* Choosing a Trolling Motor

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Choosing a Trolling Motor
By Ted Koppel

How to decide what you need before you buy.

Choosing the right trolling motor doesn't have to be difficult
but it is important for safe and fun operation. A few things you
need to know before you buy. Do you plan on fishing fresh,
saltwater or both? If both or just saltwater, you need to choose
a motor designed to be used in saltwater. What will be the size
and type of boat you will be fishing from? What type of boat?
Bass boat, pontoon, flats boat, deep V, canoe, Jon Boat or
kayak. Is it fiberglass aluminum or wood? How heavy will your
boat, gear and fishing buddies be? Do you fish in a windy area
or an area where you encounter strong current or both?

All of these factors come into play when choosing the right
trolling motor. You should choose a motor based on your heaviest
weight and worst conditions. Anything less will just frustrate
you and ruin your fishing fun. The below table is suggested
thrust for boats of these lengths under the best conditions. We
suggest you increase the thrust for a heavier than normal load,
windy area or fishing in fast current conditions.

Boat Length/ Lbs. Thrust 12' 30lb | 13' 30lb | 14' 32lb | 15'
36lb | 16' 40lb | 17' 50lb | 18' 55lb 19' 65lb | 20' 70lb | 21'
74lb | 22' 101lb

Mounting: You need to decide if you are going to mount the
motor on the bow, transom or engine mount it. For most boats and
most fishing applications bow or transom will be the easiest and
most convenient. A bow mount works better if your boat can
accommodate that application. You will need room for the motor
mount and room to stand next to it while fish. A transom mount
works fine on a canoe, Jon boat or other small boat without a
bow fishing platform. An engine mount can be used on boats that
don't have any room for a bow or transom mount but are usually
only used on boats for trolling as they must be steered with the
helm or engine stick making them awkward for casting. You may
have noticed that all of the tournament fishermen use bow
mounts.

Voltage: Motors are available in three different voltages, 12,
24 and 36. The 24 and 36-volt batteries are a combination of 12
volt batteries hooked parallel. When using 24 or 36 volt motors
there is less amperes of draw and so the battery holds a charge
longer. The higher the voltage, the lower the amperes at the
same thrust setting. In most cases any boat over 13' should use
at least a 24 volt system. Boats in the 20' + range should
consider a 36 volt system. Batteries should be good quality deep
cycle batteries to withstand the constant discharging. Regular
cranking batteries will expire quickly from the often discharged
state.

The shaft length: Length is strictly determined by the height
above the water line of the bow or stern being mounted to. You
want enough shaft to put at least 6" of water over the
propeller. Remember; shaft length is adjustable on the motor so
don't get one that is just long enough. "Long shafts are better"

Speed and Steering Control: The most responsive is the hand
control. There are, however, 2 choices with a third possible add
on.With the hand control it can be difficult to control the boat
when you have a fish on. With a foot control you have to get
used to the delay in response but always have both hands free.
You can add an autopilot and have the advantage of the hand
control and still have both hands free while fighting a fish.

About the Author: Ted Koppel. For more information on trolling
motors be sure to visit http://www.efishbox.com

Source: http://www.isnare.com

Permanent Link: http://www.isnare.com/?aid=404449&ca=Advice

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Salt Water Fishing Lures - 5 Great Options For Salt Fishers

Author: Abhishek Agarwal
Salt water fishing lures are available in as many choices as there are for fresh water angling and maybe even more. What should be considered is that if you are fishing in salt water, the catch will be of a bigger and weightier variety and the equipment you need will also be larger as compared to the fresh water fishing gear. Marlins, sailfish and trophy fish are much larger and will need bigger lures.



1. Salt water fishing lures

You will need lures that will compatible to the different species of fish and even amongst the same species you would need different lures. Distinctive fishing lures for salt water could be utilized for different species of fish. Even within the same species you would need different lures for varying conditions like deep water, shallow water and according to the many seasons the feeding would have to be changed. You would also have to change the lure you are using according to the time of day and visibility factors.



2. The uses and variety of jigs

Like the lures you get a variety of jigs in different shapes and sizes and colors for salt water fishing. Salt water jigs are for fishing close to the bottom and for this reason they have to be heavier to that they can withstand the extreme tides and currents.



3. The types and uses of plugs

Lures that also work as plugs for salt water fishing are one of the chief items in the box of fishing equipment. These plugs are usually black or any other dark color so that they resemble the bait very closely. These plugs are made to resemble a smaller bait fish that is injured and dragged from side to side in such an effective way, like an injured bait fish that the larger fish are attracted to it and strike this plug forcefully.



4. Tins used to bait salt water fish

Tins are distinctive to lures that are used for salt water fishing, and are totally a very reflective lure in tin. These once again are made to look like a bait fish that is moving swiftly through the water in a very similar way to a bait fish, with the same sheen and reflection being caught in the water. There are some white feathers attached to the tail end so that it gives the movement of the tail a more authentic look and also adds more movement in the water around that area.



5. Lures that are made of plastic

Lures made of plastic could be in almost any color and could have two or three hooks. These could be made in one bit or could have many joints which would depend on the lure’s length and the kind of purpose it is going to be used for. Very realistic to look at, the lures that are made of plastic resemble baitfish and squid that are to be found in coastal regions, very closely. These plastic lures are used mostly for angling in inlets on the coast, along side the bays and when the baitfish are moving from deep to shallow waters or the other way around.

Just like the lures for freshwater, the lures used for salt water are also used in a similar manner to skip along the top layers of the water on the surface and lure the fish to the top. It is best to use these lures in calm waters either for angling from a boat or from the beach.
About the Author:
Abhishek is an avid Fishing enthusiast and he has got some great Fishing Secrets up his sleeves! Download his FREE 116 Pages Ebook, "Fishing Mastery!" from his website http://www.Fishing-Masters.com/772/index.htm . Only limited Free Copies available.
Article Source: http://www.articlesbase.com/fishing-articles/salt-water-fishing-lures-5-great-options-for-salt-fishers-776139.html

* Basic Elements Handline

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Swivels (Figure 8) are highly recommended at the junctions of the various elements of the handline, i.e to connect the snood to the mainline and the sinker to the mainline.
If you cannot buy swivels in your area, then take this booklet to the nearest blacksmith, show the following picture and ask the blacksmith to make a few for you.
The swivels should be made of steel, brass or copper. The main requirements are to make them strong enough and to have them be smooth where the attachment points meet for easy turning or swivelling.
To begin to assemble the handline, take the line and tie one end to a simple wind-on apparatus or a spool. You tie the line using one of the knots in Figure 9.
Figure 8. Different types of swivels



Next wind the twine on the spool.
Now you must find a piece of twine to use as a branchline. It does not have to be as strong as the mainline, but if you do not have a separate branchline material then you can cut three pieces off the end of your mainline, each piece about 60 cm long, and use these for branchlines.
Figure 9. Knots used to tie the line: (a) bowline knot for spun, twisted or braided twine; (b) Japanese fisherman's knot for monofilament



Figure 10. Tying the mainline to the sinker's swivel: (a) for spun or braided twine; (b) for monofilament





Next you tie the sinker to the mainline. You can use the same knots that you used when you tied the other end to the spool, but it is advisable to make two turns around the swivel eye before tying the knot. Note also that there are other suitable knots, which you may prefer (Figure 10).
To tie the line directly to the sinker, for any type of twine, use either one of the knots in Figure 11. However, a swivel is always recommended next to the sinker.
Figure 11. Tying the mainline directly to the sinker



Figure 12. Making loops for the snoods: (a) for twisted or braided line; (b) for monofilament line; (c) or better still use a three-way swivel



To make the knot in Figure 11a, simply double the line and make overhand knots with the doubled line to make a loop; then pass the loop through the eye of the sinker, slip it over the sinker and pull tight.
To make the knot in Figure 11b, form a loop with a single overhand knot. Pass the loop through the eye and slip it over the sinker and pull tight.
Now you must make three loops on the mainline approximately 40 cm apart, with the first one about 30 cm from the sinker (Figure 12).
Next you take the three branchlines and tie your hooks on to them.
Look at Figure 13 and select the knot you want to use to tie your hook to the branchline (snood). Knots a, b and c are suitable for all types of lines, but for monofilament you should use one or two additional turns. These knots can also be used for your three-way swivel, both for your mainline and branchline. Knots d and e are especially for tying twine to hooks with flattened (spade-like) shank ends; d is for twisted or braided line, e for monofilament.
Figure 13. Different knots for hooks



Finally, you tie the other ends of your branchlines to the loops you have already made on your mainline, choosing from the knots pictured in Figure 14. You may also use the knots shown in Figure 10b for monofilament lines.
Figure 14. Knots for tying the snoods (branchlines) to the loops: (a, b) for twisted or braided lines; (c) for monofilament



Now your handline gear is ready. Figure 15shows what you have got.
Figure 15. Complete set of handlines: (a) wooden spool; (b) branchline attached to mainline loop; (c) alternative branchline attachment, with swivel; (d) hook attachment; (e) sinker attached with swivel



Originated by: Fisheries and Aquaculture Department
http://www.fao.org/

Text: B. A. Bjarnason
Illustrations: M. Carlesi

The designations employed and the presentation of material in this publication do not imply the expression of any opinion whatsoever on the part of the Food and Agriculture Organization of the United Nations concerning the legal status of any country, territory, city or area or of its authorities, or concerning the delimitation of its frontiers or boundaries.
David Lubin Memorial Library Cataloguing in Publication Data

Bjarnason. B.A.
Handlining and squid jigging
(FAO Training Series, no. 23 )
ISBN 92-5-103100-2