Friday, December 25, 2009

Jig Fishing Techniques

image from thereeltech.com

Jig Fishing Techniques


Author: Escalure Fishing Tackle

Buy Esca Lures online at - http://www.escalure.co.uk/


This bait has remained relatively the same over the past 30 years. It has gone through some cosmetic changes, such as better hooks, livelier skirts, and a broader spectrum of colors and sizes, along with plastic trailers, which enable a wider variety of color options, but this bait, dressed with either plastic or pork, continues to catch bigger bass when other baits fail. Because of the popularity of the flipping technique used by most of the veteran anglers today, the jig has remained among the most popular baits in many anglers tackle boxes. Because of so many recreational anglers concentrating on the flipping technique, the jig's universal effectiveness has been overlooked.


Many people have forgotten that casting a jig is an effective technique also. The jig can be presented at a lot of different depths and around a variety of structure. You are really limiting yourself if you only focus on the flipping aspect of it. Many times during the summer months, we have come in behind other anglers flipping obvious targets, or casting more traditional summer lures, and we have caught bass making roll casts, and looking for isolated pieces of cover that other anglers have missed.


DIFFERENT SIZES


Jig sizes have changed in recent years, along with skirt material and colors. The 3/8 ounce size remains the most popular, with smaller versions are being used more and more with great success. The smaller finesse type of jigs are much more effective in clear water, while the heavier, bulky versions are great for fishing stained to muddy water. Not that the heavier jig isn't effective in some shallower, open water, but a more compact 1/2 ounce bait is more effective, than the bulkier style. I use a shorter trailer for this. This is especially true when fishing some of the finger lakes of New York State, or any of the waters where smallmouth bass are also present. The heavier jig is more effective when the bass are aggressive, as it allows you to fish it faster and cover more water. When the fish are suspended, or you need to keep it in the strike zone longer, the lighter jig is more effective. We always keep experimenting with several sizes, letting the bass tell us what they want. In the summer months, when we swim the jig around boat docks, we opt for the lighter 1/4 ounce size, with a plastic trailer, to imitate a crawfish or baitfish. Swimming the jig is a very effective technique that is overlooked by many weekend anglers. Most small jigs don't have a big enough hook to handle quality bass, which is why we use a Spotsticker handpoured Jighead. We have been using this bait since 2002, when we had great success with it in several local tournaments in cold water as well as in the summer. The Spotsticker has a bigger hook than most, and it handles larger bass well. In warmer, clear water, we like to use a grub or swimming worm as a trailer, this is very effective when you are trying to imitate a crawfish. In colder, or more stained to muddy waters, we like a bulkier trailer, as they displace more water and make it easier for the bass to home in on the bait.


The design of the jighead is another thing you have to think about. They need to be matched to the type of cover you are fishing. A jig that has a head that is more pointed, with its eyelet coming out of the front rather than the top, is going to pull through weeds better than a broad shouldered jig. We like to use a Jungle Jig, by Northland, or a Terminator Pro's Top Secret jig for this. The Terminator has a recessed eye, as does Mann's Stone jig designed by Mike Iaconelli, and they all come through this cover well.These jigs helped us win the Big Bass World Championship several times. They were very effective here in the Northeast, in some of the heavier, weedy cover. When we fish around rocks and wood, we use a jig with more shoulders to help stop it sometimes. Many companies make this type of football or stand up jig, which is great for these situations. When you pull it over an object, the jig tips, adding more action. We have used these jigs effectively on many of New Jersey's reservoirs such as Spruce Run. You must also match the size of the line to the size of the jig hook you are using. A heavy-duty jig hook requires a stronger hook set, so you need heavier line to handle it.


Of course, it helps to know when you're getting a bite. Big bass really thump a jig with the same vigor they do a plastic worm, and many other strikes are felt simply as spongy sensation, or just like you're dragging weeds. That's why it is important to set the hook on anything that feels unnatural, it could be weeds, or it could be a seven pounder!


JIG COLORS


While a black and blue jig seems to be the favorite, we like to match jig colors to the water conditions. A dark colored jig with a big crawfish trailer, moving on the bottom, does a great job imitating a crawfish, but a white jig swimming over cover and around boat docks does a good job of imitating a baitfish. This is great when bass want a slower presentation, or when you can't fish a crankbait or jerkbait with ease. Many times when bass are feeding on shad, but want a slower presentation than a spinnerbait, this is the best choice. It can also catch the bigger bass that are ignoring the spinnerbait. The new "Sweet Beavers" by Andre moore's company, "Reaction Innovations", have been the hottest and most productive soft plastic this year all over the country.


We like the plastic trailers in the summer months, and the pork in the winter.The new Uncle Josh Pork is more pliable in cold water, while plastic gets stiff. In places where many anglers cast tubes or small finesse worms, such as clear water flats, we cast jigs in neutral colors, and catch bigger bass. Many times when bass ignore other baits, the jig will trigger a strike. This is also a great bait for night fishing.


Walleye Fishing Jig - Casting & Retrieve Jigging Tips to Success!


When you start fishing with walleye fishing jigs, you need to develop a keen sense of touch and concentration. Walleyes are finicky biters and you may feel anything from a sharp tap, or you may just see your line start to go tight slowly. An active walleye will inhale a walleye jig as they swim, then they will exhale the water back through their gills. The sucking action by a walleye will produce a sharp tap sensation so immediately, set the hook. Many times when walleyes are not actively feeding they will just put their mouth over the jig. All you will see is your line start to move slightly! Set the hook!


Newbie walleye fisherman go home empty handed many times because they fail to set the hook correctly. Manny beginners make the mistake of waiting for a sharp tap or strike on their walleye fishing jig like if they were fishing for other game fish with a crankbait. Key Walleye tip: Walleyes will hit your jig when it is sinking not on the upward and forward movement.


The best thing you can do is set the hook any time you think something is out of the norm of your rhythm. Just a quick jerk of your rod with your wrists.If there's nothing there nothing hurt anyway. If the walleye jig sinks differently than your normal rhythm set the hook! More then likely there is a walleye "mouthing" your jig. If you think you have caught a weed on your retrieve and the drag is spilling line, set the hook! this could very well be a walleye. Those pesky little perch will sometimes just peck at our jigs,or is it a perch? Set the hook! that pesky little peck could very well be a walleye!


Key walleye tip: You need to be able to feel even the smallest peck, or line movement so you need to keep your line taut when ever the jig is sinking. If you twitch your rod tip, then drop it back rapidly as the jig sinks, slack will form and you will not feel the strike. Instead , lower the jig with tension on the line, as if you were setting it gently on bottom.


You will detect more strikes if you carefully watch your line and rod tip. Many times, you will see a that you cannot feel. If you see your line twitch were it enters the water, or the line moves slightly to the side, set the hook.


Buy Esca Lures online at - http://www.escalure.co.uk/


Key Steps: How To Cast and Retrieve A walleye fishing jig


Step#1 LIFT the jig with a slight pop of the rod tip, then let the jig sink all the way to the bottom. How much of a "pop" will depend on how the fish are reacting the day you are fishing. If the fishing is real slow, and the fish are not moving much then try a very slow retrieve.


Step#2 Lower the rod tip, key point: this is when you will get your walleye strike or bite. Make sure you keep the line taut at all times when the jig is sinking. Go ahead and repeat lifting and lowering your rod tip. Try to develop a good pattern and make sure you reel your up a bit after you twitch the walleye jig.


Step#3 STRIKES Remember a walleye hit will come when the jig is floating back to the bottom, not when the jig is moving upwards or forwards. If you feel a sharp tap that means the walleye has sucked in the jig, set the hook immediately!If the fish aren't active all you will see is your line tighten slightly, or the jig doesn't descend to bottom naturally.


Step#4 SET THE HOOK immediately when you feel anything unusual, a walleye spits out a walleye fishing jig quickly. A Flick of the wrists result in a faster hook set then a long sweep of the arms, but you will need a stiff rod to sink the hook.


Float Fishing With Jigs For Salmon and Steelhead


Float fishing with a jig for salmon and steelhead is one of the most popular and productive methods for pursuing salmon and steelhead because of the many advantages. Less gear is lost to the bottom and snags than other methods of steelhead and salmon fishing, and jigs often times out produce other methods. When other methods are failing, jigs are still producing strikes. The underwater pulsing action of marabou jigs drives salmon and steelhead to strike jigs oftentimes on the first or second pass.


The methods outlined in this article can be used to help with your success when jig fishing for Steelhead or Salmon. We like to use these jig fishing methods with a marabou or schlappen jig when fishing in the Pacific Northwest rivers for Salmon and Steelhead, but these methods will work anywhere you choose to fish including the Great Lakes and more.


First off, to rig up for jig float fishing there are several specific pieces of gear you will want to use. You will want to use a long rod in the 10 foot range, which will be explained later in further detail, a good sliding float, a float stop, a lead alternative sinker like brass, steel, or tungsten (or lead depending on where you are fishing), and a jig.


Some anglers prefer inline sinker weights when fishing jigs but you can also use slip on weights of various sizes tied to or between barrel swivels. The use of a sliding float is helpful because you can adjust the depth that you are fishing at very easily to match the depth of the river. To adjust the sliding float you will need to use a float stop which is essentially just a piece of yarn that is slipped onto the line, tightened, and trimmed. It can be moved up and down your main line to adjust the depth you will be fishing at. This is especially useful when jig fishing lots of varied stretches of water in a day. Usually, you will want to fish your jig 1-2 feet off the river bottom, so it is important to be able to adjust the depth you are fishing to match the specific run or hole you are fishing. Thill and Beau Mac make good sliding floats that offer excellent cast-ability and are easy to spot on the water.


A definite must for float fishing is a floating line like Pline Hydrofloat line which is designed specifically for float fishing or another floating braided line. This lets you see and manage, or mend, your line on the surface and will help you with stronger hook sets. The reason for a longer than normal rod becomes apparent when you are jig fishing and attempting to minimize the drag on your float, and while attempting to keep your line off the water. A rod in the 10 foot range will help you immensely with your line control. The benefit here is the ability to mend, or adjust your line on the water as well as pick it up and get a solid hook set when a fish strikes your jig. When float fishing with a jig, a strike simply looks like your float stopping its downstream motion, or going underwater. The general rule is that anytime you see your float go underwater or behave unnaturally, set the hook!


Many anglers use spinning reels while fishing jigs while others prefer casting reels. It is simply a matter of personal preference. Generally we will use a lighter spinning rod outfit when fishing smaller jigs in micro sizes or when fishing lower flowing or smaller water. When using larger jigs or fishing larger water we like to use casting outfits because of the ability to free spool line out downstream while controlling the spool with the thumb. Whatever your choice, it is important to choose a reel that free spools easily to help in feeding out extra line.


It is extremely important to minimize drag on your rig when float fishing jigs, which again brings us back to the use of long rods and floating lines. Throughout your drift you may have to free spool line out to keep the float standing straight upright in the water. If your line starts to drag and the float turns on its side, you aren't getting a good presentation and aren't fishing your jig correctly. To help fix this problem throw a downstream mend in your line, like you would while fly fishing, to decrease the drag on your line. This may sound confusing but once you get on the water this method will be intuitive and you will understand why it is necessary. You can free spool line out when drifting downstream but don't go too far because if you let too much line out you will have trouble setting the hook and playing your fish back upstream to where you are fishing from.


Fishing with jigs for salmon and steelhead is an immensely popular method, and it is only growing in popularity as the benefits become apparent. Less lost rigs to snags, and the fact that fish love the action of marabou and schlappen feathers underwater make jigs a great option.


Buy Esca Lures online at - http://www.escalure.co.uk/

Article Source: http://www.articlesbase.com/fishing-articles/jig-fishing-techniques-3882241.html


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Friday, November 27, 2009

* Learn Some Important Lure Terms

image from : queposfishadventure.com

Learn Some Important Lure Terms


Author: Abhishek Agarwal
They are many ways to catch a fish. Yes we know that saying applies to rats but it holds as far as fish are concerned too. If you want to enter this sport you will have to do a bit of reading and study the terminology used by other anglers if you want to understand what they are saying.

You may begin with learning the meaning of words such as chumming, rigging and luring. These are all ways of attracting the attention of the fish you are trying to hook. So far as lures are concerned there are many varieties of lures and deciphering the meaning of each of them can be a daunting task if you are new to the sport. Then you must know what the guide is saying when he is telling your to chum and not lure the fish if you want to catch any fish.

Deciding to lure or chum all depends on the type of fish you are angling for. Chum is the type of lure that can be a real mess to make and store so, decide at the outset if you want to use it or not. Most anglers use lures most of the time unless you are trying to catch a fish that relies on its sense of smell to catch its food, in such an instance using a lure will only be a waste of precious time because the fish will just not notice it in the water.

Now just in case you are wondering what the difference between the two terms is les us explain; Chum is used to attract the fist to the spot you intend to fish at. Lure is the bait you use on the hook to actually get the fish to bite. Chum can be small pieces of fish or bread crumbs. Remember to feed the fish too much of chum or they will to be interested in the lure you will drop into the water.

So, when deciding on the lure how do you decide on the type to use? Among the many scores of lures out there is one for every fish, at least one that works best with different fish. Do a bit of research and learn the rest through experience. This is the best way to learn a sport you are definitely going to get hooked on to.

A lure is nothing but an artificially prepared object that looks and acts like the natural prey of the fish you are after. Depending on the location you are fishing the lure will either be a brightly colored object resembling an insect or a dull one. Some high technology lures can be wound up to move in the water and buzz around to fool the fish in to thinking it is a live insect. These are a bit expensive but they work like magic.

So ask around and do a bit of reading and you will have a better understanding of this sport that is attracting millions of people from all over the world and you will be a better fisher of men.
About the Author:
Abhishek is an avid Fishing enthusiast and he has got some great Fishing Secrets up his sleeves! Download his FREE 116 Pages Ebook, "Fishing Mastery!" from his website http://www.Fishing-Masters.com/772/index.htm . Only limited Free Copies available.
Article Source: http://www.articlesbase.com/fishing-articles/learn-some-important-lure-terms-776080.html

Friday, November 6, 2009

* Fish Finders Work Hard to Locate and Put You on Top of a Big Catch

 

Fish Finders Work Hard to Locate and Put You on Top of a Big Catch

Author: Marc Dorin
Fish finders are the best tool to use so you can find and place your boat on top of the fish. All fish finders use sonar to scan the water. A sound wave is sent from the fish finder through the water forming a cone. When an object is detected, the fish finder measures the amount of time between when the sound wave was sent and when it bounced back to the unit and is displayed on the screen.


If the sound wave does not detect anything it hits the bottom. Soft bottoms such as mud will absorb the signal while hard bottoms like rock will reflect a stronger signal and send it back. The small differences in reflections are displayed on the screen and this shows how the bottom is read.
Cone angles are the measurement of the sonar beams in degrees. They are measured at "-10db" which is a way the measurement is consistent from one transducer to another and to accurately represent the capability of the fish finder. Each manufacturer and fish finder model have different cone angles. Humminbird uses an advanced multi-beam system that sends 2, 3 or even 6 sonar beams while most of the other brands use 1 sonar beam.
Here is a quick reference chart for the covered area for a specific cone angle.
Example: If you are fishing at a 10 foot depth and a cone angle of 20 degrees, the area on the bottom is 3.5 feet.

20 degrees -0.35 or roughly 1/3 of depth
24 degrees -0.42 or roughly 2/5 of depth
30 degrees -0.53 or roughly 1/2 of depth
40 degrees -0.72 or roughly 3/4 of depth
50 degrees -0.93 or roughly 9/10 of depth
60 degrees -1.15 x depth
70 degrees -1.4 x depth
73 degrees -1.48 x depth
80 degrees -1.68 x depth
90 degrees -2 x depth
100 degrees -2.38 x depth
110 degrees -2.85 x depth

Fish targets will be displayed as a Fish ID symbol or an "arch" which is an unprocessed sonar return, the choice will be yours. Fish ID symbols are determined from a suspended shape being analyzed from the sonar beam to see if it is a fish. If a fish is detected, it is seen on your display as a fish graphic. Arches are displayed from the characteristics of the sonar. Fish that pass through the beam are seen as an arch on the screen. The sensitivity setting of the unit, depth of water, boat speed and location of fish will determine the size of the arch.
Clarity of the water, strong winds or currents can create air pockets and has a lot to do with the integrity of the signal. Small mineral particles such as algae, plankton or other microorganisms can absorb the sound wave instead of reflecting it back to the unit. The action of the waves will also determine the amount of air in the equation and affect the reading.
Transducers are mounted in the water on the inside of the hull, on the transom or on the trolling motor. From a cable connected from the transducer to the fish finder, an electrical signal is taken from the transmitter and turns it into sonar. The transducer should always be mounted straight down and away from motors or any other obstructions.
There are two different types of display screens available. An LCD screen is measured in pixels which shows the sonar information. The more pixels there are the clarity of the image will be better. FSTN displays provide a high contrast image for easy reading that can be seen from anywhere on the boat. They use grayscale technology that offers more detail by showing the sonar image in different shade of gray which can easily distinguish what the bottom is and what the fish are.
About the Author:
By:Marc Dorin



http://www.fishfindergarage.com/
Article Source: http://www.articlesbase.com/fishing-articles/fish-finders-work-hard-to-locate-and-put-you-on-top-of-a-big-catch-754407.html

Friday, October 23, 2009

* AQUATIC HABITAT

Fly fishing on the South Santiam
image from : en.wikipedia.org

A habitat is where a fish lives. It must contain: adequate oxygen, tolerable temperature, adequate food and hiding places (cover). A suitable spawning habitat must also be available for fish to reproduce.

Freshwater Lakes And Ponds

Many lakes were formed thousands of years ago by glaciers, massive "rivers" of ice, which carved valleys and holes into the earth. These valleys and holes were filled with melting water from the glaciers and became lakes. Dams built to block the flow of rivers have also formed lakes, often called reservoirs or impoundments.Ponds are tiny lakes and many are shaped like a bowl. Many farm ponds are used to store rainwater for crops or livestock. They are often great places to fish!

The Water's Surface

Many tiny creatures live right on the water's surface in lakes and ponds. If you look very closely, you may be able to see these dust-size creatures.
For some fish, the surface is a good place to feed. Bass, bluegill, and trout often eat insects that fall on the water. Anything that makes a disturbance on the water's surface attracts the attention of fish. Small fish swimming near the surface can be an easy meal for larger fish.

Open Water

"Plankton" are tiny plants (phytoplankton) and animals (zooplankton) in the water. Most are smaller than the head of a pin! Small fish like to roam open areas of a lake and feed on zooplankton. Larger fish often follow these small fish and feed on them. Then anglers try to catch the larger fish. This is called a "food chain."
Larger fish usually lurk below the small fish, forcing them toward the surface. Whenever you see small fish on the surface in open water, it usually means that larger fish are feeding. While feeding on these fish, they may make splashes
you can see. Other signs that larger fish are nearby are the
frantic movements of the small fish. The small fish may even jump out of the water while trying to escape!

The Shoreline Shallows

The shallow water along the shore (littoral zone) is important. This is where many rooted plants, such as cattails, rushes, lilies, pondweed, and marsh grasses, grow.
Some lakes also have areas covered by rootless floating plants that make it difficult to fish. All of these plants are important because they produce the oxygen that fish need to live. They also provide a place for fish to find food and shelter from other hungry fish. Shallow water attracts both small and large fish. Small fish, like bluegill, spawn, feed and hide in the plants,
brush-piles, and logs in the shoreline shallows. Larger fish come to the shallows to feed on the smaller fish and also to spawn. Northern pike and bass often hide in the weeds and ambush smaller fish as they swim by. Larger fish often come to the shallows when there isn't much light. That's why early morning and evening are some of the best times to fish shallow areas. Deep water is a home for many types of aquatic life. There is little light, no current, and the water temperature changes less than at the surface. Deep water is a good place for aquatic animals to hide, but there may be too little oxygen to sustain life, especially in late summer.



Freshwater Rivers And Streams

Flowing rivers and streams are always changing. Water currents constantly carry sediment (sand, rock and soil) downstream.The shape of a riverbed controls the amount of water and sediment the river can carry. During or after a heavy rainfall, the water level and the speed of a water current increases. This enables the river to carry suspended sediments and results in the "murky" or muddy water you often see. The water level in a river can drop quickly in very dry weather. During a drought a river can be reduced to a series of pools. This forces fish and other creatures to adjust to the new conditions if they are to live.

River Banks
In a straight stretch of river, the main force of the current is in the middle. The deepest water is also in the middle and the area near the shore is the shallowest. When there's a sharp bend in the river, however, the strongest current and deepest water is at the outside edge of the bend.

Deep Water
In flowing water, there is less current near the bottom. Because of this, most fish stay with their bellies almost touching the bottom. They like to take advantage of low spots and other structure that have even less current than the surrounding
water. They do this to save their energy and to avoid being pushed downstream.
Most fish in a river face the flow of water and wait for food to come to them. Trout and salmon like cold, moving water. Usually, they'll stay near the edge of the current and eat whatever food comes along. At night or when light levels are low, the fish often move to shallow water to feed.

Estuaries
An estuary is the wide lower course of a river where the river's
current meets the tides. In most estuaries this is where salty water mixes with the fresh water of rivers or streams. An ocean tide brings in saltwater and carries out some freshwater. As the waters mix, the water with the most salt is near the bottom. The water with less salt, called "brackish" water, is near the surface because it is lighter. An estuary is exciting for anglers because both freshwater and saltwater species of fish live there. Estuaries
are biologically very productive areas, but they are often converted to industrial sites.

Wetlands
A wetland is an area of wet, spongy land where the water remains near or above the surface of the ground for most of the year. Wetlands are often found between open water and dry land. There are several types of wetlands including marshes,swamps and bogs. Wetlands occur in freshwater, saltwater and estuaries. Almost all are teeming with life. Many people used to think that wetlands were waste areas. For this reason more than 50% of the wetlands in our country have been drained or destroyed. What a mistake! Today we understand that wetlands provide vital spawning
habitat for numerous fish, and are also important to birds and mammals. Wetlands are also important because they help to purify our water by filtering out impurities and sediment. Wetlands also help control floods and store large amounts of water for a long time.

Marshes and Swamps

Marshes and swamps are very important areas for fish. Marshes are more open and have grasses, reeds and other non-woody plants. Swamps have many trees and shrubs. Most bogs are found in northern climates. Bogs are areas with acidic soil and a heavy growth of mosses. Peat moss is formed in bogs by the build up and partial decay of plants. Because of the acid water, fish are usually not found in bogs.

Riparian Zones
Riparian areas are a middle zone of vegetation along streams and rivers. Due to the influence of water, the vegetation in a riparian zone is typically larger and denser than the vegetation outside the zone.
In the drier parts of the country, riparian zones are very obvious. Only the small section near the water has any green vegetation. In parts of the country where more rainfall occurs, riparian zones are not as easy to point out, but they do exist.
Like wetlands, quality riparian areas play a vital role in maintaining the quality of the water in streams and rivers. When humans or livestock destroy the vegetation, the quality of the water is not as good.
Riparian vegetation provides food and shade for aquatic plants and
animals. Leaf litter and terrestrial insects fall from vegetation into
streams, providing a source of food for fish. Elimination of the vegetation along the river can cause the temperature of the river to rise because there is nothing to shade the water from the sun.
Quality riparian zones can cleanse water and act as a sponge in times of heavy rain. This assists in the prevention of flooding. When the rains stop, and water levels drop in the river, the riparian area slowly releases water back into the river. This helps the river or stream to maintain a more stable water supply for fish and other plants and animals that depend on it.

The Oceans
Did you know that land takes up only one quarter of the earth? Oceans cover nearly three fourths of the Earth's surface!

The Intertidal Zone
The intertidal zone is a low, flat area of the shore. It is the area covered by the sea at high tide and exposed at low tide. Crabs, snails and other creatures live here. Predator fish, like sharks, feed in this shallow area at high tide. Their bellies may scrape the bottom while their fins and backs are out of the water. Many other kinds of fish also feed in this zone because it is rich in food. On the West Coast tides can fluctuate 15 to 20 feet. Almost all bank fishing is done in this environment.

Coastal Waters
Coastal or waters near shore, are seldom as clear as the open ocean. Lots of sediments are stirred up by waves. Water temperature affects the variety of creatures in the water. The warmer coastal water has more forms of life than the colder waters of the open ocean. In coastal areas, the ocean bottom may have sections of exposed rock, but most of it is sand or sediment. Fish live at all depths in this coastal water. Most, however, are found close to the bottom. Many feed near cover such as a rock or a coral reef where they can ambush prey. Other fish roam, searching for an easy meal. Most saltwater anglers fish in coastal waters, because there are dozens of different fish species to choose from. Many marine fish migrate up and down the coastline seasonally. Smart anglers monitor water
temperatures to determine which species they should be fishing for.

The Open Ocean
Most kinds of fish that live offshore grow quickly, at least during their early years. A marlin grows from the size of a pinhead to 9-1/2 pounds in 12 weeks! Catching large fish in the open ocean takes special tackle, great skill, stamina, and large, safe boats.


Source Take Me Fishing
Http://takemefishing.org

Tuesday, October 13, 2009

* Taxidermy: The Hunters' Art Form

image from : americanfishtaxidermy.com

Taxidermy: The Hunters' Art Form

Author: Abhishek Agarwal
The word "taxidermy" comes from the Greek "taxis" for arrangement and "derma" for skin. Taxidermy grew from the tanning industry where, by the 1700s, almost every town had at least one tannery. First practiced in the 1800s, taxidermy is the art of mounting dead animals, including humans occasionally, for display. It began when proud hunters began bringing their trophies to upholstery shops to be stuffed. This is where we got the term "stuff animal," although most professional taxidermists would take exception if you called their work "stuffing" instead of "mounting."



Taxidermy is a controversial practice, particularly when the dead animal is used as a trophy, and it appears to be in decline in modern culture. Still, most of the business caters to homeowners, though many taxidermists prepare animals for museums, scientific labs, and zoological displays. To be a taxidermist, one must be well-educated in the areas of anatomy and dissection, painting and sculpture, and tanning.



Because the process of taxidermy relies on having a solid structure with which to work, the practice is usually limited to animals with backbones. In rare instances, taxidermists has involved other creatures like insects, a much more complicated task.



Since the early 20th Century, taxidermy has progressed as a science and an art. Since the goal is to preserve the life-like qualities of an animal, taxidermists continuously seek to improve their skills and procedures, and technological advances have contributed greatly to the profession. If you are a sportsman and want to have your catch mounted, you need to know how to prepare your animal properly to assure your taxidermist can achieve the most life-like treatment possible.



A common technique taxidermists use is freezing the animal. Using a large freezer, similar to that used by butchers, they freeze the animal carcass completely. Once a hard freeze is achieved, the skin is removed and set aside to be tanned later on. The animal's tissue, muscle, and bone are then coated with plaster of Paris, creating a cast of the animal from which a foam sculpture is made. The skin is tanned and then placed on the foam sculpture, and other elements like glass eyes and false teeth are added to create a life-like effect.



A branch of taxidermy, known as "rogue taxidermy," creates fantastical creatures. It is the art of preparing animal-like replicas of animals that do not in fact exist. Their customers are often museums of the bizarre and unusual, and they play on the buying public's vivid imaginations. Thought to be the creative entertainment form of the art, rogue taxidermists need the same set of skills as their more worldly counterparts.



Akin to rogue taxidermy, crypto-taxidermy tries to create or re-create animals that may exist or that have long gone extinct. Examples include woolly mammoths and dinosaurs used by natural history museums. Based on skeletons discovered by archeologists and anthropologists, crypto-taxidermists create life-like forms used in scientific study and education.



A form of taxidermy that was popular in the Victorian era of the 19th Century is called anthromorphic taxidermy. In this form, mounted animals were dressed and displayed as if doing human activities.



Hunters take their kill to taxidermists in order to preserve that moment of victory when they took the animal down. Common especially among big game hunters, they use the meat for food and safe the skin and fur for trophies. Another popular approach is to have a part of the body, like the head, mounted for display.



The stereotypical idea of the "Great White Hunter" popularized by Hollywood brings to mind whole rooms filled with large complete animals posed in challenge or combat. Elephants with trunks raised and tusks bared, giant Grizzly bears poised for attack, and large cats ready to pounce on their prey are popularized, but rare, taxidermy results. The serious professional taxidermist is a highly-skilled artisan.
About the Author:
Abhishek is an avid Fishing enthusiast and he has got some great Fishing Secrets up his sleeves! Download his FREE 116 Pages Ebook, "Fishing Mastery!" from his website http://www.Fishing-Masters.com/772/index.htm . Only limited Free Copies available.
Article Source: http://www.articlesbase.com/fishing-articles/taxidermy-the-hunters-art-form-776036.html

Saturday, September 26, 2009

* Choosing a Trolling Motor

image from : fark.com

Choosing a Trolling Motor
By Ted Koppel

How to decide what you need before you buy.

Choosing the right trolling motor doesn't have to be difficult
but it is important for safe and fun operation. A few things you
need to know before you buy. Do you plan on fishing fresh,
saltwater or both? If both or just saltwater, you need to choose
a motor designed to be used in saltwater. What will be the size
and type of boat you will be fishing from? What type of boat?
Bass boat, pontoon, flats boat, deep V, canoe, Jon Boat or
kayak. Is it fiberglass aluminum or wood? How heavy will your
boat, gear and fishing buddies be? Do you fish in a windy area
or an area where you encounter strong current or both?

All of these factors come into play when choosing the right
trolling motor. You should choose a motor based on your heaviest
weight and worst conditions. Anything less will just frustrate
you and ruin your fishing fun. The below table is suggested
thrust for boats of these lengths under the best conditions. We
suggest you increase the thrust for a heavier than normal load,
windy area or fishing in fast current conditions.

Boat Length/ Lbs. Thrust 12' 30lb | 13' 30lb | 14' 32lb | 15'
36lb | 16' 40lb | 17' 50lb | 18' 55lb 19' 65lb | 20' 70lb | 21'
74lb | 22' 101lb


Mounting: You need to decide if you are going to mount the
motor on the bow, transom or engine mount it. For most boats and
most fishing applications bow or transom will be the easiest and
most convenient. A bow mount works better if your boat can
accommodate that application. You will need room for the motor
mount and room to stand next to it while fish. A transom mount
works fine on a canoe, Jon boat or other small boat without a
bow fishing platform. An engine mount can be used on boats that
don't have any room for a bow or transom mount but are usually
only used on boats for trolling as they must be steered with the
helm or engine stick making them awkward for casting. You may
have noticed that all of the tournament fishermen use bow
mounts.

Voltage: Motors are available in three different voltages, 12,
24 and 36. The 24 and 36-volt batteries are a combination of 12
volt batteries hooked parallel. When using 24 or 36 volt motors
there is less amperes of draw and so the battery holds a charge
longer. The higher the voltage, the lower the amperes at the
same thrust setting. In most cases any boat over 13' should use
at least a 24 volt system. Boats in the 20' + range should
consider a 36 volt system. Batteries should be good quality deep
cycle batteries to withstand the constant discharging. Regular
cranking batteries will expire quickly from the often discharged
state.

The shaft length: Length is strictly determined by the height
above the water line of the bow or stern being mounted to. You
want enough shaft to put at least 6" of water over the
propeller. Remember; shaft length is adjustable on the motor so
don't get one that is just long enough. "Long shafts are better"

Speed and Steering Control: The most responsive is the hand
control. There are, however, 2 choices with a third possible add
on.With the hand control it can be difficult to control the boat
when you have a fish on. With a foot control you have to get
used to the delay in response but always have both hands free.
You can add an autopilot and have the advantage of the hand
control and still have both hands free while fighting a fish.

About the Author: Ted Koppel. For more information on trolling
motors be sure to visit http://www.efishbox.com

Source: http://www.isnare.com

Permanent Link: http://www.isnare.com/?aid=404449&ca=Advice

Tuesday, September 22, 2009

* Salt Water Fishing Lures - 5 Great Options For Salt Fishers

image From : isimangaliso.com

Salt Water Fishing Lures - 5 Great Options For Salt Fishers

Author: Abhishek Agarwal
Salt water fishing lures are available in as many choices as there are for fresh water angling and maybe even more. What should be considered is that if you are fishing in salt water, the catch will be of a bigger and weightier variety and the equipment you need will also be larger as compared to the fresh water fishing gear. Marlins, sailfish and trophy fish are much larger and will need bigger lures.



1. Salt water fishing lures

You will need lures that will compatible to the different species of fish and even amongst the same species you would need different lures. Distinctive fishing lures for salt water could be utilized for different species of fish. Even within the same species you would need different lures for varying conditions like deep water, shallow water and according to the many seasons the feeding would have to be changed. You would also have to change the lure you are using according to the time of day and visibility factors.



2. The uses and variety of jigs

Like the lures you get a variety of jigs in different shapes and sizes and colors for salt water fishing. Salt water jigs are for fishing close to the bottom and for this reason they have to be heavier to that they can withstand the extreme tides and currents.



3. The types and uses of plugs

Lures that also work as plugs for salt water fishing are one of the chief items in the box of fishing equipment. These plugs are usually black or any other dark color so that they resemble the bait very closely. These plugs are made to resemble a smaller bait fish that is injured and dragged from side to side in such an effective way, like an injured bait fish that the larger fish are attracted to it and strike this plug forcefully.



4. Tins used to bait salt water fish

Tins are distinctive to lures that are used for salt water fishing, and are totally a very reflective lure in tin. These once again are made to look like a bait fish that is moving swiftly through the water in a very similar way to a bait fish, with the same sheen and reflection being caught in the water. There are some white feathers attached to the tail end so that it gives the movement of the tail a more authentic look and also adds more movement in the water around that area.



5. Lures that are made of plastic

Lures made of plastic could be in almost any color and could have two or three hooks. These could be made in one bit or could have many joints which would depend on the lure’s length and the kind of purpose it is going to be used for. Very realistic to look at, the lures that are made of plastic resemble baitfish and squid that are to be found in coastal regions, very closely. These plastic lures are used mostly for angling in inlets on the coast, along side the bays and when the baitfish are moving from deep to shallow waters or the other way around.

Just like the lures for freshwater, the lures used for salt water are also used in a similar manner to skip along the top layers of the water on the surface and lure the fish to the top. It is best to use these lures in calm waters either for angling from a boat or from the beach.
About the Author:
Abhishek is an avid Fishing enthusiast and he has got some great Fishing Secrets up his sleeves! Download his FREE 116 Pages Ebook, "Fishing Mastery!" from his website http://www.Fishing-Masters.com/772/index.htm . Only limited Free Copies available.
Article Source: http://www.articlesbase.com/fishing-articles/salt-water-fishing-lures-5-great-options-for-salt-fishers-776139.html

Wednesday, September 9, 2009

* Basic Elements Handline

Pict From : tripadvisor.com

Swivels (Figure 8) are highly recommended at the junctions of the various elements of the handline, i.e to connect the snood to the mainline and the sinker to the mainline.
If you cannot buy swivels in your area, then take this booklet to the nearest blacksmith, show the following picture and ask the blacksmith to make a few for you.
The swivels should be made of steel, brass or copper. The main requirements are to make them strong enough and to have them be smooth where the attachment points meet for easy turning or swivelling.
To begin to assemble the handline, take the line and tie one end to a simple wind-on apparatus or a spool. You tie the line using one of the knots in Figure 9.
Figure 8. Different types of swivels



Next wind the twine on the spool.
Now you must find a piece of twine to use as a branchline. It does not have to be as strong as the mainline, but if you do not have a separate branchline material then you can cut three pieces off the end of your mainline, each piece about 60 cm long, and use these for branchlines.
Figure 9. Knots used to tie the line: (a) bowline knot for spun, twisted or braided twine; (b) Japanese fisherman's knot for monofilament



Figure 10. Tying the mainline to the sinker's swivel: (a) for spun or braided twine; (b) for monofilament





Next you tie the sinker to the mainline. You can use the same knots that you used when you tied the other end to the spool, but it is advisable to make two turns around the swivel eye before tying the knot. Note also that there are other suitable knots, which you may prefer (Figure 10).
To tie the line directly to the sinker, for any type of twine, use either one of the knots in Figure 11. However, a swivel is always recommended next to the sinker.
Figure 11. Tying the mainline directly to the sinker



Figure 12. Making loops for the snoods: (a) for twisted or braided line; (b) for monofilament line; (c) or better still use a three-way swivel



To make the knot in Figure 11a, simply double the line and make overhand knots with the doubled line to make a loop; then pass the loop through the eye of the sinker, slip it over the sinker and pull tight.
To make the knot in Figure 11b, form a loop with a single overhand knot. Pass the loop through the eye and slip it over the sinker and pull tight.
Now you must make three loops on the mainline approximately 40 cm apart, with the first one about 30 cm from the sinker (Figure 12).
Next you take the three branchlines and tie your hooks on to them.
Look at Figure 13 and select the knot you want to use to tie your hook to the branchline (snood). Knots a, b and c are suitable for all types of lines, but for monofilament you should use one or two additional turns. These knots can also be used for your three-way swivel, both for your mainline and branchline. Knots d and e are especially for tying twine to hooks with flattened (spade-like) shank ends; d is for twisted or braided line, e for monofilament.
Figure 13. Different knots for hooks



Finally, you tie the other ends of your branchlines to the loops you have already made on your mainline, choosing from the knots pictured in Figure 14. You may also use the knots shown in Figure 10b for monofilament lines.
Figure 14. Knots for tying the snoods (branchlines) to the loops: (a, b) for twisted or braided lines; (c) for monofilament



Now your handline gear is ready. Figure 15shows what you have got.
Figure 15. Complete set of handlines: (a) wooden spool; (b) branchline attached to mainline loop; (c) alternative branchline attachment, with swivel; (d) hook attachment; (e) sinker attached with swivel



Originated by: Fisheries and Aquaculture Department
http://www.fao.org/

Text: B. A. Bjarnason
Illustrations: M. Carlesi

The designations employed and the presentation of material in this publication do not imply the expression of any opinion whatsoever on the part of the Food and Agriculture Organization of the United Nations concerning the legal status of any country, territory, city or area or of its authorities, or concerning the delimitation of its frontiers or boundaries.
David Lubin Memorial Library Cataloguing in Publication Data

Bjarnason. B.A.
Handlining and squid jigging
(FAO Training Series, no. 23 )
ISBN 92-5-103100-2

Wednesday, August 26, 2009

* Fly Casting Drills

Image unique-southamerica-travel-experience.com

Fly Casting Drills
By Marilyn Davis


Casting Drills
2000-10-01 - Capt. Tom Rowland www.saltwaterexperience.com/, Permitfly4@aol.com

16 Azalea Drive, Key West, FL 33040, 305-294-7447 Home, 305-797-2238 Cell


The ready position, usually ignored, is one of the most important things that flats anglers should practice.

Being able to cast over 100 feet is admirable, but that certainly shouldn't be the only thing that you practice before your next flats trip.

In fact, the best thing to practice is to be able to cast 40-50 feet quickly and accurately rather than 150 feet slowly.

1. Use the rod and the type of fly hookup that you are likely to use for fishing to practice your casting.

2. Practice stripping the line off the reel and restripping it as quickly as possible. You , the angler, should be ready to fish within a minute after you step on the deck.

3. Try to cast from the ready position to 50-60 feet and practice throwing to a target.

4. When you have hit the target, strip in and get back into the ready position as quickly as possible. Pay close attention to where you are stripping the line. A hula-hoop placed behind you can simulate the cockpit of the boat.

5. Practice with 2 casting objects. Go from the ready position to a section placed at 11:00 and 50 feet. Deliver your cast and then pick up and go to a target at 9:00 and 70 feet with as few false casts as possible.

Strip back in and get back into the ready position quickly. This is one of the most realistic practice situations. Visualize a fish swimming towards you and coming across the bow. Cast to the fish imagining it at 11:00. Imagine that your cast went unnoticed, pick up and cast farther at 9:00. If that doesn't do it, strip in and get ready for another shot.

6. Minimize false casts. Try to practice throwing as few false casts as possible. This will improve your speed and line shooting ability.

7. Practice throwing long casts, but practice throwing them from the ready position and not with the line extended in front of you. This will develop the skill that that you will actually use while fishing and you will also become very good at getting into the ready position quickly.

8. Throw casts 30-50 feet during practice. Short casts are sometimes difficult for anglers who have only practiced throwing distance casts. In general, on a normal trip you will cast at this distance several times a day .

9. Maintain your lines in good condition or purchase a new line for your trip. Old lines become sticky and tangle frequently. Make sure you clean lines at least once a day.

10. Try to practice with the rod that you are likely to use. For a tarpon trip practice with an 11 or 12 weight if you can get your hands on one.

If you don't own one, try to borrow one from a friend or your local tackle shop. There is a big difference between a 9 and an 11, and it is almost incomparable to a 4 or 5 weight. It will be useful to be ready and used to the bigger rod before you get on the boat.

11. To strengthen your arms and wrists, pretend that you are casting with a full wine bottle held by the neck. This will strengthen the muscles that you use for casting as much as anything.

The more you strengthen the little muscles in your forearm and wrist, the more powerfully you will be able to cast.

Even though these techniques may seem simple, they all have great value and will increase your skills and make you a better flats fisherman.

It is not enough to simply try to remember these tips; you have to practice so that all of this is second nature. Many anglers practice for their upcoming trip by constantly throwing as far as they can.

Long casts in your repertoire will increase your chances getting the fly in front of a fish, but 30-60 foot casts are heavily used while fishing the flats. Sure, you can still practice throwing 110 feet of fly line and I recommend it, but practice the most basic things too.

You have a tremendous amount invested in your flats trip when you combine the hotel and guide expenses, the time away from work and family, and all of the time that you have practiced. Quantify your investment by being fast and practiced on the small details.

If you are not a good caster at this point, don't be intimidated. The more you practise these tips the more they will become part of your good fishing habits, and you will become a better flats angler. These will not substitute good casting, but without the right preparation, the best casters in the world can't get it out of the boat.

Tight Lines,

Capt. Tom


For more fishing articles check out our fishing article directory :
http://www.flkinfo.com/fishing-articles/

Fishing DVDs at http://www.flkinfo.com/vp.htm

Marilyn Davis is a longtime resident of Key Largo & avid fishing person.

For more fishing articles check out our fishing article directory :
http://www.flkinfo.com/fishing-articles/

Fishing DVDs at http://www.flkinfo.com/vp.htm

Article Source: http://www.free-articles-zone.com

* Fly Fishing Book

image : bigfishingshop.com


Fly Fishing Books
By Steve Sharpe


Although experience is a great teacher when you are learning about fly fishing, you may also want to look into the myriad of books that are available on the topic. Fly fishing involves a lot of things, and you’ll need to know about these things if you’re going to be effective in the sport. Fly fishing books are a great way to start learning!

A quick search on Amazon.com shows over 8,000 titles on fly fishing available! Prices range between $10 and $50. Some of these books are purely instructional while others contain anecdotes and fish stories designed to entertain. You can get books that tell you the best places to fish at and the most satisfying fly fishing destinations.

Fly fishing books are great resources as well if you want to learn how to tie your own flies. One of the first things you need to know in fly tying is what the flies look like that you’re trying to mimic. When the book comes with illustrations, you can easily match your fly to the picture.

Online books are another great way to get information about fly fishing. There are many e-books available for download. Look for the ones that will fit your needs. If you’re a beginner, you may want a comprehensive guide to all aspects of fly fishing. If you’re more experienced, an update book may be the way to go.

When choosing a fly fishing book, look at the author first. Are they qualified to write this book? What experience do they have in the sport? Can they provide you with compelling reasons to take his or her advice? You will get more accurate information from a person who has personal experience to offer.

Is the book easy to read? When you are reading a book filled with technical language, it can be overwhelming and it isn’t likely to help you much. The author should define unfamiliar language early on in the book and keep reminding you throughout the text what they are referring to.

Don’t opt for long winded tomes of pages akin to War and Peace. They aren’t likely to give you much good advice plus the boredom factor has to come into play. A lot of great information can be packed into a few pages. Opt for the shorter book rather than the longer one so you get what you pay for!

Fly fishing books are wonderful sources of information when you are learning about this sport. Find a book that you are comfortable reading that also gives you what you are looking for. The choices are vast, so go online or get to the bookstore today and learn what you need to about the sport of fly fishing!

Steve is the owner of http://www.articleland.co.uk and http://fishing.articleland.co.uk. He is well known for his love of fishing and has travelled the world, always taking time to try out the local waters. He has wriiten a book on the art of fly fishing which can be found at http://fishing.articleland.co.uk

Article Source: http://www.free-articles-zone.com

* Fly fishing In Canada

Image : en.wikipedia.org

Fly Fishing In Canada
By Steve Sharpe


Canada is a beautiful place to visit. When you are planning a fly fishing trip, you’ll find an amazing adventure in Canada! Many of the rivers and lakes where fly fishing is the best are in remote areas, so when you choose fly fishing in Canada, you’ll have privacy with the added perk of some great fishing!

Some of the best fly fishing in Canada is found in the province of Ontario. There are many lodges you can choose from to stay at when you are there, but be warned that most of them are in very remote places where you are likely to be left alone with your party and can only get in and out by plane or train.

The Brown Bear lake system in Ontario is considered one of the best fly-in trophy smallmouth bass lakes in the area. The fish here average between two and three pounds, but four pound fish are common every season with some trophy wall hangers of 5-6 pounds being caught each year.

Norse Lake is a prime example of a remote Canadian fly-in wilderness lake. The lake is protected by a high, picturesque landscape that stays relatively calm even in windy weather. Here, you can catch beautiful walleye, Northern Pike, and smallmouth bass. Trophy sized fish are found every year, so fish this lake for some great opportunities.

Populus Lake offers twelve miles of beautiful water and land for you to explore when fly fishing in Canada. There are numerous channels and bays dotting this lake with all sort of landscape features like rock outcrops and weed beds which are prime breeding ground and hiding places for fish. This lake is situated in a very remote area with walleyes, trout, and Northern Pike in abundance.

Picture a cool, clear Canadian lake with lots of trophy sized smallmouth bass and Northern Pike and you’ll have Treelined Lake. This lake is so clear, you will be able to see the fish clearly near the shoreline. Wildlife is abundant here and it’s not uncommon to see a moose feeding on the shoreline in the twilight. You’ll find some real trophy sized fish on Treelined Lake with Northern Pike averaging over 5 pounds and smallmouth bass at 4-5 pounds.

Because so many fly fishing spots in Canada are located in remote locations, you’ll find peace and serenity during your fly fishing trip there. Enjoy the beauty of the Canadian wilderness while you catch the fish of your dreams. There are so many choices available to you that when you choose Canada for your next fly fishing trip, you’re sure to come away a winner either way!

Steve is the owner of http://www.articleland.co.uk and http://fishing.articleland.co.uk. He is well known for his love of fishing and has travelled the world, always taking time to try out the local waters. He has wriiten a book on the art of fly fishing which can be found at http://fishing.articleland.co.uk

Article Source: http://www.free-articles-zone.com

* Fly Fishing a quick gude for newbies

image : escalanteoutfitters.com


Fly Fishing: A Quick Guide For Newbies
By Roy Sencio


Fly fishing is a great hobby! In fact fly fishing is one of the most popular fishing hobbies, that lead countless fishing enthusiasts to many running streams.

Aside from actually catching a real live fish, it is one of the best ways to relax; allowing you the opportunity to cut away from the stress of city living and break the monotony of the usual daily work routine. What could you possibly want more than breathing some fresh unpolluted air? There is nothing as soothing as the occasional hushed sway of distant trees in the breeze, and the sound of a running stream. So in a way, the catch is actually just the bonus.

But how do you get started in fly fishing?

If you are planning on taking up fly fishing you will need the right equipment and you will have to learn how to use it the right way. What you would need are as follows:

1. A Fly Fishing Rod
A proper fly fishing rod weighs around 5 ounces and is usually about 9 feet in length, however this may depend on how small or how big the river is, where you intend to use it. The best place to get advise on the right equipment to use is the local fishing tackle store; not only will they be able to tell you what equipment would be appropriate for a particular stream, they'll give it to you without costing you extra.

2. Fly Fishing Line
The line used for fly fishing is actually much thicker than a normal fishing line. It needs to have enough weight to achieve that whipping action used to move the fly around the surface of the stream.

3. Flies
This is not a real fly, but an artificial fly lure. Artificial fly lures vary and depend on the type of fish or fish specie you intend to catch. Another fact to take into consideration are the insects that are common in the particular stream. Sometimes you may need a fly for working the surface of the water, and other times you'd need a lure that sinks a little bit. The look of the lure would also depend on the insects that thrive on the stream's edges. The more experience you get in fly fishing, the more you would want to try out different fly lures, some even eventually make their own fly lures. Nothing could be more rewarding than the experience of catching a nice sized fish using your own handmade fly lure.

Like any other hobby, it may take some time to master fly fishing. You need to practice on the technique, but if you have the right equipment and you keep at it long enough to learn how to really use it, you will be an expert in no time.

The fly fishing technique is actually simple. The idea is to mimic the behavior of insects that the fish feed on. It is also important for you to observe the river for the type of insects around, as this will help you choose a fly lure that looks similar to these insects. You also need a rod with the right type of action that allows you to work the fly well enough to be able to mimic the insects' actions on or below the surface of the water.

Just as important as knowing how to use the fly fishing equipment and choosing the right lure is knowing the best time to fish. The most ideal time would be when the fish are most active and that can vary from one stream to the next. Dawn and dusk are typically the best times since the sun isn't bright enough for the fish to see you, and the insects that the fish feed on are also usually very active.

With just a little preparation, learning about the right equipment and learning how to use it; fly fishing can be an exciting and rewarding hobby.

The fly fishing technique may take time to master however, and the catch may not come in the numbers you would have hoped; the greater reward would probably be the opportunity to leave the city for the exciting experience of actually catching a fish out in nature.

Live Bait Fishing

Article Source: http://www.free-articles-zone.com

* Ideas For Fishing Trips

image from : nighthawkpublications.com

Ideas for Fishing Trips
By Editor 123
Planning a fishing trip can be tough. There are many different options and great places to fish in United States and elsewhere in the world. Choosing between mountains or ocean, freshwater or saltwater, and fishing guides or alone, can be daunting. Although a fishing guide will cost you money, it will likely make your trip more enjoyable. Top fishing guides help you hit the right spots which results in bigger and more fish. As for the location, it is tough to decide between fishing for salmon in Alaska or going deep sea fishing in Alabama.

There are a few websites that can help your trip planning go smoothly. FishingGuidesWorld.com, for example, helps you search fishing guides by location and type of fishing. After narrowing down to a location and type, you can see user reviews of the best fishing charters. The site also helps you pinpoint the exact location of the business, gives you important trip information, and allows you to contact the fishing business directly. Whether you are looking for fly fishing guides, saltwater fishing guides, or lake fishing guides, this site seems to have it all. It also provides reviews of nearby lodging, and even places to purchase equipment before your trip.

Sites like these are the smartest way to go about planning your trip. If you wait until you get to the destination it will take up too much time to search around and talk to different fishing guides. You don’t want to waste your precious vacation time. Plan before you go and you can feel confident that your tip will be perfect. The best fishing guides will provide the latest fishing equipment, provide safety, and help you catch plenty of fish. Some fishing guides specialize in trolling, drifting, jigging, or other techniques that will help you land the big ones.

For further information on fishing charters and fishing guides please visit www.fishingguidesworld.com

Article Source: http://www.free-articles-zone.com

Monday, July 27, 2009

* Basic Fishing Tackel

pict from : panamafishingandcatching.com

Basic Fishing Tackel Therms

There is lots of great tackle available Here are some terms of basic tackle items and
techniques to help you get started.

• ROD – A long lever, usually made of fiberglass, graphite or composite materials and used to catch fish.
Different types are available, such as rods for spinning, fly fishing, spincast, bait casting, boat fishing,
offshore trolling, surf fishing, jetty/pier fishing, etc. Most rods have a reel-holding clamp and guides
through which the line runs.

• REEL – A mechanical device for holding and spooling fishing line. Reels have a line spool, brake to
slow running fish, handle to retrieve line and foot for clamping to a rod. Reel styles include CASTING
(revolving spool), SPINNING (line coiling off stationary spool); SPINCAST, (like spinning but with a
nose cone), and FLY (storing thick fly line/backing and to fight big fish).





• LINE – Specialized "string" used for fishing. Nylon monofilament line is the most popular. Other lines
are made of different materials, including braided fibers and wire. FLY LINE is a specialized line made
of a plastic coating on a core, and often made tapered (changing diameter) to make fly casting easier.
(To preserve good fishing, take any discarded line with you when you leave. Discarded line can snag and
harm wildlife, and kill fish, turtles, frogs, birds and small mammals.)

• LEADER – A length of monofilament, wire or other stranded
material tied between the end of the line and the lure or hook.
Leaders provide extra strength or abrasion resistance from the
rough mouth and teeth of fish (pike, barracuda, sharks),
scales (sharks), gill covers (tarpon and snook), blows from
tails (tuna).

• BAIT – Natural attractant added to a hook to catch fish.
Bait includes live and dead baitfish, crabs, crayfish, worms,
eels, insects, mussels, clams, cut bait (fish), chicken livers,
corn kernels, dough balls, squid, and shrimp.


• LURE – Any artificial item designed to attract fish and fitted with hooks.
These include flies, hard plastic or wood lures (or plugs), soft plastic
imitations, large offshore skirted baits, metal spoons, lead-head lures
(jigs), bladed lures, spinners, spinnerbaits.

• HOOK – A metal wire device shaped like a "J" with an opening or "eye" at one
end to which the line is tied and a point at the other end to catch the fish. Circle hooks
have an angled point. Double and treble hooks have two or three points, respectively.


• SINKER – A weight of lead or other metals designed to sink a hooked bait or lure.

• FLOAT – Also called a "bobber",
these suspend hooked baits off of the bottom,
and signal hits by "bobbing" when a fish takes the bait.

• STRIKE – Any "hit" by a fish taking a lure or bait.

• TACKLE BOX - A box or bag with special
compartments and features to hold terminal
tackle, lures, hooks, and other fishing gear.

• TERMINAL TACKLE – A general term for
describing bobbers, sinkers, hooks,
rigs, snaps, swivels and other gear used at the end of a line.

• SNAP – A small device similar to a dog leash snap, tied to the line and used for
attachment and quick release of hooks, rigs and lures.


• SWIVEL – A small device with two or more eyes (rings) a central
swiveling part. They are used between a lure or leader and line
to prevent line twist. Otherwise, line twist can occur when a
revolving lure twists line to cause tangles.


• TROLLING – A method of slowly running a boat while trailing lures or bait.
This fishing method is used to cover a lot of water and to find fish.


• STILL FISHING - Fishing without moving the bait once it is cast.

• CRANKBAIT – A fish-like hard lure or plug designed to swim under
the surface, often made of plastic or wood. Some are combined
with replaceable soft plastic tails.

• TOPWATER LURE – Lures made of hard plastic, wood,
hollow rubber/plastic and designed to float on the surface
to attract fish when twitched or moved.


• SOFT PLASTIC LURES – Made of a soft plastic
to resemble a worm, lizard, crayfish, shrimp or
generic wiggling creature. Often sold in bulk to
be rigged on a hook by the angler.



• SPINNERBAIT – "Safety pin" style wire lures
with one or more spinner blades on the end
of one wire, and a weighted body, skirt and
hook on the other. Used to fish around
structure such as trees and stumps.



• BUZZBAIT – These "safety pin" wire lures for surface fishing have a
propeller blade on one wire and a weighted body, skirt and hook on the other.


• JIGGING - A method of dropping a lure into the water over a fishing site and moving it - "jigging it" -
up and down to attract fish. Done from a pier or boat.
• JIG – Sometimes called "bucktails", these weighted-body (often lead) lures
are molded on special hooks
and rigged with a hair tail or
soft plastic skirt or worm.



• SPINNER – Spinner blades rotate
around the straight wire shaft of these
weighted-body treble-hook lures.



• TUBE BAIT – Made of soft plastic, these tubular lures are fished with special weighted
hooks inserted into the hollow body.



• BLADE BAIT – A weighted, fish-shaped blade made with a swinging
hook and designed for fishing deep.


• CHUMMING – A fishing technique by which bait or scent is released into the water
to attract fish to take a lure or baited hook. Chum consists of live, dead, ground-up
or prepared baits and scents and is used in fresh and saltwater.

• CASTING SPOON – A spoon-shaped metal or hard plastic lure that wobbles to attract fish.
They can be fitted with a fixed (solid) hook or swinging hook, that has a single, double or treble points.

• WEEDLESS SPOON – Wobbling spoons made with a fixed hook and guard
for fishing weeds.

• STRUCTURE SPOON – Both casting and vertical jigging techniques are
used for fishing these swinging hook heavy metal lures.

• TROLLING SPOON – A large spoon that is trailed, or trolled, behind a
boat to catch fish.



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