* Wireline Trolling For Bass by Arthor Pens

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Wireline Trolling For Bass by Arthor Pens

Wireline trolling is a technique that is used by many thousands of New Englanders every year to catch striped bass. It can be very productive if you know what your doing, but many people think you simply put the line out and motor around in your boat to catch fish, and are surprised when they see others catch fish after fish in the same area and apparently doing the same thing and even using the same rig. Well, there must be something different. Knowing where the fish are holding, what their feeding on and the speed to troll at are just some of the considerations to take into account.

Where are the Fish. You have to go where the fish are, not where you want them to be. You also have to go when the fish are there, not when you want them to be there. For any kind of Bass fishing, early morning is usually the best. Early in the season they may feed throughout the day, but as the season progresses and the sun gets higher in the sky you won't find them feeding during the day unless there is tide and a lot of bait or a weather pattern to entice them into activity. You may find them holding on structure and be able to catch them but its pretty certain that there is something in the way of food down there to keep them interested. If the fish are holding on structure, you have to present your offering over that structure, if you are off by 50' there is no joy. If you are trolling and mark and catch fish, turn around and keep going over the spot until you stop catching. Don't go trolling away unless your damn sure there is something better to head to. And! don't spend too much time trolling around a spot and not catching.

Tides and currents. Bass are ambush predators and a current will provide them with the opportunity to lay in wait for a small creature to be swept past their position so they can gobble it up. It is the current generated by the tides you need to pay attention to. An example of this would be the Block Island North reef. The currents there provide areas which bass like to use as ambush points, and some of these are places to troll wireline.

Trolling Speed. Never troll at the same speed all the time if it isn't working. Often fish will follow your offering and are waiting for that trigger that tells them that their prey has detected them. Speed up, slow down, change speeds, speed up during your turns. You will be surprised how many times you hook up fish immediately or very soon after a speed change. Sometimes only going at a particular slow speed works, or a particularly fast speed. The most important thing to do is pay attention to what is going on when you hook up. You need to notice if it is always during a speed change, only when you go fast, only when you go very slow, etc. If you speed up and turn, and the inside line picks up a fish, you may not have enough line out since the inside line will usually go deeper, the outside line shallower.

Current can be used to control your speed. If you want to go very slow, troll directly into the current. There is one area I fish trolling to the same spot and slowing down as the boat gets near it, going into the current. At times we are barely moving forward, and when I reach the spot on my GPS one or both rods will go down with fish on (tide is very important in this case.) There are times when you will catch most of your fish only trolling in one direction in relation to the current. Pay attention to what is happening when you hook up.

Trolling Depth. This is extremely important. Your depth finder can mark a million fish below 30' but if your trolled rig is only 20' deep you will end up being very frustrated and catching very few fish. Your offering must be presented in the "strike zone", which is the area close enough that the fish will be interested in hitting your lure. This strike zone can be very large when fish are feeding aggressively, or very small if they are "turned off".

If you see fish smashing bait on the surface, try letting out a small amount of wireline and troll around the feeding fish, not through the middle of them. So many fisherman shut down the fishing very quickly by trolling through the middle of breaking fish. It is the most idiotic thing they can do. You need to have the lure down near the bottom if you are targeting Bass that aren't feeding aggressively near the surface. If you are in water under 30' deep, it is only necessary to be within 5' of the bottom unless the fish are very sluggish. In deeper water. light penetration becomes an issue and it is necessary to get as close to the bottom as you can without dragging.

The rule of thumb is to let out 10 feet of wire for every 1' of depth. This is varied by boat speed and the weight of your lure. Naturally, going slower will cause the rig to go deeper and fast will cause it to run shallower. Remember, if you aren't dragging bottom once in a while, you're trolling too shallow.

Matching the Hatch. You need to troll an offering which is representative of what the fish are feeding on. If there are hordes of sand eels then you shouldn't be trolling 6" soft plastic shads. Bass most often eat bunker, sand eels, and squid. Lures that represent these species are ones you should have available to you. If you catch a keeper, open up its stomach and see what it has been feeding on.

Sport Fishing. This is supposed to be a sport. Keeping the boat in gear and continuing to troll after you have hooked up a fish is winching, not fishing. I have seen so many bass skipping across the surface of the water as they are being reeled up, it's absolutely ridiculous. You should be fighting the fish and not the boat. Where is the fun in that? So the advice is take the boat out of gear after you hook up.

By following the guidelines presented here the reward will be more success for your fishing trips. The last and most important piece of advice when your not catching is this: remember to ask yourself: "what do I need to change?" Are you going too fast, using the wrong rig, trolling too shallow, etc. Watch what other people are doing, it may give you a clue. Catch 'em up!



The Author has been fishing Rhode Island Waters for years and runs a charter fishing service out of Jerusalem. For more info visit: http://www.adventurecharters.org

Article Source: http://www.articlesjust4you.com

Wiper Fishing Tips

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Wiper Fishing Tips

Author: Jay Bryce

The hybrid striped bass, or "wiper" is an artificial cross between a striped bass (Morone saxatilis) and a white bass (Morone chrysops). Hybridization of these two species does not occur naturally. Therefore, hybrid striped bass must be cultured in a fish hatchery situation. Hybrid bass can be distinguished from white bass by its two tooth patches on the tongue, as opposed to only one tooth patch on the white bass. As they grow older, hybrid bass become thicker and deeper-bodied, giving them a distinctive short and stocky appearance.

Hybrids may be found in a variety of habitats. In some lakes they may prefer fairly flat, shallow, sandy areas. In other lakes, typically the larger reservoirs, they may prefer the more rocky habitats located directly above or below the dams. Best fishing for hybrid striped bass occurs just after sundown or in the early morning just before sunrise. They are caught primarily on artificial baits which resemble gizzard shad. Imitation shad that rattle have proven to be successful at many lakes. In addition, many anglers have been successful using live bait such as night crawlers or soft craws.

Hybrids appear to be attracted to flowing water. Tailwater areas below dams are good fishing locations when water is flowing either through the spillway gates or turbines of the dam. Also, natural springs and the mouths of feeder creeks after heavy rains can attract hybrids.

The fish will usually not be in the fastest water, but off to the side waiting to ambush their prey (or your lure). Areas with current are productive throughout the year. Hybrids also travel up reservoir tributary streams right along with the white bass during April and May.

You can catch hybrids on a variety of artificial baits. In fast water situations, such as those encountered below dams, heavy spoons and jigs are popular baits. For areas with less current, imitation minnow baits and other crankbaits are effective. Hybrids also can be caught on shad, liver and a variety of insects.

Hybrids occupy distinct spots on structure, so trolling passes need to be exact. Anglers should line up shoreline objects and troll between them. Most strikes will come while trolling with the current because the fish like to hold on the down-current side of points.

During the summer months, you can catch hybrids by trolling deep-diving crankbaits over main lake points or near the edge where a flat drops off into the channel. The key is to get your lure to bounce bottom in 14 to 17 feet of water. This can be done by adding weight to your lure and by using a low stretch/small diameter line.

Hybrids occupy distinct spots on structure, so trolling passes need to be exact. Anglers should line up shoreline objects and troll between them. Most strikes will come while trolling with the current because the fish like to hold on the down-current side of points.

Seasonal Wiper Fishing Approaches

Spring: In faster water, such as tailwaters, use heavy spoons and jigs. In less current use imitation minnow baits and other crankbaits. As water warms fish may undergo spawning movement into upstream areas, try creek mouths up to headwaters or lowhead dams, and below dams in tailwaters of lakes and rivers.

Late Spring: Fish are hungry as they move back to lake or downstream areas. Try fishing baits at a variety of depths to locate fish. As fish return to lake or move downstream try creek mouths, deep points, and shallow flats

Summer: Live shad can be drift fished, trolled, fished below a balloon or float, or hung straight down on tightline. Other live or cut baits can be fished on bottom. Best fishing is dawn and dusk and overcast days. Deep lakes are now stratified and fish stay above the warm/cold water interface (thermocline) where there is oxygen. Watch for fish breaking the surface chasing shad and try fishing the "jumps". Fish points at creek mouths, underwater roadbeds, and humps in 10-15 feet near deeper water.

Fall: Cast spoons into schools of bait fish, troll shad-type crankbaits, cast flashy metal lures onto flats, or bottom fish cut bait or chicken livers. As water cools, fish will move shallower. Similar to spring, but watch for fish breaking the surface chasing shad.

Winter: Fish are in deeper water near river channels, humps, and tips of points. Vertical jig spoons and tail spinners. Use heavier baits based on current in the river. In lakes try deep points, and creek mouths, and below dams in tailwaters. In rivers try warm-water discharges and tailwaters.

Article Source: http://www.articlesbase.com/fishing-articles/wiper-fishing-tips-5397824.html

About the Author

Jay Bryce is a community manger at iFished.com (http://www.ifished.com/). iFished.com has fishing and local information for over 40,000 lakes and fishing areas in the United States. Information includes current weather and forecasts, best times fishing charts, maps, local businesses, Outdoor Store and more. iFished.com also has a large library of fishing videos, fishing articles and current fishing reports to help you catch more fish.

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Secrets To Trolling For Walleye

Author: Daniel Eggertsen

Anyone that has fished for walleye will tell you that trolling for walleye is a great way of catching the tasty fish. These individuals will also tell you it is a great way to get more than just a few.



Actually, by trolling it allows an individual to cover a larger area and have your bait in the water for a longer period of time, as being compared to simply cast into the water. Amazingly, walleye love to chase their food. So, in all fairness trolling at a slow speed will essentially attract a walleye faster than if an individual was continuously casting bait into the water. It is however important to know that going more than around three miles per hour will not catch walleye. The slower speed is what will catch the most walleye.



Something else of importance obviously is shallow water. If you are going to go trolling for walleye in shallow water be sure that the bait you are using is within three to five feet from the bottom during the day. The bait shouldn't be totally dragging on the bottom for several reasons, and the biggest reason is that it will get snagged. Another factor about dragging on the bottom is that the bait will actually take on a certain amount of debris. This will make it hard for the walleye to see or even be something the walleye would want to eat.



If this is the case, an individual won't have much luck at trolling for walleye because they simply won't see the bait, or the snagging of the bait will have the individual constantly stopping to attach more bait in order to continue trolling for the walleye.



Good trolling fish anglers that go after walleye all know that it's also important to check the bait quite a bit to make sure it is free of debris and other material.



And now, if an individual has the opportunity to be trolling for walleye in deeper water the adventure gets better. The idea or best strategy for this is finding the best water depth that is appealing to the walleye and where they are essentially hanging out. If for some reason after a period of time there is no bite or no action, then simply set the bait to another depth and see if this works better. If an individual is using more than one reel it is important to set the rod and reels a bit away from one another so as neither will get snagged on the other.



Another strategy that fish anglers use for trolling for walleye is basically a home method called board planing. This allows the reels to stay a certain distance away from each other, and then the problem of the reels or line being snagged is taken care of.



Many areas and locations have reasonable resources for trolling for walleye and there are many fishing anglers that do just that. The over all success rates for trolling for walleye as compared to fishing from the shore is much greater.

About the Author:

Dan Eggertsen is a fishing researcher and enthusiast who is committed to providing the best walleye fishing information possible. Get more information on walleye fishing while trolling here: http://www.askwalleyefishing.com/

Article Source: ArticlesBase.com - Secrets To Trolling For Walleye

* Collection Of Jig Fishing Tips

image tarponcharters.com

From Sam & Tim's Fishing Page

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When Is The Right Season For A Bass Jig?
Jigs are a top bass bait throughout the year and it's never a bad choice to use one. There are no magic lures of course, and some days a crankbait might work better, or a spinnerbait; it's up to that day's experience to tell you which. Jigs are great in cold water, when slow presentation is essential, or in delicate situations when bass are otherwise hard to catch. But don't think of jigs as strictly a cold-water bait. They also work exceptionally well in spring and summer. Use a bass jig anytime, anyplace with confidence.
There is no wrong season to use a bass jig. It can be worked in the variety of places bass are holding, in cold water drop-offs or around weed beds in late summer. Jigs are just a great bait a lot of fishermen don't use because they've never taken a little time to learn to use one.

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How To Retrieve Bass Jigs?
Bass jigs are worked slowly across the bottom, across structure and objects which might hold fish. Sometimes you might cast a jig into a good-looking location and let it settle a few moments before starting the retrieve. A bass will sometimes snatch up the bait where it lies.
But most bites occur when a jig is falling, either on the initial cast, or after a little jigging by the angler. A good way to imagine how to retrieve a bass jig is to imagine a cat responding to a ball of string being twitched across the floor. Work the jig slowly, with anticipation, as if bass were actually a cat hiding behind your living room couch, waiting to pounce on the bait.
Don't cast and retrieve jigs quickly, as with other baits. Each cast should take a little while. The strength of bass jigs is in their ability to be twitched and hopped along slowly, tempting a bass into taking the bait.
Bass jigs are great for going into heavy brush, and coming out with a fish attached. Don't be afraid to cast into fearsome-looking places with a bass jig, and retrieve the bait slowly, alert for strikes. Bass jigs are surprisingly snag-proof. If you do get into trouble, try jiggling the bait free instead of attempting to jerk it loose. It's uncommon to get snagged for good with a bass jig.

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Jig Sizes
Keep in mind two factors when selecting sizes.
• Smaller baits are generally best whenever they can be used.
• Being able to 'feel' the action of a jig is essential.

These two factors guide your choice of jig size. Remember smaller, slower baits and thinner line with low visibility will almost always catch more fish than their big counterparts. Keep this in mind when you select sizes. You want to use the lightest bait and line you can. But if you can't tell what's going on with your bait underwater because it's a windy day or there's a strong current, switch to a heavier jig. Or maybe you're fishing deep water and a light jig simply takes too long to sink. Use a jig as light as possible as long as you can still feel what's going on.
Heavier line affects the rate of fall of a jig: light line makes a jig fall faster, heavier line slower. If you can still feel the action of a 1/8-ounce jig on a particular day, keep using it. Don't be intimidated by someone else using a monster bait with the idea that big bass only take big baits.
In tough situations like after cold fronts, in the winter, or during heavy angling pressure, a light jig will out-produce a heavier one.

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Detecting Strikes
When a bass strikes a jig, often it's an uncertain sluggishness or gentle pull on your line. Sometimes your line feels lighter because the bass has lifted the bait. Remember that bass usually pick up the jig on the fall, so keep a tight, careful line between your jig and rod.
The strike differs from the feel of when a bass hits a spinner or plug bait which is often unmistakably hard, and the line seldom zips away, like when a bass picks up a plastic worm. Set the hook with a quick snap of the wrist (it doesn't need to be a wild exercise of the entire body like on the fishing programs). Set the hook anytime you feel something odd on the line-usually it's a fish. After a little practice you'll recognize strikes as surely as when a bobber goes under.

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What To Add To A Jig
Many of us know bass jigs as jig-n'-pigs because a pork rind trailer has been hooked onto the jig to create extra appeal. Usually these have been cut in a wedge shape like a frog, and these trailers are often called pork frogs. But pork eels can be productive as well, especially in deep water. All are sensitive to drying out, so if you quit fishing for a while, take it off the hook and replace it in the jar, or keep it wet otherwise.
Light jigs usually call for light pork rinds. The same goes for a dark jig, which usually gets a dark pork rind. Sometimes a local behavior trend will upset the cart and anglers will swear a strange light/dark combination is best right now, but stick to the old combination as a rule. If you have a dark blue jig, a black pork trailer might be appropriate.
Use a smaller trailer instead of a bigger one if you hope to get more bites. It seems bigger fish do like large trailers, but experiment for best results.
It's not wrong to skip adding a pork trailer altogether and to fish the bass jig just plain. Plain jigs will catch bass sometimes. But it's a little like baking a cake and not bothering to add icing-you're better off with something on it.
Plastic crawfish have become an increasingly popular trailer for jigs. The plastic claws stand up when the jig is resting on the bottom, since the crawfish is hooked onto the jig by the tail, and it adds a great appeal for jigs. Pick a small size for these trailers also, and follow the same color combination guide lines for pork frogs.

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Colors
As a rule, light colors are a good choice for bright sunny days. Dark colors are best for overcast days or at night. Often a particularly bright or unusual color with a dark combination will also work well on bright days. Strong sunlight is also a good condition for the sparkle of Mylar jigs. Bass will prefer certain colors at some locations under specific conditions-but minor color preferences are for every fisherman to argue about. Why someone might use a red-and-black jig over a red-and-brown jig is often a matter of preference.
Water clarity and waves also affect the amount of sunlight bass receive. Consider other factors besides clouds when picking out a color for your jig. For instance, a bright jig would be a good muddy-water choice, even on a cloudy day.

A Basic Color Guide



Source And Adopted From
timbaker@jal.cc.il.us
shouse@siu.edu
http://www.jal.cc.il.us/~timbaker/ctips.html