting scheme along with the Triple Surgeon's knot.

Flies:

Use one or two flies with this technique. The flies should be weighted, slim and designed to sink fast.

Mono Coil Recipe:

You must cook your mono to make it coil. Ingredients include a plastic ballpoint pen, duct tape or rubber bands, and an assortment of different colored mono lines.

Simply wrap 15 to 20 pound test monofilament tightly around the empty pen tube and tape it at each end (rubber bands work too). Leave several inches of straight line off each end to make connecting it to your leader and tippet easier.

Submerge the wraps into a pot of boiling water for 5 minutes. Remove and place them immediately in the freezer overnight to help set the coiled memory.

Final Thoughts:

Building a French Nymphing leader is simpe and there are unlimited variations in color, length, and test. This coil leader system is not just for French Nymphing. Experiment and have fun, that's what fishing is all about.

Tight lines, and fun times, Shes So Fly

Article Source: http://www.articlesbase.com/fishing-articles/the-french-nymphing-method-a-new-approach-to-an-old-problem-when-fly-fishing-4112672.html

About the Author

shessofly.com

* Line Weighing

Image newrayann.com

Line Weighing
The Key to Your Jig Fishing Success

Fishing is a sport that's relaxing and based on friendship, but when it gets a little competitive, start stringing up your jig stick! Jig fishing has a tendency to separate the best anglers from the rest, and it tends to separate the big fish from the little ones. Fish instinctively understand what can or cannot fit down their gullets. A small fish that's been eating well is usually not interested to attack and digest a bulky jig. Big fish, on the other hand, prefer a bulky meal that a jig represents to them. Five fish caught on jigs will be bigger than five fish caught on any other type of lure. Still, jig fishing is a difficult skill, and it takes a lot of effort even for a jig master to drill out those five fish. It's not easy!

A jig is not a lure for open water or unobstructed bottom. Jig fishing is usually done in something - heavy weed or wood cover, flooded brush, sunken tree tops, rock rubble, cypress knees, tulle berms, etc. The snaggier, the better. Even in open areas, a jig will do best when it contacts small, isolated pieces of cover or slightly rougher bottom patches.

A jig is first and foremost, a drop bait. Jig fishing in shallow water (0 to 6 feet) gets you many fish on the drop before the jig even hits the bottom. If the jig is not accosted on the way down, just let it lay motionless for a while. Fish cannot stand this and will pick the jig off the bottom as it lays there. Still no hit? Jiggle it around without moving it forward - and let it lay motionless again. Repeat the jiggle and pause once or twice, then wind it in and drop it in another spot. It really doesn't pay to try to work it across the bottom in shallow cover. If the fish did not hit you on the way down or on the pause between jiggles, it's probably not going to hit you as you swim or drag it back across bottom. So just wind it in quick and drop it in another spot. The initial drop is the key. The jig has lots of visible and audible appeal as it drops. And yes, use liberal doses of fish attractant. Rattles are optional. With or without rattles. I am happy with my catches.

Jig fishing in deeper water is different. You can cast it out away from you, and reel it steadily across bottom until it bounces into any sort of underwater cover. Once you contact cover, stop reeling and just jiggle and bumble the jig all into the cover while hardly moving it forward at all. Still use the jiggle and pause tactic, and expect to get picked up on the pause. In deep water, you will get fish that whack you when you reel up to make another cast. So always let the jig hang suspended for a moment when you reel up all the way. When you get six feet off the bottom, jiggle it as it hangs there and see if you get bit. No takers? Just reel up and cast again.

The key to detecting bites in either shallow or deep water is to always know what your line weighs. As an alternative, you could become a line watcher which means to stare intently at the line where it enters the water. If you see the line twitch, streak off to the side or any other unusual movement in the line, it means a fish is toying with your jig. In the long run, however, you will become a better jig fisherman if you learn to line weigh rather than line watch. Let's talk about this.

You should know what your jig feels like at all times:

• When it drops

• When it rests on the bottom

• When you are lifting it up off bottom

Your jig can never feel any different than it is - it will always feel the same. Sometimes wind can encumber your feel. In wind, you may need to upsize the jig weight to retain its feel.

If you ever feel anything different, it can only ever be one of two things:

1. You are or will soon be snagged

2. Or a fish has the jig!

Now, you often hear advice that if you feel anything different, you should heroically haul off and set the hook. But if you do that, you will have a snag more often than you have a fish. What to do? Load increasingly steady but slight tension onto the line and rod tip by drawing the tip up or reeling in ever so slowly. If it is a snag, you will feel a lack of life, and you should back off to try to work yourself out of the snag before you get snagged too deeply. If it is a fish, you will feel one of two things:

1. Weightlessness. Absolutely nothing. Like your jig is floating in space. Reel in to get slack out of the line until you feel weight, load the rod tip, then whack away!

2. Vibrancy. Some feeling of life. Trust me, you'll instinctively know it's a live feeling of some sort on your line even if it is indescribable to put into words. Reel in just enough to begin loading the rod tip and whack away!

If you believe you had a fish on, but it spit the bait before you can whack it, JUST LEAVE THE BAIT THERE. You can usually jiggle it a bit and they will often pick it up again. Then whack them ASAP! Largemouth may come back once. Smallies may give you numerous chances.

So that's called line weighing, and it is a better and more reliable skill to learn than line watching.

Line weighing is the key to jig fishing success.

Source : http://www.bassdozer.com/articles/jig-fishing.shtml

* Barramundi Fishing in Thailand

Image From : barralodge.com.au

Barramundi Fishing in Thailand - An Amazing Days Fishing for the
Ultimate Predator
By Jason Butler

Firstly, I have to admit my ignorance, when I was told that
there were Barramundi in Thailand I was very surprised. Thinking
they were only native to Australia, it was pointed out to me
that these fish in fact populate many freshwater lakes
throughout Asia. So I went along to Bor Num Lake with a friend
of mine (John); who is also a keen angler and has been living in
Bangkok for over thirteen years.

The lake is actually called Bor Num Barramundi fishing park,
and the ticket for the day cost 100 Thai baht (approx 2 British
pounds or 3 US dollars), excellent value for money. It is
possible to hire spinning rods and tackle for an additional 100
baht per person. Bor Num Lake also offers the chance to try your
hand at fly fishing; the price is the same which ever code of
fishing is chosen. It was suggested to us that we use lures when
fishing for the barramundi, we were in total agreement -lure
fishing always appeals- as the action and excitement is second
to none when fishing for predators using this system.

It turns out that fishing for barramundi is extremely popular
amongst Thais, especially at the weekends where many come to
enjoy the fishing activities. Though catching and eating your
quarry is something that has never appealed to me, many anglers
here, Thais and foreigners alike do. You can enjoy these fish in
the restaurant for -an additional cost- if you so wish, the fish
is prepared by the local chefs to your taste (the lake is
frequently stocked, to counter the fish taken for the pot).You
can always put the fish back if this is not your bag.

There is not much protection from the sun here, so one must
stay well covered up as the sun will easily nuke the skin, even
sun block struggles to keep the rays at bay. So a good hat and a
long sleeved shirt are the order of the day.

The staff were very friendly giving us plenty of tips and
advice, without which I feel we may have struggle to catch; when
fishing here one needs to use different techniques than when at
home fishing.

The Barramundi have been farmed commercially in lakes here in
Thailand for over twenty years, they are extremely aggressive
hunters and when hooked give one serious fight. Usually clearing
the water with energetically charged leaps, which causes large
splashes as they land again, bringing the angler much approved
applause and cheer from the local observers.

We found that poppers with a fly attached to a 30lb leader
proved to be the most successful lures (as recommended by the
guide). Barramundi have a sharp gill plate and the larger fish
can cut through 40lb Fluorocarbon shock leader in one swipe. We
used bait casting rods 6 feet in length and bait casting reels
which are used specifically for lure fishing (they look very
much like multiplying reels).

The lake is not a fish farm and it is quite easy to blank here
if the wrong methods are used, but if you get it right a
fantastic day will be had. The fish do vary in size form 1kg
(2.2lb) up to and beyond 10kg (22lbs).

Unbelievably the first cast of the day resulted in John hitting
into a monster, with in seconds this Barramundi leapt clear of
the water creating much excitement in the camp (the guide
pointing out that when the fish breaches the water, it is best
to lower the tip of the rod, so as not to give the fish too much
chance of shedding the hook) John then proceeded to wrestle for
a further five minutes with his quarry, again the magnificent
barramundi cleared the water several more times before finally
subduing to the net. A 4.8kg fish on the first cast and about
twenty more in total, not bad at all for a couple of beginners.
A few tips:-

It is debatable whether to use a tour company or not. If you
are confident of finding your way and have your own transport
then it is not essential to pay the extra for a tour company.
The staff at Born Num is very experienced and probably knows
more about their water than the guides from agencies.

If live bait fishing you must buy out the fish, you can not
catch and release when live baiting due to the almost guaranteed
take.

A small tip is appreciated but not compulsory for the guides at
Bor Num – we gave B100 tip for good service all day
The guides are kept very bust usually looking after 5 or 6
anglers at a time.

Food and drinks are ordered via the guide, so you do not have
to leave the waters edge.
Toilets are not European Style, but clean.

There is a very friendly atmosphere and the local fishermen are
only too willing to help, giving friendly advice and tips
without being too intrusive.

So all in all a fantastic day was had by all and we became
hooked ourselves and will certainly be returning to Bor Num very
soon.

About the Author: Jason Butler is a free lance writer. He is
currently residing in Thailand and enjoying life. Writing
articles on Fishing and Steam engine models is a passion of his.
He is also a scuba Diving Instructor with over ten years
experience. http://www.john-tom.com/
http://jason-stealinrubies.blogspot.com/

Source: http://www.isnare.com

Permanent Link: http://www.isnare.com/?aid=326280&ca=Recreation

image from : sandrawieczorek.com

Saltwater Trolling For Tuna

Author: Daniel Eggertsen

Whenever you are trolling for tuna there are a few tips on how to catch tuna that will help you considerably.



Once you have gotten the proper permits or licenses, and have all your safety gear and inspections out of the way, you are ready for some serious tuna fishing! Just make plans to stay out on the water from just before sunrise until dark, because tuna bite best very early and from sunset until dark.



When it comes to bait, the preferred bait for tuna changes daily. Bring spreader bars in all the colors you can and in various sizes. Every color of tuna train, teaser birds, lures, and multiple sized ballyhoo rigged with teasers. If you are trolling for giant tuna, begin with a thirteen inch squid spreader bars and move to smaller squid set ups if you are not having any luck.



On rough days, you might want to consider trolling in the trough. This will keep your rigs and baits from flying out of the water and looking less than natural to the tuna. You might not be in for as comfy a ride, but you will be able to catch fish this way. Consider using red or yellow line to help you see and identify your line. This has not been known to inhibit the bite in any way.



Never touch your bait or line with bare hands. Rub all your leaders with alcohol before you use them, and wear surgical gloves when baiting your hook. Use some floss to sew some squid tentacles onto the hook of every single bait. You can also use shmeg or pork rinds on your stinger in a pinch. Many fish are lost after you hook them and get them to the boat, when they run under the boat and get away. Just make sure your trim tabs are always up all the way while putting your riggers.



Change your trolling speed depending on what you are after. From five to just over five knots is best for medium sized bluefin tuna. Three to Four knots is best for giant tuna.

Look for the whales. If you can spot whales, you will find tuna nearby. The truth is, they are all looking for forage. Whales are the best hunters in the sea, and the tuna follow them wherever they go in hopes of finding food. Drag rigs right in front of the whales for good results.



If you see a feeding frenzy, fish the outer edges of it. Don't get right over the fish, but give them room to bust. The largest tuna will be at the edges of the frenzy, and you can pick them up there.



Try to fish quiet areas where you see signs of the tuna being present. Heavily fished areas are actually the most difficult to catch in.Try to fish on the Southern or Western winds, and don't fish on the full or new moon, for best results when it comes to fishing for tuna.

About the Author:

Dan Eggertsen is a fishing researcher and enthusiast who is committed to providing the best saltwater fishing information possible. Get more information on saltwater trolling here: http://www.asksaltwaterfishing.com/

Article Source: http://www.articlesbase.com/sports-and-fitness-articles/saltwater-trolling-for-tuna-566532.html

image : boatus.com

Shimano Trevala and Other Shimano Rods Make Butterfly Jigging Easy

Author: Robert Feuring

The system of butterfly jigging started in Japan during the year 1990. This was developed to reel in blue fin tuna up to a depth of 500 feet. This certain fishing system is known as "butterfly jigging" since the lure of the rod has distinct butterfly-like and zigzag motions under the water. This one-of-a-kind motion is the reason why butterfly jigging is capable of attracting huge groups of fishes. Since jigging requires a special kind of fishing rods, you need to use unique and durable rods. When looking into the market, opt for Shimano Trevala, which are designed specially for butterfly jigging.



The Concept of Butterfly Jigging with Shimano Trevala Jigging Rods



Shimano Trevala rods are among the perfect fishing rods that are used specifically for butterfly jigging. Some Shimano rods, which allow jig fishing, present the fishes with vertical profile. The jigs are developed in such a way that they attract and catch fishes even from a distance or depth of 150 feet or more. Shimano Trevala rods have jigs that drop instantly to the ocean's bottom with one swinging motion. The color and the shape of the jigs are similar to certain fish species, which are being consumed by the bottom feeders of the sea. The lively motion of the jigs of Shimano Trevala and other jigging rods in the industry is called action/reaction. This implies that the rod's jig does not only attract fishes that are searching for food, it also tends to make other fishes attack due to the sudden movements of the jig.



The Beginning of the Shimano Rods



The start of the company that makes Shimano rods happened in Osaka, Japan, in the year 1921. But it was only in the year 1970 that the corporation started making fishing rods and launching it for the use of the people. After releasing its first models of fishing rods, the company has been able to build a good reputation for itself. What is more, it has come up with better versions of its rods each passing year. Among the unique designs of the company are the Shimano Trevala series, which are great for butterfly jigging. As a matter of fact, the Shimano Trevala jigging rods are considered as among the world's widely used systems for butterfly jigging.



Butterfly Jigging Is More Effective with Shimano Trevala Rods



The Shimano Trevala rods, which are used for jigging, are specifically designed and created to eliminate the difficult of fishing even at great water depths. These special rods let anglers or fishermen feel each movement of the rod as they are reeling in the lure. The Shimano Trevala jigging rods amplify each lure movement to enable you to judge accurately each motion and action of the fish that gets caught in the bait. There are several fishing rods from the manufacturer that allows you to set up your own system for butterfly jigging. The best fishing rods that you can utilize for heavy-duty preparations are Shimano Trevala and its F rod series. These rods can be used in combination with patented reels and jigs from the company in order for you to complete your jigging system.



If you want to know which reel or jig is perfect for your Shimano rod, you can visit Sea Isle Tackle. This online dealer offers fishing equipment from different manufacturers such Penn and Shimano.

About the Author:
Visit Sea Isle Tackle online. We offer a great selection of Jigging Rods, including the Shimano Trevala. In addition to Shimano Trevala Jigging Rods, we offer a full collection of Shimano Rods.

Article Source: ArticlesBase.com - Shimano Trevala and Other Shimano Rods Make Butterfly Jigging Easy

image from : premierbeachproperties.com

The Right Way to Choose the Perfect Fishing Trip Destination

Author: Greg F Williams

One of the best things you must do to design a great angling trip is to distinguish your priorities. You require to be more specified than just saying you want special fishing trip. Great fishing may mean opposite things to for each one person in your fishing company.

One individual might be glad with taking seven fish per day, while others might be looking for 30 fish per hour. So, you want to determine this up foremost.

Let us take look at some of the most essential things to look at when deciding where to go on your fishing trip.

What type of fish do you are you wishing to catch?

While this may appear transparent, it is something that wants to be talked about. One individual may want to fish for walleye and northern pike, while others may want to go bass fishing. Since some northern lakes have water too frozen for bass, you may finish up at a lake that would really disappoint the bass fisherman.

Do you wish for tons of activity? Or trophy fish?

Some anglers just enjoy catching lots of fish with the hope of getting a few large ones. Other fishermen would rather give up catching a great amount of fish for a better opportunity at catching the biggest fish they can find. You need to make up one's mind which is more important to your fishing group... lots of fish that perhaps aren't the biggest or fewer fish but a bigger opportunity of a really big one.

It should be mentioned that there are many places where you can do both... catch heaps of fish and get tremendous huge ones. But, these tend to be at the more distant and high-priced lodges and are not always doable for many fishing groups.

How are you going to catch your fish?

Do you like to troll? Or drift? Fish in flows? Deep water fish?

We have seen individuals trolling in 60 ft of water thinking the fish were only a few feet from the surface of the water. Not much chance of getting anything this way. Be sure you know the type of fishing your group prefers and that the lake will provide it.

What do you require to expend for this fishing trip?

The price you're ready to pay will have a huge impact on the type of fishing trip you will have.

Be pragmatic. How much do you really want to expend? Are you comfortable to camp or tar-paper hut on a lake with great sport fishing?

Or would you favour staying at a more upscale fishing inn?

Do you want to cook for yourself... or do you want the fishing camp to do the cooking?

And what about shower installations? Are you prepared to use a community shower bath or do you want a private shower and bathing tub in your own cabin. Gentlemen, if you're taking your better half on this trip, make utterly sure you consider this one! If you do not, it could screw up an otherwise great trip.

Other things to think about are how lengthy the trip will be and the type of fish you are wanting to catch. A trip to a fishing hostelry on a lake with pan fish and bass will in all probability be much cheaper that a trip to Alaska or Northern Canada for arctic charge.

So, if you in truth want a great fishing trip, begin by planning just precisely what you wish out of the trip and how much you are happy to spend. Do it the right way and you will have the fishing trip of a lifetime.

About the Author:

For more Free advice on Fly Fishing try visiting Greg F Williams Site Fly Fishing Mastery. A popular website that provides more advice on fly fishing reels, fly fishing rods, fly fishing tackle, fishing accessories and Fly Fishing Tips. You can get a unique content version of this article.

Article Source: http://www.articlesbase.com/fishing-articles/the-right-way-to-choose-the-perfect-fishing-trip-destination-596147.html

* Crappie Fishing Jig

image : cbcoutdoors.blogspot.com

crappie fishing jigs
By mark fleagle


Crappie fishing jigs – What To Choose

How many times when you have been out fishing have you wondered what crappie fishing jig to use? There are so many types, sizes, colors to select from it is easy to get confused. Well let me explain exactly what a crappie fishing jig is , What crappie jig type to use for different situations, and what color to use.

#1 Crappie Fishing jigs what is it? The crappie jig is made up of the two parts, the first part has a hook with a sinker molded too it. The second part is the body and it is made up of a Varity of different items, plastics for curly tails, some type of hair or bristle for marabou jigs, add a spoon or blade to a marabou jig and you have a rooster tail.

#2 Crappie Fishing jigs Purpose? The crappie jig is use where you want to create a vertical jerky motion to attract the attention of the fish. Do not get jigging confused with spinner baits, spinners create a horizontal motion through the whereas, jigs create a vertical motion up and down through the water.

#3 Crappie Fishing jigs How do you choose? Well I wish I could say that it is totally cut and dry what to use for different situations but a lot of selection is trial and error. It is good to keep a log , so you know what works under different situations. This will give you a starting point for your next fishing trip. Most often the color, depth water , and water clarity can change the color of the jig in the water. Also, the weather conditions can change your selection. For example if it is a sunny or light sky day you would want to select light color jigs. If it over cast and a dark sky you would want to use dark color jigs. These selections are not set in stone. You will probably end up changing colors many times throughout the day

#4 Crappie Fishing jigs types? There mainly three types of crappie fishing jigs. Curly tail jigs, Marabou jigs, and Rooster tail jigs. Curly tail jigs come in a multiple of designs but the all have some type of tail and are made of plastic. Marabou jigs are made of some type of bristle or hair and also come in multiple designs and colors. Rooster tail jigs are a marabou jig with a rotating blade or spoon added.

Well folks lets get to fishing P.S If you want to catch some giant slabs use the listed crappie fishing jigs.


Mark Fleagle
Crappie fishing tips and information
http://www.oldfishinghole.com

Mark Fleagle Author A well respected fishing specialist with 30+ years of fishing experience,who has written many fishing articles. Mark has been a online presence for fishing information for going on 4 years. my site: http://www.oldfishinghole.com Get your free copy of "78 Fishing Discoveries Unleashed".

Article Source: http://www.free-articles-zone.com

Trolling Therminology

Trolling is the name given to the type of fishing in which a natural or artificial bait, fitted with hooks, is towed from a line
attached to a moving boat. The appearance and motion of the bait is intended to excite carnivorous fish into attacking it, and
becoming hooked. This fishing method therefore aims to catch predatory fish, that is the types of fish which chase and eat other
fish.



Trolling is a fishing method which is carried out all over
the world, for commercial and recreational purposes. There
are many variations to the equipment and techniques used.
Trolling may be carried out at high speed, so that the
fisherman can cover a large fishing area, or slowly, so as to
avoid outrunning the fish. The lines may be of light, synthetic
material for invisibility, or may be of heavy wire and cable
for strength and resistance to cutting. The bait may be towed
at the surface, or may be trolled using weights or other
equipment to carry it down into deep water. The way in which
trolling is performed depends on local conditions, the species
sought, and their behaviour and physical characteristics.



There are, however, many tricks, tips and simple types of trolling equipment that are still known only to a small proportion
of troll fishermen. Some of these are recent innovations; others have been in use for years in certain areas but have never spread
further afield. In this book, we have tried to incorporate as many of these fishing tips as possible. We hope that all troll fishermen
will be able to find something new here, and use it to improve their fishing operations.



Adopted From Wikipedia

* Trolling Fly Lines

image from : flyfishusa.com

This Under Utilized Technique May be One of the Most Successful: Trolling Fly Lines

Author: Craig Mumby

This under rated trolling technique may be one of the most successful…





By Craig Mumby





If there is one technique that not many people consider when heading to the lake it’s trolling fly lines and it can produce some of the best fishing imaginable. This technique hasn’t had a real chance to prove itself as fly fishermen don’t do it often because a lot of the joy comes from casting and using finesse to persuade the fish to bite. If they’re going to troll why not just break out the spinning or bait-casting gear. On the other side of the coin, non-fly fishermen tend to be intimidated by fly rods and think that it’s both expensive and difficult to learn. Truth be told you can get a fly rod for a very reasonable price these days and it’s actually fairly simple to pick up the basics with minimal practice. More expensive gear and different casting techniques comes with experience, but for this technique you don’t need either. You don’t even need to know how to cast!


There are a wide variety of fish you can target with this method. It is a great technique for all trout species, even early and late season lake trout. But also bass, walleye, pike and pretty much anything else that swims in under 25ft. of water can be fished this way. For me, this is the single most consistent method for catching still water trout.





Go get yourself a fly rod and as I said it doesn’t have to be an expensive outfit though there are certain advantages to things like multiplier, or large arbour reels, as the retrieve ratio is greater and you will be able to gain line quicker on a fish running toward the boat. A standard 9 ft. rod is perfect; anywhere from a 5 weight to a 7 weight are ideal in most situations, but if you’re looking for bigger fish go with a heavier weight; lighter for smaller fish. Personally I like to use a 7 weight because it has enough backbone to work a variety of baits. There is a wide variety of line on the market and the body of water you’re fishing should dictate what “type” to use. There are six types of full sink line: type 1 – type 6. Type 1 runs the shallowest and type 6 the deepest. I use type 6 almost exclusively as it can get down faster and you can effectively fish around the 18 – 22 ft range with a lot of baits. An electric motor and fish finder are certainly advantageous as trout can be easily spooked and it can be crucial to know your depth so you can work your lines along the bottom structure properly. Bring along a good selection of flies such as shrimp and streamer patterns. It’s always a good idea to check with the local tackle shops to see what’s working. Lures like flatfish, quikfish, hot shots and rapalas are excellent choices to bring as long as they don’t have much dive to them and have high action while trolling dead slow. Pick up some fluorocarbon leader material. Leaders in the 9 – 12 ft range are best. I usually use Berkley Vanish and if I’m using something other than a fly, which I usually do, always tie a swivel into the leader or you will have quite the mess on your hands.





“Ripping” flies is one of the most consistent techniques for picking up active fish. Make a nice long fluorocarbon leader, no need for a swivel down to your fly, all on your type 6 sinking line. Don’t be afraid to use big flies! My best fly has always been a double shrimp pattern on a #2 hook. The key to ripping is exactly what it sounds like. Let your line out until the backing, keeping the trolling speed a little higher than what you might be used to and repetitively jerk the rod as hard as you can. The more power the better! This is another benefit of the heavier 7 weight rod; it makes this motion a lot easier on the arms. Essentially, this will make your fly almost swim through the water like a jerk bait and you get a lot of impulse strikes.


If you want to switch to hardware make sure you check the action of your lure at the side of the boat before you lower your line so you know how to gauge the speed for your troll. For example, flatfish are designed to have a lot of action at a very slow rate of speed, so by trolling dead slow you achieve the perfect action which you will notice on your rod tip, and be able to get deeper than lures that require faster action. So, when you want to get to some deeper fish with your type 6 line troll dead slow with a flatfish, kwikfish, or hot shots and you can effectively fish close to the 20 ft mark.


Getting used to the way the lines follow the boat is very important if you want to work an area properly. Let your line out to the backing if you’re fishing deeper than 12 – 15 ft. Fly lines have much greater water resistance than standard line and due to the thicker diameter it won’t cut the water like monofilament. For example, when you make a fairly sharp turn with fly line it will swing more with your turn and follow the path of the boat instead of cut across water and thus stalling your lure. This allows you to work your bait more effectively. When you get used to fishing this way you can estimate your depth and where behind the boat your fly, or lure, is running to within a few feet. Boat control is absolutely crucial when working deeper structure and you can actually work the lines to ride right up a drop off or sink down, whatever the case may be. So, if you’re trolling in 20’ feet of water and you see that the bottom is rising, all you have to do is gradually speed up so your line is elevated by water resistance caused by the speed of the boat. The reverse is also true when you come to a drop off; slow right down and let the line sink with the bottom and speed back up when your line is deep enough. This will put more fish in your boat and you’ll find a lot fun out of concentrating on the bottom and trying to work it properly. Some of my bigger fish have been caught while stalling on a drop off to let the lines sink, then as soon as you kick into gear hold on!





Even though this is not a popular technique it is not due to its lack of productivity. The only reason is that people never think to do it. There are so many different situations where you can apply this technique. I’ve had enormous success fishing for bass, walleye and pike with crankbaits and flies. Another great place to give this a shot is salmon fishing on the west coast. I’ve done very well fishing for coho, pink and sockeye salmon on a third rod out the back in between my downriggers. One of the biggest things to learn in fishing is to be versatile if you want to be consistently successful. Give this technique a shot and I guarantee you won’t be disappointed.

About the Author:
Craig Mumby is twenty eight years old and has been in the sport fishing industry since the age of 18 when he started working with Bob Izumi’s “Real Fishing” show. He has fished professionally for nearly every sport fish in the country. Originally from Toronto, he grew up fishing Ontario’s many lakes and river systems. Currently, Craig guides out of the prestigious Langara Island Lodge in the Queen Charlotte Islands, British Columbia.

Article Source: http://www.articlesbase.com/fishing-articles/this-under-utilized-technique-may-be-one-of-the-most-successful-trolling-fly-lines-325519.html

image : crappie.com

Crappie Jig Fishing Grows in Popularity Every Year

Author: Daniel Eggertsen

Crappie fishing is one of the world's favorite sports and it continues to grow in popularity every year. Once the crappie move inland to prepare for spawning season they are easy to find. However, if you are interested in crappie fishing during other seasons, then you need a method that can help you get the results you are searching for. This is where jig fishing comes into play.



Crappie jig fishing is one of the most popular techniques available and one that many experienced anglers use frequently.



Finding the crappie is half the battle which is why many anglers now make a fish finder part of their standard equipment. It does make finding crappie a lot easier but if you don't have a fish finder you can still locate where they are hanging out by using more traditional methods. For example, look for the crappie around docks, ledges, brush, stumps, trees and other structures.



Crappie will hang out close to pockets of water that are near the main parts of the lakes and around major creeks where spawning will take place. They do move up and down the creeks depending on the season and the weather conditions so knowing a little about the natural habits of the crappie will help you determine where they are. One of the main advantages to jigging is that it allows you to get your bait to the proper depth and keep it there for the best results possible.



Why Is Depth Important When Crappie Fishing?

So why is depth so important when you are crappie fishing? The reason is because crappies are depth sensitive. What this means is that they tend to stay at a specific depth throughout the body of water where they are located. However, to actually receive the results you are after when crappie jig fishing it is necessary to reach the right depth and keep your bait in this area.



Once you discover what this depth is, then it will remain the same no matter where you are fishing in that lake. Jigging provides a way for you to reach this depth each time that you drop your line making your fishing trip as productive as possible.



There are several ways to find the right depth when crappie jig fishing although some of them can be a little time consuming. For instance, you can start off by dropping your jig deep into the water and working your way up until the crappie begin to bite. Once you start getting bites you know you have found the right depth.



Another way to determine depth is by slowly lowering your line until you reach the spot where you are getting bites. You then need to mark this spot on your line so you will remember how far down you lowered your line so you can reach the same distance each time you place your bait in the water.



The easiest way to find the crappie is by using electronics such as a fish finder. This will also help you locate schools of shad that the crappie feed on and more likely than not, when you find the depth of the shad you have located the crappie as well.

About the Author:

Dan Eggertsen is a fishing researcher and enthusiast who is committed to providing the best crappie fishing information possible. Get more information on crappie jig fishing here: http://www.askcrappiefishing.com/

Article Source: ArticlesBase.com - Crappie Jig Fishing Grows in Popularity Every Year

* Rapala Fishing Lures

image from : whitbyseaanglers.co.uk

Rapala Fishing Lures - How They Developed
Author: Abhishek Agarwal

Rapala Fishing Lures first appeared on the market in 1936, still found in an angler's fishing box today as an essential item. At the beginning, the Rapala Fishing Lures were hand carved using cork and native balsa wood by Lauri Rapala, an avid fisherman from Finland. He noted how fish had a tendency to head towards any injured baitfish and bite aggressively, so he designed a lure that was lightweight and mimicked an injured fish as it moved through the water, so this made the ideal lure.



These first fishing lures were experimental, produced using materials that were accessed from the home. The carved cork with the wood was coved using ordinary tin foil, which produced an even greater result as large fish would make more strikes thinking they had struck lucky with an injured fish. Rapala melted photography negatives which was used as a clear coating to cover the fishing lures to make them waterproof and to seal the tin foil covering. This proved amazing results, in a part of the world that was used to daily fishing events.



All the original Rapala Fishing Lures were handmade and were tested in person by Rapala himself as he had invented them. The demand grew so soon more people were hired to help with production, with the same attention to detail and personal handmade that became Rapala's trademark for each lure that was sold. Today, all Rapala Fishing Lures go through the rigorous testing in a tank before being passed on for sale so as to ensure that it does have the correct movement of an injured fish in water.



Between 1936 and 1965 the Rapala floater was the original and only Rapala Fishing Lure available on the market, then came the balanced jigging lure and the introduction of the saltwater floater. A jointed diver was newly produced in 1974 and in the 1980's came the production of the shad lures.



From 1999, a newer version of Rapala Fishing Lure has been introduced just about every season. These lures are famously sold in over 140 countries worldwide in many stores that sell sporting goods, and with the internet even more have been sold globally. Each year sees a turnover of more than twenty million Rapala Fishing Lures that are sold, which just reflects the actual new ones that are sold in retail outlets. Rapala has also introduced many more fishing gadgest like a fish and fillet knife which came out in 1964, and then came the handheld digital weighing scale in the year 1989. The company, Normark, the owner of the Rapala line include in their product range - rods, reels, accessories and other fishing tools.



Today, the Rapala Fishing Lures continue to be mostly made and tested by the original method of Lauri Rapala's first lure made in his home in 1936, and is still a bestselling lure around the world.

About the Author:

Abhishek is an avid Fishing enthusiast and he has got some great Fishing Secrets up his sleeves! Download his FREE 116 Pages Ebook, "Fishing Mastery!" from his website http://www.Fishing-Masters.com/772/index.htm . Only limited Free Copies available.

Article Source: http://www.articlesbase.com/fishing-articles/rapala-fishing-lures-how-they-developed-776125.html

* Trolling reels are typically used for offshore big

image from : tackletour.com

Trolling reels are typically used for offshore big-game trolling in open water.

Trolling is the process of dragging both bait and lures behind a moving vessel, which is a productive way to locate schools of migratory fish. The reason being, when a boat trolls over a school of fish, the wake and commotion on the surface emulates a ball of bait. This triggers the feeding instincts of many offshore species and immediately sends the leading edge of the school towards the commotion to investigate, with the rest of the pack following. As the most aggressive fish in the school frantically try and chase down this commotion, the trolling lures, jigs and baits are the first hint of a meal that they come across. They charge at them with reckless abandon, inhaling what appears to the fish as vulnerable stragglers, desperately trying to catch up with the rest of the pack.

As soon as one of the trolling lures or baits is inhaled, the trolling reel begins to sing, with the clicker of the reel creating a loud noise that notifies the angler to get ready. This sends the anglers into a dash for their gear, yelling "hook-up", which immediately causes the captain to throw the vessel into neutral to stop the boat. As the momentum of the vessel carries the boat forward, the crew begins to throw live bait, either by pieces or in full scoops. By now, the rest of the migrating school has caught up to the commotion and is met with the temptation of live bait, sending them into a feeding frenzy.

However, a wide-open bite is not always the result of a hook-up while trolling. When the fish are down, or when the conditions are far from ideal, trolling will produce the majority of the catch, with no feeding frenzy following the trolled up fish. On these days, it is essential to land every troll fish and having the right equipment is critical in accomplishing this. Trolling rod and reel combos are the most expensive combos on the market today. Due to their importance in locating roaming schools of open water fish, manufacturers like Shimano®, Penn®, Daiwa®, Okuma® and Accurate® incorporate the finest materials and technologies to ensure strength and durability in producing the best fishing reel capable of handling record-breaking trophies.

Trolling reels are typically found in the lever drag system. On these types of fishing reels, the drag pressure adjusts with the slide of a lever, which is located on the top of the reel to the right. Designated markings of, or similar to freespool, strike and full are found on reels like the Penn® International series, Shimano Tiagra® and the Acurrate Twin Drag® saltwater trolling reels. Most later models come in a two- speed version, with two separate gear ratios that serve different purposes. The high gear is to gain as much line as possible with every turn of the handle, sacrificing torque and power. Low gear, on the other hand, provides tremendous torque and in return, sacrifices the ability to retrieve a substantial amount of line per crank. When properly utilized, both gears are designed to maximize the chances of quickly and efficiently landing scale-busting size fish.

The most noticeable difference in a trolling reel are the two rings that sit atop all trolling fishing reels. These rings are part of the frame and hold an enormous amount of strength. Trolling straps are attached through these rings, as well as big game harnesses and on some occasions, a back-up rod and reel combo, a common practice when fishing on long range boats out of San Diego for huge bluefin and yellowfin tuna. Trolling reels are so strong and powerful, I have even seen anglers cut these rings off and even go so far as to make custom frames to readily access the spool and use trolling reels as live bait reels. I do not recommend this practice, as many of the latest star-drag conventional reels will serve the same purpose.

With the high prices of fuel, trolling around in offshore waters can be very costly. That is why every serious big-game angler should consider having the best saltwater tackle available when it comes to their arsenal. The properly maintained saltwater combo can mean the difference in coming home with a trophy of a lifetime, or coming home skunked, carrying an empty sack.
I have been fishing for over 20 years of my life and hope to continue to do so for the next 30. I have dedicated myself to sharing what I have learned through those years in the hopes of promoting this popular outdoor recreational activity by providing commentaries and reviews, video tutorials, fishing tips and more. Come visit my site at http://spinningreels.com for freshwater and saltwater fishing information.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Henry_Yoo

image from : chroniclejournal.com

Wireline Trolling For Bass

Author: Chris Bell

Overview. Wireline trolling is a techinique that is used by many thousands of New Englanders every year to catch striped bass. It can be very productive if you know what your doing, but many people think you simply put the line out and motor around in your boat to catch fish, and are surprised when they see others catch fish after fish in the same area and apparently doing the same thing and even using the same rig. Well, there must be something different. Knowing where the fish are holding, what their feeding on and the speed to troll at are just some of the considerations to take into account.

Where are the Fish. You have to go where the fish are, not where you want them to be. You also have to go when the fish are there, not when you want them to be there. For any kind of Bass fishing, early morning is usually the best. Early in the season they may feed throughout the day, but as the season progresses and the sun gets higher in the sky you won't find them feeding during the day unless there is tide and a lot of bait or a weather pattern to entice them into activity. You may find them holding on structure and be able to catch them but its pretty certain that there is something in the way of food down there to keep them interested. If the fish are holding on structure, you have to present your offering over that structure, if you are off by 50' there is no joy. If you are trolling and mark and catch fish, turn around and keep going over the spot until you stop catching. Don't go trolling away unless your damn sure there is something better to head to. And don't spend too much time trolling around a spot and not catching.

Tides and currents. Bass are ambush predators and a current will provide them with the opportunnity to lay in wait for a small creature to be swept past their position so they can gobble it up. It is the current generated by the tides you need to pay atention to. An example of this would be the Block Island North reef. The currents there provide areas which bass like to use as ambush points, and some of these are places to troll wireline.

Trolling Speed. Never troll at the same speed all the time if it isn't working. Often fish will follow your offering and are waiting for that trigger that tells them that their prey has detected them. Speed up, slow down, change speeds, speed up during your turns. You will be surprised how many times you hook up fish immediately or very soon after a speed change. Sometimes only going at a particular slow speed works, or a particularly fast speed. The most important thing to do is pay attention to what is going on when you hook up. You need to notice if it is always during a speed change, only when you go fast, only when you go very slow, etc. If you speed up and turn, and the inside line picks up a fish, you may not have enough line out since the inside line will usually go deeper, the outside line shallower.
Current can be used to control your speed. If you want to go very slow, troll directly into the current. There is one area I fish trolling to the same spot and slowing down as the boat gets near it, going into the current. At times we are barely moving forward, and when I reach the spot on my GPS one or both rods will go down with fish on (tide is very important in this case.) There are times when you will catch most of your fish only trolling in one direction in relation to the current. Pay attention to what is happening when you hook up.

Trolling Depth. This is extremely important. Your depth finder can mark a million fish below 30' but if your trolled rig is only 20' deep you will end up being very frustrated and catching very few fish. Your offering must be presented in the "strike zone", which is the area close enough that the fish will be interested in hitting your lure. This strike zone can be very large when fish are feeding aggressively, or very small if they are "turned off".

If you see fish smashing bait on the surface, try letting out a small amount of wireline and troll around the feeding fish, not through the middle of them. So many fisherman shut down the fishing very quickly by trolling through the middle of breaking fish. It is the most idiotic thing they can do. You need to have the lure down near the bottom if you are targeting Bass that aren't feeding aggressively near the surface. If you are in water under 30' deep, it is only necessary to be within 5' of the bottom unless the fish are very sluggish. In deeper water. light penetration becomes an issue and it is necessary to get as close to the bottom as you can without dragging.

The rule of thumb is to let out 10 feet of wire for every 1' of depth. This is varied by boat speed and the weight of your lure. Naturally, going slower will cause the rig to go deeper and faste will cause it to run shallower. Remember, if you aren't dragging bottom once in a while, you're trolling too shallow.

Matching the Hatch. You need to troll an offering which is representative of what the fish are feeding on. If there are hordes of sand eels then you shouldn't be trolling 6" soft plastic shads. Bass most often eat bunker, sand eels, and squid. Lures that represent these species are ones you should have available to you. If you catch a keeper, open up its stomach and see what it has been feeding on.

Sport Fishing. This is supposed to be a sport. Keeping the boat in gear and continuing to troll after you have hooked up a fish is winching, not fishing. I have seen so many bass skipping across the surface of the water as they are being reeled up, it's absolutely ridiculous. You should be fighting the fish and not the boat. Where is the fun in that? So the advice is take the boat out of gear after you hook up.

By following the guideleines presented here the reward will be more success for your fishing trips. The last and most important piece of advice when your not catching is this: remember to ask yourself: "what do I need to change?" Are you going too fast, using the wrong rig, trolling too shallow, etc. Watch what other people are doing, it may give you a clue. Catch 'em up!

About the Author:

Chris Bell has fished Rhode Island waters for 11 years. Before that he was a writer and PC administrator. He now guides Rhode Island fishing charters out of Jerusalem on several boats and in the winter writes on various aspects of fishing for stripers, flounder, and other species and fishing techniques. He also works with several other captains who guide Striper Fishing Charters out of Jim's Dock.

Article Source: http://www.articlesbase.com/fishing-articles/wireline-trolling-for-bass-791461.html

image from : fishkeywestguides.com

Fishing Anglers fight with other Fishing Anglers based on different types of fishing

Author: She's So Fly

How many different types of fishing are there?

There are many different type of fishing for the sports enthusiast to choose from. These basic types include fly fishing, gear/lure fishing, hand fishing, bow/spear/harpoon fishing, deep sea/trolling fishing, dredging, netting, kite fishing, and ice fishing.

Each type of fishing has many different methods and techniques based on preference and demographics. Like, fly fishing, deep sea, trolling, inland, fishing the flats or off of a pier. And then there is freshwater, which is primarily in lakes and rivers, and fly fishing can also be done there too.

Through blogging, I have discovered that many anglers fight with other anglers due mainly to catch and release or catch and eat beliefs. Some fishers consider catch-and-release simply a way to protect a valuable resource; others consider it a personal moral choice. Whatever their reason for practicing catch-and-release, anglers continue to debate the best ways to play and release a fish in order to reduce buildup of deadly lactic acid and improve mortality. Is catching and eating the most ethical kind of fishing? Some anglers believe so.

The cultures of fishing -- fly-fishers, tournament bass anglers, steelheaders who use bait and steelheaders who fling flies, freshwater and salt water anglers, male anglers, female anglers and all the rest -- tend to ignore each other, and/or talk behind each others backs.

America alone has around 44 million fishing anglers.

I have my own opinions as well on each, but I want to point out that I support most types of fishing when performed ethically – but my personal favorite is fly fishing.

I have also lost a few opportunities with sponsorships and endorsements because I do not specialize in one type of fishing – and I think that is ridiculous. If I were to only support one type of fishing such as fly fishing, then as a blogger and promoter of the sport of fishing, I would not reach as many readers and future fishing angler generations to come. I would not be able to educate and inform as many readers on techniques, tips and tricks, cost savings etc that they may benefit from by reading my blog. For example, when I googled "fly fishing" blogs and "fishing" blogs, the amount of information was drastically different – see below:

"women's fishing blogs" - About 21,000,000 results

"women's fly fishing blogs" - About 953,000 results

"women's fly fishing and outdoor blogs" - About 462,000 results

"women's fishing and outdoor blogs" - About 5,540,000 results

My blog for www.shessofly.com is http://fliesonly.blogspot.com/ and typically ranks #1 to #7 which the search terms mentioned above.

In fact it is ALL types of fishing combined that support the $125 Billion Fishing Industry and contribute to the $ 7 Trillion Travel Industry

Support diversity and stop fighting - all you fishing anglers need to unite and learn to get a long and respect the different types of fishing – assuming each fishing angler is legally permitted and following their local rules and regulations and are not doing anything illegal.

Tight Lines and Fun Times, www.ShesSoFly.com

Article Source: http://www.articlesbase.com/fishing-articles/fishing-anglers-fight-with-other-fishing-anglers-based-on-different-types-of-fishing-4204149.html

About the Author

Explore Fly Fishing and other Outdoor activities for women with Sherri Russell, editor of She's So Fly. "Ladies, you don't have to be a "tom boy" to like to fish. I am a girly-girl at heart, I am who I am, and I like what I like. Fishing can be just as challenging, enjoyable, relaxing and rewarding for women as it is for men." www.ShesSoFly.com and www.FishingForACause.com

* RECOMENDED TACKLE

image from : bishfish.co.nz

Tackle on the Move - Trolling


All good anglers know that now and then they must evaluate their tackle box, tackle bag, or what ever. They are remiss if they don't check it out the day before a planned trip. The other day preceding a trip I found one of my trolling plugs missing. Thank goodness I caught it because it was this time last year that the marauding yellowtail appeared on the Huntington Flats. I certainly didn't want to be caught without a back up to the killer Rapala that did them in last year and I was planning to troll the flats the next day.

Actually, my trolling tackle is always on hand for any trip, whether trolling is planned or not. Most of the time trolling becomes a part of the fishing attack because all other methods have failed and as a last resort I begin a troll. You must be ready for any fishing method though and the necessary tackle should be at your fingertips.

All boaters need to find a common place for a minimum of trolling gear, especially those speedy small boats that are launched at the ramps each weekend. Speed is a great attribute because you can get to many prospective fishing spots in a hurry. This is especially true for spread out trolling areas that suddenly show fish boiling everywhere.

I like to use large plugs that can be pulled with speed for the yellowtail and slower speeds for the bass and barracuda. The big plus with large plugs is that mackerel won't grab them. (most of the time). Sometime mackerel can be so thick you simply cannot troll a small 4-5 inch plug 10 feet without catching one. Also you have to use saltwater type plugs that will withstand the powerful whacks of a freight train yellowtail or a 60 pound mako shark.

Years ago while trolling a 6 inch fresh water plug, I got struck by a fish that that tore the body off my line and left me with the diving lip to which I had tied my line.

So now I use only 7 to 10½ inch plugs. I carry the following Rapalas at all times in my tackle box:

2 each: Stainless Steel Magnum, 7 inch, Green Mackerel, #SSCDMAG18.

2 each: Stainless Steel Magnum, 9 inch, 1 each Green Mackerel and 1 each Firetiger #SSCDMAG22.

2 each: Magnum 10 ½ inch, 1 each Green Mackerel and 1 each Firetiger
#CDMAG26.

2 each: Sliver, 8 inch, 1 each Green, and 1 each Silver #SL20. These
Slivers can be pulled through the water at the fastest speeds of all
the Rapalas.

Trolling rods have to be heavy so usually you have to have a rod that is used exclusively for trolling. The following rods are proven trollers that can withstand the strike of the largest yellowtail or mako shark even with the drag hammered and fished in gear.

Penn Power Stick. PC-3866 MH 6'6" Med-Heavy #20-#50 pound
Cal Star West Coast Series. H 6' Heavy #30-#80 pound

Reels used for trolling have to have very smooth drags and hold #40 pound line or heavier.

Penn Special Senator. 113 H-L.H. 4/0 approx. 40/300.

Daiwa Sealine H 400H approx. 40/300, 50/280

Bigfish.com

Controlled Contour Trolling and Slipping

image from : phukethotelresort.net

Controlled Contour Trolling and Slipping
By Bob Riege and Mike Gofron

Contour trolling is something that I really enjoy. Contour trolling will allow you to present your bait right in front of the walleyes nose. In cold front conditions this is essential. What you're trying to do is stay on a particular depth, or contour, where it looks like the walleyes are holding.

Walleyes are a structure oriented fish, most of the time. You might find large schools on some Great Lakes that don't relate to specific structure, but by an large they seek out structure. These walleyes will be tight to the bottom, laying in the holes between rock and cuts in the bottom. They may be feeding, or waiting in ambush to find an easy meal that comes their way. When fishing structure, you have to be able to stay tight to the structure or your lure presentation will not be in the strike zone of the fish. Move just a boat length away and you will be out of luck.

The key to locating walleyes in the river in the spring and early summer starts with locating a series of obstacles and then allowing your bait or lure to present itself in a natural manner so the walleye can race from behind the obstruction to acquire the offering and then race back into the slack water area to digest his meal and await another.

In the spring of the year the turbidity of the water subsides and walleyes are more visually stimulated as they see food floating by the slack water areas. This is not to say that all walleyes see their food before they strike and in some cases they strike more out of vibration and smell than they do from visual identification.

Although the backtrolling technique is still ideal for vertical jigging and live-bait rigging in deep water, walleye professionals today favor trolling forward with a small "kicker," typically a 9.9 to 15 hp outboard. Why? It allows them to fish large bodies of water such as reservoirs more effectively at higher speeds that electric trolling motors can sustain. Trollers commonly use crankbaits, bottom bouncers or weighted three-way rigs with crankbaits, spinners or spoons.

To really slow down and follow the contours I use the Drift Control sea anchor tied off the bow or starboard side of the boat. This acts like a brake and if I have to keep the rpm's up a little on my kicker or big motor it still gives me control to make an inside curve or to allow the lure to track evenly behind the boat on the contour.

If I want to jig a productive area for walleyes the Drift Control sea anchor comes in handy here also. It gives me control over the stern of my boat so I can fish a given contour perpendicularly. By attaching the Drift Control to the stern cleat adjacent to the current it gives me a brake that slows down the drift of the back end of my boat and I can correct the angle with the bow mount trolling motor. Or I can also attach another one to the same side of boat in the bow giving me more drag and a slower presentation when I vertically jig this contour.

One reason that I like to use jigs while fishing for spring walleyes in a river system is the control an angler has. Vertically jigging for walleyes gets my blood pumping and believe me on those cool crisp spring days when it would be nice to be on shore burning a campfire. I need all of my blood pumping just to stay warm. With the proper head design and weight, jigs are the most versatile of all river techniques, from the shallowest flooded cover to the deepest, fastest current.

The majority of river fishing with jigs involves either slipping the current or drift fishing the current breaks. The presentation is a simple lift-drop-pause method of jigging, raising the jig some 3 to 6-inches as you slip downstream. The jigs that I prefer to use are Northland Fireball jigs because of the rounded head. The rounded head allows the jig to bump along the bottom and not get hung up in snags or brush. If you are as vertical as possible, the jig will stand up allowing the hook to be exposed away from the floor of the river. When you tip the jig with a flathead minnow the minnow stands up and looks like it is trying to pick up the jig. As the minnow struggles against the weight of the jig it sends off wounded signals and the natural scent attracts the walleyes and allows them to hang on just that much longer. If the walleyes seem to be just biting the tails off the minnows the Fireball offers an additional eye so you can easily attach a stinger hook. The stinger hook is a great addition in thecold waters of spring and summer.

Colors of the jigs should be bright in dingy water. Colors such as fluorescent orange, chartreuse and my all time favorite gold are great for fishing those spring walleyes. Anytime that you can bring attention to your bait it will help you up your odds for catching those spring walleyes.

Weights may range from 1/8 to 1/2 ounces, but you should stay with the weight that is the lightest that will allow you have contact with the bottom. River walleyes have a tendency not to suspend as much as the walleyes in the lake and you don't have to worry about missing a strike zone that is in the fish column. I will tip my jig with some plastic if I want to slow down the rate of fall, but current usually fights gravity faster and defeats the purpose of vertical jigging.

Slack water fish can also be found by pitching jigs of 1/16 to 1/8 ounce to shoreline or cover like flooded wood or boulders. The angler in this situation should use a lift drop retrieve to slip or quarter the jig downstream as it is retrieved back to the boat. This is a super tactic for fishing eddies, wing dams or shallow mid river shoals. Even in slack water areas I will use the Drift Control sea anchor to slow down my presentation and to stay with active feed walleyes. This same technique is also one that I use when I fish large bodies of water like Lake Erie. When you find the feeding fish and there is not a structural element to stay with you really want to throw a Drift Control sea anchor out and stay with those fish. Otherwise you could be blown off the spot and away from the active fish.

Being in control whether you are fishing a trolling a contour, slipping the current or wind or fishing slack water or big expansive waters is the key to catching more fish. I hope these techniques produce for you and hope to see you on the water soon.

This Fishing Article is brought to you by Bob Riege
Click here for a bio on Bob

Source : http://www.walleyehunter.com/articles/riege12.html