* Proper Lake Management

image from : lakenipissingfishing.net

By Brad Metzler

Lakes are sometimes left to fester and turn into an ecological nightmare. Man-made lakes are especially susceptible to human input, such as pollution, fertilizer run-off and introduction of foreign species of plants or fish. Proper lake management can help to prevent the demise of a precious natural resource. Experts in lake management design plans for correcting existing problems and preventing future mishaps. Left unattended, a lake can age at a dramatic pace, leaving nothing behind but a swamp, void of life.

Finding innovative, economical and environmentally friendly ways to manage large bodies of water has always been a top priority for those who truly care about our lakes. Without proper management, lakes can have poor water quality, become depleted of oxygen and fish will die. Water quality is generally the first thing to suffer. That can be followed by algae saturation, weed overgrowth and deoxygenation of the upper lake zones.

When a lake is in ecological balance, its plants can absorb nutrients and its bacteria can metabolize them. Wind, sun and rain provide enough aeration and photosynthesis to keep the oxygen content of the water at an optimal level. This is a delicate balance that can be easily upset. Water quality testing is the first step to proper lake management. A water quality test will show nutrient levels, algae blooms, oxygen demand, pH, phosphorus and nitrogen content.

Weeds and other organic matter in the lake will grow and then eventually die. The decomposing matter creates a plethora of aerobic bacteria. These bacteria are useful to the lake in the right amounts, but when there are too many, they quickly deplete the lake of oxygen. All of the aerobic digestion will cause the water to emit a foul odor and you may see fish start to die. The overactive aerobic bacteria will cause the bottom of the lake to become completely deprived of oxygen, forcing the lake to depend on photosynthesis, wind and rain for its oxygen. The water quality can quickly deteriorate, exhibiting excessive nutrients, low oxygen and little or no circulation.

You can recognize signs of poor water quality and act quickly if necessary. Weeds and algae are the first thing you will visually notice. If the water turns completely green with algae, it can deplete oxygen over just a few hours and you may get massive fish kill-offs, or even algae kill-offs. When the algae die, it will turn the water brown and you may notice a distinctive smell.

Lake management is a very broad field and there may be no simple answers to your problems. Lake management experts are trained in identifying problems, or even potential problems, and can save you a lot of money in the long run. They are well-versed in increasing oxygen levels, circulation and monitoring aerobic bacterial levels. They are also trained in maintaining or increasing fish populations in your lake. A variety of solutions are available, including fish attractors, that can help your fish population soar. Insect problems, odors, oxygen problems, fish kills and eventual lake death can be avoided if the appropriate lake management program is implemented from the start.

About the Author: Brad Metzler is the owner of Honey Hole Tree Inc., an industry leader in the production and sale of fish attractors like Honey Hole Trees and Turtle Traps. Honey Hole Tree Inc. also consists of Lake and Pond Management Professionals that are dedicated to finding the most economical solutions and strategies for your fish attractant and stocking needs.

Article Source: http://www.free-articles-zone.com

* Line Basic

Selecting The Line

Almost any kind of line or twine can be used for a handline. However, there are several considerations to take into account before deciding upon the most suitable type. The first action is to decide what fish or type offish you want to catch. This decision may be determined by preferred taste or commercial or sale value, but it also involves the size and power of the fish concerned.
If the target fish is large, then a strong line is needed; if small, then a line with less strength is needed. Here the problem is in choosing the most suitable line. It must be strong enough to hold the fish and withstand the combined force of its weight, swimming power and determination to escape. (Some small fish fight hard and put up a lot of resistance to being caught, while others, sometimes large, give up easily and with only small resistance.) On the other hand, it should be as thin as possible to make it less visible to the fish and less likely to distract the fish from taking the bait. A thick line is more easily detected than a thin line and may disturb the fish or make it very reluctant to take the bait. A thin line is less disturbing and less easily detected.
You should keep in mind, however, that not all thick lines are strong and not all thin lines are weak. This is particularly true of the thin transparent nylon or polyamide lines which not only are difficult for the fish to see but are also very strong in relation to their size (see Tables 1 to 3).
Generally speaking, the lighter the line the more effective it is for catching fish, while the thicker the line in relation to the size of the fish, the less effective. It is for this reason that a large, strong line should not be chosen for catching small fish. A light line is also more sensitive to feel in the hand and helps the handliner determine whether the bait is being played with, nibbled at by very small fish or taken into the fish's mouth without being swallowed. Striking the line too soon to secure the hook in the fish's mouth will lead to its escape. The feel or sensitivity of the line is important to achieving a successful catch.
Most fishermen use nylon (polyamide) for their handlines. Three main types are suitable: braided, twisted and monofilament (Figure 2).

Figure 2. Types of twine: (a) braided; (b) twisted; (c) monofilament


In theory, the fish weighs very little when it is in the water, and the load on the line will depend on how large the fish is, how much it struggles and the speed with which it is pulled up.
Assuming that the maximum load you expect to pull is 15 kg, then considering the jerk you give to the line and the additional force the fish will give in trying to break away, you must use a line capable of taking three times that load without breaking, i.e. 45 kg. This means that the knotted breaking strength of the line must be 45 kg in water, as it has to be knotted to tie the line to the sinker and also to tie the branch lines or the snoods to the main line. The dry breaking strength of a line is the force measured in kilograms that is needed to break the line when it is dry and is pulled straight without a knot. When the line is wet and has a knot or knots, much less force is needed to break it.
Now look at Tables 1 to 3, which give the breaking strength of several thicknesses of twisted, monofilament and braided nylon twine. The wet knotted figure should be used in choosing the twine. The tables also show how many metres of such twine should be in 1 kg, so that the correct amount of twine can be purchased.
From Table 1 you will see, as an example, that twisted twine of 210/21 denier is 0.80 mm thick and when wet and knotted has only 18 kg breaking strength or breaking load. Monofilament twine of the same thickness, 0.80 mm, has less breaking strength, only 15 kg, when wet and knotted (Table 2). You will also note that if you purchase 1 kg of 0.80 mm twine you will get about 1 850 m of twisted twine (Table 1) but only 1 670 m of monofilament twine (Table 2).
Let us take another example. Look at a thicker twine suitable for larger fish and deeper water. Twisted twine of 210/60 denier is 1.5 mm thick and has a wet knotted breaking strength of 47 kg, but monofilament of the same thickness has only 46 kg breaking strength and braided twine of the same thickness 44 kg breaking strength.
You will also note that if you purchase 1 kg of each different 1.5 mm twine, then you will receive 590m of twisted, 490 m of monofilament but 740 m of braided twine. Therefore, if there is a choice, it is advisable to check the prices per kilogram and compare the costs of the desired length before deciding what to buy.

Originated by: Fisheries and Aquaculture Department
http://www.fao.org/

Text: B. A. Bjarnason
Illustrations: M. Carlesi

The designations employed and the presentation of material in this publication do not imply the expression of any opinion whatsoever on the part of the Food and Agriculture Organization of the United Nations concerning the legal status of any country, territory, city or area or of its authorities, or concerning the delimitation of its frontiers or boundaries.

David Lubin Memorial Library Cataloguing in Publication Data
Bjarnason. B.A.
Handlining and squid jigging
(FAO Training Series, no. 23 )
ISBN 92-5-103100-2

* When To Strike

image from : http://www.destination360.com/

Fishing includes a knowledge of when to strike to set the hook firmly in the mouth of the fish. Figure 36 gives an interpretation of what happens underwater when the fish encounters the bait.
First the predator approaches the live bait (Figure 36a). Next the predator immobilizes the bait fish with a bite to the backbone (Figure 36b). Note that the hook is nowhere near the fish's mouth, but the handliner will feel this as a bite. Then the predator flicks the bait fish from its mouth to take it again from the head on the turn (Figure 36c). The predator now swallows the bait fish (Figure 36d); the dorsal fins lie down and do not stick in the predator's throat. Now is the time to jerk the line to catch the fish. If you strike at b or c, the fish will escape.
Know how your fish will take the bait in order to jerk the line at the right moment. You will learn more about each particular fish by looking at where the hook is embedded.
Other ways fish will take bait:
• Small fish nibble bait that is too large for them to take whole. Either reduce the size of the bait and hook to catch the smaller fish or keep rebaiting the hook hoping a large fish will come along. Small fish nibbling at bait may attract the attention of a larger fish.
• Some fish will just snatch at the bait with no preliminary investigations.
• Some fish, such as mullet, have soft mouths. While these fish may take the bait, they are difficult to land with a handline as the hook comes out. However, if fishing especially for these fish, a much smaller hook can be used which is taken into the gullet (stomach) and then struck home. This is a technique that can be used to catch much larger fish, but the hook must be of the strongest material available.
Figure 36. Fish taking a live bait





Originated by: Fisheries and Aquaculture Department
http://www.fao.org/

Text: B. A. Bjarnason
Illustrations: M. Carlesi

The designations employed and the presentation of material in this publication do not imply the expression of any opinion whatsoever on the part of the Food and Agriculture Organization of the United Nations concerning the legal status of any country, territory, city or area or of its authorities, or concerning the delimitation of its frontiers or boundaries.
David Lubin Memorial Library Cataloguing in Publication Data

Bjarnason. B.A.
Handlining and squid jigging
(FAO Training Series, no. 23 )
ISBN 92-5-103100-2