* End Weighting Means Control

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By Ken Mack

Control wins in NASCAR. The ability to draft and “trade paint” while jockeying for position. The dominance of one team over another.

Control is an underlying force that breeds success in everything we do, fishing included. We see it in skilled fly anglers as they strip line and precariously place poppers in the pads. In seasoned jiggers, as they deftly tick lead across rocks and timber without snagging, yet remain able to decipher the slight nip of a walleye. Surprising to some, though, might be the fact that control is equally as meaningful to a bobber fisherman.

Control means hanging bait at a precise depth, as well as balancing a float to where the sniff of a bluegill makes it plunge. It’s taking a seemingly elementary bobber and building it into a system, a controlled system that can pry any species from any depth regardless of the time of year. And it all begins with End Weighting.

Fleshed to its core, end weighting is the combining of meat and mass. The hook and weight become one, yielding no mystery of depth or margin of error, but instead transferring control to the angler. It can be achieved in one of two ways: Firstly, the hook and weight can be married in the form of a jig. The hook is now the sinker. Both the float and jig linger endlessly in known and fixed positions.

End weighting is also achievable with split-shot sinkers pinched above a plain hook. The average bobber-user will span some 12 to 18 inches between sinkers and hook. The belief is that by allocating such a generous swim range that the bait is more likely to attract suitors. Not necessarily so. Struggling foodstuffs, especially minnows, will tire and eventually die from the stress. In end weighting, it’s wisest to lay only an inch or two between the hook and shot. As unlikely as it may seem, that allows plenty of scope for the bait to dance seductively, all the while maintaining constant depth.

Too many inches between the weight and bait also promote tangling. During the cast, the bobber, weight, and bait orbit at various speeds, ultimately colliding and weaving with one another.

Total control also involves knowledge of depth. The angler must know exactly where the offering is at all times. If the distance between the float and bait is adjusted to 5 feet, you’re assured the bait is 5 feet below the surface. No inconsistencies triggered by a rambunctious minnow or leech, as would occur with a non-end weighted presentation.

Absolute control concerns balance as well. Balance in the dominion of end weighting and float fishing is often referred to as neutral buoyancy. In essence, matching the weight and bait to the buoyancy properties of your bobber. The goal is to load the bait so the bobber scarcely stays afloat – it’s treading water but still visible. Consequently, even the gentlest bite causes the bobber to descend or at minimum skew from its natural position.

Control also entails the governing of vertical and horizontal space. Casting distance is your vehicle of horizontal exposure. Waters between you and where the bobber comes to rest constitute the horizontal plane. Vertical coverage area – column of water – is addressed by the float’s depth setting and your aptitude to jig. Yes, jig. First and foremost, a bobber is a strike indicator. It notifies the angler that something is going on below. But if end weighted and rigged as a slip bobber, a float also performs as a jigging platform. When line is pulled through the float – reeling or jerking – the bobber-stop slides up and away, consequently raising the presentation a corresponding distance. So if the bobber stop is jigged 3 feet and the float – jigging platform – remains in position, the lure then rises 3 feet, yielding greater vertical coverage. This principle allows you to explore an expanded vertical area, as well as draw fish by way of the lure’s action.

Truthfully, it’s as easy to pick apart a 6 foot deep weed flat as it is a 30 foot basin.

Let’s apply the concepts of end weighting and controlled bobber fishing to something tangible, say springtime crappies. Imagine that you’re attacking a shallow bay. The zone under scrutiny is a 6 foot deep stump filled area with newly emerging vegetation.

Your jig, bait – wax worms, minnow, or soft plastic – and float are composed to neutral buoyancy. Go ahead and set the bobber stop to 4 feet and cast beyond your targeted area. During the retrieve, mix slow reels, pauses, and a few tugs. Again, using the float as a jigging platform, make the jig rise 1 to 3 feet. The presentation ascends and falls in an attractive display, however remains under your complete control. Each cast probes a wide swath between you and where the bobber initially landed. Motor along and continue the process. When a strike occurs, the jigging platform reverts back into a strike indicator and beckons you to set the hook.

A similar scenario unfolds in the presence of walleyes. Suppose that you’re banging the deep transition area of an extended underwater point. You’ll need to upgrade jig size and make a move to minnows, crawlers or leeches. The top of the structure is 12 feet deep with a sharp break that bottoms-out at 20 feet. Set your bobber stop at 19 feet and hurl it onto the 12 foot crown. The bait will begin its quest on the bottom, where a walleye might vacuum it right up. But if not, crank down on the reel a few times. (Had a fish slurped the jig you’d feel its weight.) Continue to work the bait across the 12 foot area. Once off the apex and break, the float will right itself. The bait’s now hovering over a critical area. Let it sit awhile. She’s in a good spot and the live bait is laboring on your behalf. But if nothing filches it, drag the float slowly towards the boat, incorporating pauses along the way. On the following cast you’ll want to integrate a few jerks, raising the jig 1 to 3 feet above its fixed position. Control is with you. A walleye should soon be in the boat.

Choosing a suitable bobber is also important to building an end weighted system. The market place is flooded with slip-bobbers, many of which suffice, but none perform better than the Rocket Bobber. To maximize coverage of horizontal space, the Rocket Bobber is powerful for its size, casting like a surface to water missal. It can be end weighted and rigged as a slip-bobber without cutting the line, or clipped-on and fished traditionally. For end weighting, the large Rocket Bobber is designed to perform with a 1/8 ounce weight and the smaller version a 1/16 ounce weight. In clip-on mode, the Rocket Bobber – fishing for panfish with a light lure – is designed to lay flat on the water. When a fish inhales the bait, the bobber begins standing upright. Set the hook! Now that’s sensitive…

Float fishing needn’t be relegated to dock fishing and partygoers on pontoons. End weighting is a meaningful tool that matches wits with the most high-tech tactics on the water, and it’s easy to do as well.

The astounding Rocket Bobber is available at sporting goods retailers and bait shops nationwide. If your local fishing dealer doesn’t handle them, contact Tackle 2000 Inc. at PO Box 541, Tomahawk, WI 54487-0541. Call Tackle 2000 at 715.224.2229 or visit their website at www.tackle2000.com.

This Fishing Article is brought to you by Noel Vick with On Ice Tour
Please visit this Website for more information.

Source article http://www.walleyehunter.com/

* Plastic Baits for Fall Walleyes

image from : melbournefishing.wordpress.com

by Colin D. Crawford

Many devoted walleye chasers wouldn't think of going after their favorite fish without a good supply and wide variety of live bait. Minnows of various sizes and species, leeches and nightcrawlers are all proven favorites of glassy-eyed fish. However, there are times when plastic baits will be just as productive and easier to use than the live stuff.

Most walleye anglers are familiar with plastic bodied jigs like the Foxee or Lipstick. These jigs have subtle action bodies and are excellent finesse jigs. The plastic bodies I have in mind have larger bodies and much more tail action.

Plastic baits are productive year 'round but I really like them during warm weather. When the water is warm, fish are frequently more willing to chase a bait. A plastic bait can be moved quickly, so more water can be covered. The more water you cover, the more walleyes you'll have the opportunity to catch.

A jig heavier than normal is required to move the bait along at a quick pace. Quarter and three-eights ounce heads are the sizes I use the most with plastics in warm weather, but eighth ounce heads are used in a variety of circumstances also.

Walleyes will frequently spread out over shallow flats or on points. When they do so, try front-trolling at a fairly quick clip. Tie on a jig and plastic trailer heavy enough to stay near the bottom as the boat moves along. As the trolling pass is made, sweep the rod so the bait jumps, then falls back to the bottom. A six foot medium heavy action spinning rod with eight to ten pound test will be about right.

At times, walleyes can be found over the tops of cabbage weeds, especially during low-light periods. At other times they'll suspend along the deep edge of the cabbage. These are the times when eighth ounce heads come into play. Especially the bullet shaped heads that are on Foxee jigs, because they tend to slide through the weeds and can be ripped when they become stuck, triggering a strike from a fish. Swim the jig and the tail combo over the tops of the weeds, then let it fall along the deep edge. This technique can be very productive.

Plastic lures play an important part in three way rigging on rivers. The common three way or Wolf River rig is one of the oldest and most effective means of keeping a bait near the bottom while trolling upstream. Comprised of six pound test main line and leader, a small three way swivel, a lead sinker and an assortment of super sharp hooks, upstream rigging is very popular on large rivers like the Mississippi, Illinois, St. Croix, and Missouri.

Plastic grubs or Power Baits can also be easily added to a Wolf River rig. I prefer to add the smaller panfish style curly tail grubs to floating jig heads to give it more action and added color. Dressing up a #1 or #2 Aberdeen worm hook with a three or four-inch twister tail is another excellent way to add plastic to your 3-way rig.

Power Grubs and Power Worms, especially the new "Neonz" and " Tournament Strength" are good examples of plastic baits with action tails that are extremely productive. The three and four inch sizes are the best for walleyes, although two inch Grubs can be good with fish that are finicky. Go with the larger baits when a slow fall is desired or when the walleyes are active.

Experiment with color combinations. Be sure to try a pink head/white tail or orange head/chartreuse tail patterns. These have been good for me, but so have a lot of other combinations. Above all, be sure to try plastic, action tail baits, when conditions are right, they'll put a few extra fish in the boat.

Also, if you are interested in a guided trip, a personal media interview, or photo shoot, please call 715-545-8347. I am located in Phelps, Wisconsin area, close to several fishing lakes. Remember NPAA #94. See you on the water this season.

This Fishing Article is brought to you by Colin D. Crawford

* Ready….Set…..Go!!!

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By Tom Lester

Memorial Day weekend came and went, as it always does but for my family, things were a bit different this year. Usually, we spend what most folks refer to as the beginning of summer, with my father at his place on beautiful Lake Quachita just out of Hot Springs, Arkansas. This year, we were not so fortunate. My youngest daughter, Tatum, had a Camp Fire outing planned with her group, so we couldn’t make the trip. Although we were disappointed, there was one thing about the trip I did not miss, wasted time at the boat ramp. Let me explain.

Each year, thousands of folks across the country see Memorial Day weekend as the time of year to knock the dust off the boat or personal watercraft (PWC) and head out to their favorite lake or river for a day on the water with family, friends or simply by themselves. Unfortunately, just getting the dust off of the boat doesn’t mean it is "sea worthy" and can lead to a great deal of frustration and aggravation.

Each year at my dad’s place we get up and head to the ramp early on Saturday morning for some fishing. Without fail, the ramp is crowded with boaters of all dimensions. Normally, this would not be a big problem, but on Memorial Day weekend, it certainly can be. This is when a majority of folks take their boats out for the first time only to discover that not only is the boat no where near "sea worthy," it won’t even start. This is where the problem begins.

Rather than be considerate of others waiting to use the boat ramp and move out of the way, they stay on the ramp, for what seems like an eternity, trying to get their boat to crank or operate correctly. This is frustrating for the boat owner and aggravating for those waiting to get their boat, which will start, into the water. Although any mechanical device can fail to start, most of the time this situation can be avoided eliminating the frustrations and aggravations aforementioned.

A little bit of time and perhaps some well-spent money can usually prevent these types of problems. If you do not use your boat throughout the year and store it during the winter months, it is a good idea to have your boat or PWC winterized by a professional marine mechanic, if you do not know how to do it yourself. This can save tremendous headaches and perhaps a great deal of money for repairs in the spring or summer when you are ready to use your boat again.

So, you didn’t winterize your boat, the best thing you can do at this point is to take it to a marine mechanic and have it checked out or summerized. Your mechanic can check your batteries, all of your fluid levels and make sure your boat will start, BEFORE heading to the lake. The mechanic should also check out your water pump, bilge pumps, fuel system, electrical system, all necessary safety equipment and lights to make sure they are functioning properly. He might even notice and remind you that your trailer registration tags and boat numbers are out of date and need to be current before heading out to the water, thus saving your even more money in fines from the local authorities.

I use my Ranger bass boat all year for both pleasure fishing and tournament fishing. From time to time I need to have minor repairs made to my boat. If I am at a B.A.S.S. tournament location, I use the service trailers the manufacturers send to the tournament sites. If I am at home and need some work done, I will go see Blake at Blake’s Boat Repair here in Corsicana, Texas. He is up to date on the latest technology, equipment and tips for keeping a boat in good running condition. If you haven’t had your boat checked out recently, go by and see Blake. He might save you a lot of worries on your next water outing.

As for the girl’s (my wife and daughters) PWC, I have it winterized by Kenneth Napp over at Cedar Creek Watersports in Gun Barrel City, Texas each fall prior to storing it for the winter. Just before we take it out to Richland-Chambers or Cedar Creek for an afternoon of fun in the late spring or early summer, Kenneth will come by the house and carry it to his shop to get itready for the summer. It has always been money well spent.

I learned a long time ago that even though I have a background and education in mechanics, there are some things better left to the experts to keep my stuff running properly and keep me out of hot water with the girls (if their PWC won’t run). Blake and Kenneth are just the guys the doctor ordered.

A good friend of mine in Cedar Hill, Texas told me when I purchased my first bass boat many years ago that a boat is nothing more than a hole in the water you throw money into. In some ways, Ricky Simms was right. Spending money on having your boat in top working condition is the exception to the rule, in my opinion. Plan ahead of time and spend a little money getting your boat checked out before heading to the water. It will be money well spent.

Like I said, I missed a lot of things not being able to go to my dad’s for our annual Memorial Day weekend, but sitting in line at the ramp waiting on ill-prepared boaters is not one of them. Be a good boy, scout that is, be prepared.

Until next time, enjoy the Texas outdoors

Source from : http://www.activeangler.com/

* Jigging Fall Muskies

image from : ratemyfish.com

Muskie Fishing Tips - Jigging Fall Muskies

Author: Robert Phillips

Most anglers think big when hunting lunker muskie, but if you want to catch more muskie think smaller baits and tackle. I caught my biggest muskie while fishing walleye with a plastic worm in September. More often than can be coincidental people catch a muskie while fishing other species. Most anglers look to heavy tackle, large baits and trolling as the way to catch muskies. Personally I become bored or just tired of trolling all the time.


Now one of my most successful tactics used especially in the fall is used for fishing large walleye and at the same time muskies. I use medium size tackle and large walleye baits especially jigs. Fishing weed lines, drop offs and shoals as you would for walleyes will also attract as many muskies as walleyes. The first time I realised this I did have some success for large walleyes and had just caught and released a nice 7 pounder that was followed to the boat by a large muskie.


The only change I made was to make sure I was using wire leads and good stong swivels. Using 6 inch plastics worked just fine and the result was a fun great day of fishing. In all the two of us caught and released 9 walleyes from 5 to 8 pounds plus 5 muskies all in the 15 to 20 pound range. Although not the lunker; that most muskie hunters look for. But it proved to me that the muskie can be caught on lighter tackle and smaller baits.


Conventional thinking tells us that in the fall; the remaining muskie, are large, therefore bigger is better. However, my experience is that smaller baits are often the perfect morsel for that elusive muskie.


Equipment And Presentation


When I say smaller baits I am referring to large or oversized walleyes jigs. As mentioned this approach evolved on a body of water with a large population of large walleye. Now using the idea that big baits means big fish or walleye. I began tossing 5 to 6 inch plastic shad-bodied jigs along weed lines. I landed a number of big walleye, but to my surprise, the muskie were also going for the same bait. The big plastic jigs became an important part of my muskie fishing arsenal. All large plastics work just fine.


Colour seems less important than creating a real flash. Two-toned baits, mainly dark and light combinations, create more flash when drawn through the water. Adding some metal flake also ads that extra flash. Just experiment and you will find a combination that will work for you and get that strike you want.


Generally I use ball-head or stand-up-head jigs with medium gauge wire hooks. It's surprising how well a single hook can handle even a large muskie. Often you will hook the fish in the gristly flesh in the corner of the mouth. Jigs also make landing and releasing muskie easier; there are then no large treble hooks flopping around to damage the fish or you. Deeply hooked fish can be released by clipping off the hook with pliers.


Single strand wire leaders seem to work best especially along weed beds. I use a hay-wire- twist to attach the wire to the jig head at one end and a small swivel at the other. Watch for kinks in the wire, but these leaders are more weedless than the standard models because of the snaps and swivels.


I prefer a medium action 6-foot spinning rod and a reel spooled with 12 to 14 pound test monofilament. A medium-heavy bait-casting outfit also does the trick, in both cases make sure the drag is working properly.


Even if you prefer the conventional approach, keep a lighter outfit close at hand for when muskie follow, but don't hit, or they strike short. Using lighter tackle and a jig is also a good approach when there are two of you fishing muskie. One angler throws conventioinal baits, and the other throwing jigs. Then you are always ready to react to follows and misses.


Vary the speed of your retrieve when jigging up muskie. I have had luck in late fall, by using violent rip-jigging motion. It's tiring, but effective. Experiment and you will find something that works for you.


When battling a muskie on light tackle, be careful not to fight it to exhaustion, thereby increasing the chance of delayed death if you plan on catch and release. Ideally, you should release a fish by simply grasping the single hook with a pair of needle nosed pliers, while it's in the water at the side of the boat. Cut off the hook if the fish is hooked deeply. Muskie fisheries are a fragile resource, so do your best to release that muskie no worse for wear. Now next season that muskie will be ready to fight another day and make that day a great day for another angler.

About the Author:

Rob Phillips has been an avid Canadian angler for over 50 years. Fishing Canada provides solid advice for walleye, bass, pike, muskie, a variety of trout, arctic char bass and more. Idea's on when and where to go on your next trip to Canada. Ice fishing tips. Delicious fish recipes also!

Article Source: http://www.articlesbase.com/sports-and-fitness-articles/muskie-fishing-tips-jigging-fall-muskies-54962.html

* Snook Fishing

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By Capt. Robert McCue

There’s no question that fishing for snook when the bite is on, has more to offer than any other type of fishing in Florida. Then again, when snook fishing conditions are off, you are better off fishing for other Florida gamefish. Let's take a look at Florida snook and our snook fishing charters...perhaps you too have what it takes to be a relentless Florida snooker.



Snook. Just the name strains even the imagination. Living in a jungle of snags or on open water Florida sugar-sand beaches, striking like marauding tuna or with the elegance of dining royalty, walking on water or slugging it out deep, there is nothing common about the Common Snook- except the animal's natural beauty and the memories the fish leaves with you after the fight.



Snook are sub-tropical fish and are most common to Central America. Historic changes in the earth's weather is what brought the snook to Florida. It is believed that during a great warming trend after the Ice Age, snook moved northward along the Mexico shoreline. They followed the perimeter of the Gulf of Mexico, down the West Coast of Florida and up the East Coast. Since then, continued changes in the weather patterns have just about eliminated the population north of Homosassa on the West Coast and Port Canaveral on the East Coast of Florida.



Snook are complicated animals. Among other things they are highly temperature sensitive. Like other fish they are cold-blooded animals, meaning they rely on the temperature of the water to heat their bodies. The snook's comfort range is between 68 degrees Fahrenheit to 78 degrees Fahrenheit. Anything outside that range and the fish become sluggish and inactive. Much below the lower range is a real matter of concern to the snook. Snook cannot tolerate sudden changes much below 60 degrees. Below 58 degrees snook are in danger of dying. A sudden blast from Jack Frost is a sure death sentence. We have learned just recently that if the water slowly falls below 58 degrees, snook can acclimate and survive. For how long and how much they can handle is uncertain. Thanks to warmer weather patterns over the last decade, Florida is enjoying some great snook fishing. Understanding weather, temperature, and periods of daylight are essential to catching this sleek gamefish. I believe more so than other fish we hunt on our Florida fishing charters, snook are the most temperamental to the elements.



Though snook don't actually migrate or "run'' on the West Coast of Florida, they do make great movements throughout their range. These movements are more of an east and west direction than north and south on the Florida Gulf Coast.



During the winter, snook move to areas of warmer water. Rivers and deep creeks feature freshwater run-offs and springs that seep water from the earth at a comfortable 72 degrees. Deep water canals and ship ports offer an insulation blanket. Slower to cool, snook can use these man-made holes to stay away from the rapid cooling of the bays and the Gulf. Florida power plants and their warm- water discharges offer a great refuge to winter snook lucky enough to find them.

Adopted From : http://www.activeangler.com/flyfishing-articles/mccue-snook.shtml

* Bass Fishing Lures

image from learninghowtofish.com

Get to know more about Bass Fishing Lures Bass fishing has evolved to a near cult popularity with so many anglers through the years that there have been so many products made, clubs formed, and articles written about it. Here you will read about the types of Bass fishing lures you can use to catch them. Also, there is also a list on the necessary equipments to have when going bass fishing. The type of bass that will bite almost anything is the largemouth bass. Minnows, worms, or other live bait, plus poppers or streamers presented with a fly rod, or plugs thrown from a casting or spinning rod are ways where they can be caught. Since bass is usually associated with weeds, a weedless bait will often be necessary.

Morning and evening are the best fishing times when warm months come. They usually like to stay in warm water and warm weather. There is only little bite during winters. Smallmouth bass pound for pound are the scrappiest fish of all fresh water bass. They are usually associated with a rocky stream or lake environment where its favorite food, the crayfish, is plentiful. The best lake fishing takes place in the month in June and just after, the spawning season, and in early fall. Natural lure like hellgrammites, dragonfly larvae and crayfish are especially useful during early morning or late evening. Most likely, the best artificial lures are those who are used on the surface. Light tackle is ideal. Fish quietly, casting toward rocks or logs, keeping the rod tip up and the line tight. Many fishermen debate on the colors used for their lures. This may vary on the bass fish that is to be caught. Fishing requires more than just a simple fishing rod and some lure for serious fisherman.

People who fish for leisure are those who fish because it’s their hobby, they can have some tools and accessories that will help them make it easier and be able to catch more fish. Here are some suggested tools for starters that will help them improve in catching fish :

• Fishing Rod. The most important piece of equipment and should be chosen with care. A basic rod-and-reel set is enough for beginners. It is necessarily important to have more featured materials. The most important is that you should learn how to use the rod and be comfortable to it before moving into another difficult type of equipment. Professional fisherman can experiment different types of rod for them to know what works best for them. When buying a fishing rod, know before you enter the store what kind of fishing you'll be doing, and under what conditions. Rods come from different varieties of materials, from wood laminates to fiberglass to carbon fiber. Rod handles should fit securely in your palm, and practice casting with the rod, to test how flexible and easy to use it is. In addition have the proper length of the rod. For using lighter lure, or catching tiny fish, a 4 inch to 6 inch rod is advisable to use. For using larger lure, which gets larger fishes or casting longer distances, a rod of at least 6 inches may be required.

• Waders. It is a water- resistant covering you wear over your pants to keep them dry so you can wade out into the water. A lot of are made like overalls, covering the chest and the legs, and with boots attached, for ultimate defense. Make sure the boots are warm and secure, to supply better balance while walking on wet rocks.

• Fishing Vest. Contains several pockets for storing fish equipments and your hands are free to manage the fishing rod. Also, should you have to wade out into the water, wearing a vest will let you to have all of your gear with you at all times. Make a decision beforehand which gear is necessary; if you store too much in the vest, it may make it too heavy to wear, which could bring you down.

• Tackle Box or Fly Box. In fishing it requires a lot of supplies and you need a something big to store all your gears. Spend in a durable tackle box, in which you can store your entire lure, keeping it easily to get to. Styles are classified into simple and inexpensive, and large and costly. Fishermen may only need something small, but the more advanced fishermen may want something handier. Furthermore, you should consider a fly box. Small enough to fit a vest pocket and allows you to keep them with you as needed.

Effective lures for bass fishing Many say and believe that a bass fisherman is only as good as his Bass Fishing lures. Well, this is fifty per cent true to some circumstances; because in reality, a great bass fishing lure is useless unless you know how to use it. There are accurately thousands of different bass fishing lures available all around the world and chances at the local bait and tackle shop doesn't make all of the variety of lures available to you. Lets accept the fact that the world of bass fishing changes nearly every day, trends come and go, and if the attack that you usually knew will always be the attack you’ll going to use is from twenty years ago, well it’s time to let your self escape in traditional way of hunting bass.

There are many kinds of bait that looks like a fish, exactly look like one, topwater, lightest lure that can able to float in the water, the worms that attract bass for them to think that they are just a worm, the jerk baits that is usually in light color, the craw cranks who look like a small crab, the crank baits that look like a fish with a long mouth and lastly, the buzz bait that releases a noise that calls the bass for it will be in attraction. High Roller Fishing Lures (salt water) trigger explosive strikes in the open saltwater flats, possesses the ability to finesse trophies from oyster lined creek channels as well as shallow mangrove lagoons. In saltwater, High Roller Fishing Lures deliver thrilling action, strength, cast ability and the durability needed to catch Bull Redfish, Gator Spotted Sea Trout, Massive Snook, Monster Kingfish, Tarpon, Bluefish, Spanish mackerel, Stripers, Amberjack and Jack Crevalle. The Original High Roller, a custom-walking lure, spooks the competition. Designed for exceptionally long casting, the Original High Roller is possibly the most versatile fishing lure we make. The Pop Roller is a delicate Trout, Snook and Redfish bait, ideal for calm conditions and creek channel fishing. The Chug Roller, with its echoing, deep chug, calls fish from great depths triggering acrobatic strikes. The Rip Roller series is the most often lure of fishermen, because it sales almost double than other lure. Due to the noise that the prop makes when ripped thru the water, it totally rips the competition, the Crank Roller and the Wiggle Roller round out the series with un-paralleled buoyancy, flash and structure bumping reactions.

The High Roller (freshwater) is designed for professional fisherman, High Roller fishing lures are proven tough and performance tested. Originally made for Largemouth and Smallmouth bass, High Roller offers poppers, aggressive walking baits, noisy crank baits and world-class prop baits that outperform, out-cast and out-catch the competition. There are also the so called Classic Bass Fishing Lures, like the Pro Series Jig, it is weedless designed with dual rattles, the Pro Series Spinner Baits a premium plated blades, the Tournament Series Spinner Bait it is commonly used while in a tournament, and lastly the Clacking Buzz Bait it is the noisiest buzz bait that is existing around the world. Lures are important in bass fishing for it is the life and the link of the fishermen to the bass. It creates a big connection to them that in line in fishing. This lure may be the cause of the last breath of the http://www.blogger.com/img/blank.giffish who dares to eat them and it is also the start of one person to consider him/her self as a fishermen.

Adopted From http://www.luremaking.info/articles.htm