* Wireline Trolling For Stripped Bass

image from : saltwateruniversity.com

By Christopher Bell

Overview. Wireline trolling is a techinique that is used by many thousands of New Englanders every year to catch striped bass, epecially at Block Island. It can be very productive if you know what your doing, but many people think you simply put the line out and motor around in your boat to catch fish, and are surprised when they see others catch fish after fish in the same area and apparently doing the same thing and even using the same rig. Well, there must be something different. Knowing where the fish are holding, what their feeding on and the speed to troll at are just some of the considerations to take into account.



Where are the Fish. You have to go where the fish are, not where you want them to be. You also have to go when the fish are there, not when you want them to be there. For any kind of Bass fishing, early morning is usually the best. Early in the season they may feed throughout the day, but as the season progresses and the sun gets higher in the sky you won't find them feeding during the day unless there is tide and a lot of bait or a weather pattern to entice them into activity. You may find them holding on structure and be able to catch them but its pretty certain that there is something in the way of food down there to keep them interested. If the fish are holding on structure, you have to present your offering over that structure, if you are off by 50' there is no joy. If you are trolling and mark and catch fish, turn around and keep going over the spot until you stop catching. Don't go trolling away unless your damn sure there is something better to head to. And don't spend too much time trolling around a spot and not catching.



Tides and currents. Bass are ambush predators and a current will provide them with the opportunnity to lay in wait for a small creature to be swept past their position so they can gobble it up. It is the current generated by the tides you need to pay atention to. An example of this would be the Block Island North reef. The currents there provide areas which bass like to use as ambush points, and some of these are places to troll wireline. The Block Island north rip is great for this.



Trolling Speed. Never troll at the same speed all the time if it isn't working. Often fish will follow your offering and are waiting for that trigger that tells them that their prey has detected them. Speed up, slow down, change speeds, speed up during your turns. You will be surprised how many times you hook up fish immediately or very soon after a speed change. Sometimes only going at a particular slow speed works, or a particularly fast speed. The most important thing to do is pay attention to what is going on when you hook up. You need to notice if it is always during a speed change, only when you go fast, only when you go very slow, etc. If you speed up and turn, and the inside line picks up a fish, you may not have enough line out since the inside line will usually go deeper, the outside line shallower.Current can be used to control your speed. If you want to go very slow, troll directly into the current. There is one area I fish trolling to the same spot and slowing down as the boat gets near it, going into the current. At times we are barely moving forward, and when I reach the spot on my GPS one or both rods will go down with fish on (tide is very important in this case.) There are times when you will catch most of your fish only trolling in one direction in relation to the current. Pay attention to what is happening when you hook up.



Trolling Depth. This is extremely important. Your depth finder can mark a million fish below 30' but if your trolled rig is only 20' deep you will end up being very frustrated and catching very few fish. Your offering must be presented in the "strike zone", which is the area close enough that the fish will be interested in hitting your lure. This strike zone can be very large when fish are feeding aggressively, or very small if they are "turned off". If you see fish smashing bait on the surface, try letting out a small amount of wireline and troll around the feeding fish, not through the middle of them. So many fisherman shut down the fishing very quickly by trolling through the middle of breaking fish. It is the most idiotic thing they can do. You need to have the lure down near the bottom if you are targeting Bass that aren't feeding aggressively near the surface. If you are in water under 30' deep, it is only necessary to be within 5' of the bottom unless the fish are very sluggish. In deeper water. light penetration becomes an issue and it is necessary to get as close to the bottom as you can without dragging.The rule of thumb is to let out 10 feet of wire for every 1' of depth. This is varied by boat speed and the weight of your lure. Naturally, going slower will cause the rig to go deeper and faste will cause it to run shallower. Remember, if you aren't dragging bottom once in a while, you're trolling too shallow.



Matching the Hatch. You need to troll an offering which is representative of what the fish are feeding on. If there are hordes of sand eels then you shouldn't be trolling 6" soft plastic shads. Bass most often eat bunker, sand eels, and squid. Lures that represent these species are ones you should have available to you. If you catch a keeper, open up its stomach and see what it has been feeding on.



Sport Fishing. This is supposed to be a sport. Keeping the boat in gear and continuing to troll after you have hooked up a fish is winching, not fishing. I have seen so many bass skipping across the surface of the water as they are being reeled up, it's absolutely ridiculous. You should be fighting the fish and not the boat. Where is the fun in that? So the advice is take the boat out of gear after you hook up.



By following the guideleines presented here the reward will be more success for your fishing trips. The last and most important piece of advice when your not catching is this: remember to ask yourself: "what do I need to change?" Are you going too fast, using the wrong rig, trolling too shallow, etc. Watch what other people are doing, it may give you a clue. Catch 'em up!



About the Author: Chris Bell is a website designer and fishing guide. He created the Rhode Island fishing charters listing site and in the summer runs Adventure fishing charters out of Jim’s Dock in RI.



Source: www.isnare.com

Permanent Link: http://www.isnare.com/?aid=358906&ca=Sports

* Going Vertical on Current Breaks

image from : ifish.net

By Sam Anderson

Jigging, still fishing with live bait and casting are the three most popular methods used to fish current breaks. Vertical jigging is the most popular of the three.

Veteran jig fisherman develop a "milk run" of the best current breaks along a stretch of river. From experience they know which areas on each break are most likely to hold fish. Concentrating on these key points, the experts move quickly from site to site, taking the most active fish from each area.

Current is the number one factor when it comes to determining fish location on the river. During most of the spring the water will be high enough to greatly restrict the areas walleyes will inhabit. By June, water levels will have stabilized somewhat, but savvy anglers continue to focus their attention on areas where the current is diverted.

Some types of current breaks are obvious, even to the beginning angler. Bridge pilings, fallen trees, the ever popular wingdams, protruding points and riprap lined shorelines are readily detected by the observant angler. Other types of obstructions are not quite as noticeable. A depthfinder is an invaluable aide in locating these hidden walleye magnets. Submerged timber, rock piles, boulders, subtle drop-offs and the series of furrows found on many sand bottoms are seen only through the use of the depthfinder.

By noting the precise location from which the first couple of fish are taken, current break anglers can accurately predict the mood of the fish on a given day. If the fish comes from the dead or slack water directly below the obstruction, chances are good they are resting and inactive. A limit will not come easily under these conditions. If the fish come from above the obstruction, on the very edge of the current or from the eddy below the break, it is an indication the fish are active.

Methodically checking out every foot of suspended fish holding water near a current break will pay the highest dividends. First check out the upstream lip and the downstream edge where current and slack water meet. These are the areas that will hold active fish. If there is nothing doing at the these locations, give the dead water directly behind the obstruction a quick going over to entice any inactive fish which might be present. Don’t waste a lot of time on one site just because it looks good. Move on and come back later to check it out again. If there is a secret to this style of fishing, it is finding active fish.

Vertical fishing also makes it easier to fish a small area, such as a brushpile, hump or other structure. You can often cast to within 5 feet of such an area and not get hit, but put your lure in it and you immediately come up with a fish.

My favorite technique is to use my MotorGuide trolling motor to stay in a specific place. Finding a good spot, I’ll mark it with a buoy. Then, using my trolling motor and depthfinder I’ll slowly work my way around the area. I will also use my MotorGuide trolling motor and my depthfinder to locate fish vertically along an edge such as an old creek or river channel.

Fish are unusually spooky along wingdams and noisy gas engines will spook the fish. I prefer to use quieter electric motors, like my bow mount MotorGuide. The key element here is presentation, to keep the bait in front of the fish. Point the bow into the current and "slip" down at about current speed. Keep baits in the strike zone longer by sweeping the baits across the structure allowing the bait to fall at a slow rate to naturally present the bait to the fish. It is essential, to slow down your drift with the electric motor as you go over the structure and watch your depth finder for "breaks and barriers". You might have to run your big motor or a kicker motor in reverse to slow the presentation down even more if the current is increased. If the fish are shallow, you might want to anchor and use your bow mount motor to swing your bait and change your position on the face of the wingdam.

In most situations you should be able to get by with four jig sizes, usually fewer than that. On most lakes, rivers, and reservoirs, you should almost always be able to get by with a selection of 1/16, 1/8, 1/4, and 3/8 ounce jigs. True, in some rivers you will need heavier jigs and below a slip bobber a lighter one might work best, but day in and day out, on most waters, these four sizes will be completely adequate. I use more 1/8-ounce size than any other, and lately I have been using more of the 1/16-ounce size.

Use plastic bodies to slow the fall of the jig, to add bulk and visibility in stained and dirty water, and to add color. I like to use a plastic body of one color with a jighead of another color. That provides contrast and also increases the chance of showing the fish the color they want. Pink/ white and orange/ chartreuse are favorite color combinations.

Keep in mind that the walleye's vision will be impaired in the darker environment. Fluorescent colors will often be more productive in this condition. In the spring and summer I like to use plastic bodied jigs like the Fuzzy Grub jig. The reason that I prefer this type of jig is that it adds bulk, making it easier for the fish to see. Sometimes it works well to use a larger than ordinary jig in dirty water, especially if snags aren’t a problem. The larger jig is more visible, and also makes more noise as it moves across the bottom. The combination of those two factors can mean a few more fish from time to time.

Next time you are out on a lake or river go vertical and if you are on one of those hot bites cast me a line at: www.samanderson.com and we can talk about your success.



This Fishing Article is brought to you by Sam Anderson
Please visit his Website for more information.

Source from : http://www.walleyehunter.com/

This Under Utilized Technique May be One of the Most Successful: Trolling Fly Lines

Author: Craig Mumby

This under rated trolling technique may be one of the most successful…


By Craig Mumby


If there is one technique that not many people consider when heading to the lake it’s trolling fly lines and it can produce some of the best fishing imaginable. This technique hasn’t had a real chance to prove itself as fly fishermen don’t do it often because a lot of the joy comes from casting and using finesse to persuade the fish to bite. If they’re going to troll why not just break out the spinning or bait-casting gear. On the other side of the coin, non-fly fishermen tend to be intimidated by fly rods and think that it’s both expensive and difficult to learn. Truth be told you can get a fly rod for a very reasonable price these days and it’s actually fairly simple to pick up the basics with minimal practice. More expensive gear and different casting techniques comes with experience, but for this technique you don’t need either. You don’t even need to know how to cast!


There are a wide variety of fish you can target with this method. It is a great technique for all trout species, even early and late season lake trout. But also bass, walleye, pike and pretty much anything else that swims in under 25ft. of water can be fished this way. For me, this is the single most consistent method for catching still water trout.


Go get yourself a fly rod and as I said it doesn’t have to be an expensive outfit though there are certain advantages to things like multiplier, or large arbour reels, as the retrieve ratio is greater and you will be able to gain line quicker on a fish running toward the boat. A standard 9 ft. rod is perfect; anywhere from a 5 weight to a 7 weight are ideal in most situations, but if you’re looking for bigger fish go with a heavier weight; lighter for smaller fish. Personally I like to use a 7 weight because it has enough backbone to work a variety of baits. There is a wide variety of line on the market and the body of water you’re fishing should dictate what “type” to use. There are six types of full sink line: type 1 – type 6. Type 1 runs the shallowest and type 6 the deepest. I use type 6 almost exclusively as it can get down faster and you can effectively fish around the 18 – 22 ft range with a lot of baits. An electric motor and fish finder are certainly advantageous as trout can be easily spooked and it can be crucial to know your depth so you can work your lines along the bottom structure properly. Bring along a good selection of flies such as shrimp and streamer patterns. It’s always a good idea to check with the local tackle shops to see what’s working. Lures like flatfish, quikfish, hot shots and rapalas are excellent choices to bring as long as they don’t have much dive to them and have high action while trolling dead slow. Pick up some fluorocarbon leader material. Leaders in the 9 – 12 ft range are best. I usually use Berkley Vanish and if I’m using something other than a fly, which I usually do, always tie a swivel into the leader or you will have quite the mess on your hands.





“Ripping” flies is one of the most consistent techniques for picking up active fish. Make a nice long fluorocarbon leader, no need for a swivel down to your fly, all on your type 6 sinking line. Don’t be afraid to use big flies! My best fly has always been a double shrimp pattern on a #2 hook. The key to ripping is exactly what it sounds like. Let your line out until the backing, keeping the trolling speed a little higher than what you might be used to and repetitively jerk the rod as hard as you can. The more power the better! This is another benefit of the heavier 7 weight rod; it makes this motion a lot easier on the arms. Essentially, this will make your fly almost swim through the water like a jerk bait and you get a lot of impulse strikes.


If you want to switch to hardware make sure you check the action of your lure at the side of the boat before you lower your line so you know how to gauge the speed for your troll. For example, flatfish are designed to have a lot of action at a very slow rate of speed, so by trolling dead slow you achieve the perfect action which you will notice on your rod tip, and be able to get deeper than lures that require faster action. So, when you want to get to some deeper fish with your type 6 line troll dead slow with a flatfish, kwikfish, or hot shots and you can effectively fish close to the 20 ft mark.


Getting used to the way the lines follow the boat is very important if you want to work an area properly. Let your line out to the backing if you’re fishing deeper than 12 – 15 ft. Fly lines have much greater water resistance than standard line and due to the thicker diameter it won’t cut the water like monofilament. For example, when you make a fairly sharp turn with fly line it will swing more with your turn and follow the path of the boat instead of cut across water and thus stalling your lure. This allows you to work your bait more effectively. When you get used to fishing this way you can estimate your depth and where behind the boat your fly, or lure, is running to within a few feet. Boat control is absolutely crucial when working deeper structure and you can actually work the lines to ride right up a drop off or sink down, whatever the case may be. So, if you’re trolling in 20’ feet of water and you see that the bottom is rising, all you have to do is gradually speed up so your line is elevated by water resistance caused by the speed of the boat. The reverse is also true when you come to a drop off; slow right down and let the line sink with the bottom and speed back up when your line is deep enough. This will put more fish in your boat and you’ll find a lot fun out of concentrating on the bottom and trying to work it properly. Some of my bigger fish have been caught while stalling on a drop off to let the lines sink, then as soon as you kick into gear hold on!





Even though this is not a popular technique it is not due to its lack of productivity. The only reason is that people never think to do it. There are so many different situations where you can apply this technique. I’ve had enormous success fishing for bass, walleye and pike with crankbaits and flies. Another great place to give this a shot is salmon fishing on the west coast. I’ve done very well fishing for coho, pink and sockeye salmon on a third rod out the back in between my downriggers. One of the biggest things to learn in fishing is to be versatile if you want to be consistently successful. Give this technique a shot and I guarantee you won’t be disappointed.

About the Author:
Craig Mumby is twenty eight years old and has been in the sport fishing industry since the age of 18 when he started working with Bob Izumi’s “Real Fishing” show. He has fished professionally for nearly every sport fish in the country. Originally from Toronto, he grew up fishing Ontario’s many lakes and river systems. Currently, Craig guides out of the prestigious Langara Island Lodge in the Queen Charlotte Islands, British Columbia.

Article Source: ArticlesBase.com - This Under Utilized Technique May be One of the Most Successful: Trolling Fly Lines

* How To Go Trolling For Crappie

image from : outdoor.com

Author: Daniel Eggertsen

Crappie fishing is a great sport enjoyed by anglers of all ages and skill levels. One of the best methods to use when fishing for crappie is trolling.



This is an easy technique to use when crappie fishing and it is a very effective one when done correctly. So, how do you go trolling for crappie if you want to be successful and return home with a catch you can be proud of?



The first step is to know a little bit about the crappie such as, where they are normally found during each season and what they feed on. For instance, during the spring you can usually find the crappie moving closer to shore where they can be found in water less than five feet deep.



In the heat of the summer they will be out deeper in the water and they will be a little harder to locate. In the fall they will be moving back to shallow water and in the winter months they are the least active.



One reason that trolling is so popular is because it is one of the fastest and easiest ways for you to locate and reel in the crappie. It is a great way to catch several fish at once and have lots of fun in the process.



Trolling for crappie is a fairly easy method of fishing that needs a few accessories to get started. Once you have everything you need you are ready to start reeling in the crappie.



What You Will Need for Trolling



Trolling requires having a boat that is equipped with a trolling motor, fishing rods and holders. Plus you will need all the accessories such as tackle and bait as well. The trolling motor is extremely important because it will keep you moving at the same slow speed while trolling for crappie.



You need a motor that will move the boat around very slowly because the slower you move the better your fishing will be.



Trolling requires having several fishing rods with holders located on the side of the boat. They should be placed about two to three feet apart. It is suggested that you use different bait on each line for the best results.



This will help you determine which bait is attracting the crappie the most. When you are trying to decide which bait to use, most anglers agree that minnows are the best if you are going to use live bait. This is because it is one of their favorite meals that always seem to get their attention. Jigs are the best alternative to live bait and you have a wide selection of these to choose from.



The jigs should be set up with different weights on each line so that you can fish at a variety of different depths at the same time. This will allow you to cover more ground and determine the depth of the crappie much faster than if you were fishing just one depth.



Don't hesitate to experiment with different combinations of colors and sizes until you find one that seems to be getting the results you are hoping for. Normally, the best colors to use are yellow, chartreuse, green, blue and black.

About the Author:

Dan Eggertsen is a fishing researcher and enthusiast who is committed to providing the best crappie fishing information possible. Get more information on trolling for crappie here: http://www.askcrappiefishing.com/

Article Source: http://www.articlesbase.com/sports-and-fitness-articles/how-to-go-trolling-for-crappie-524030.html

* Wireline Trolling For Bass by Arthor Pens

Image From : igfa.org

Wireline Trolling For Bass by Arthor Pens

Wireline trolling is a technique that is used by many thousands of New Englanders every year to catch striped bass. It can be very productive if you know what your doing, but many people think you simply put the line out and motor around in your boat to catch fish, and are surprised when they see others catch fish after fish in the same area and apparently doing the same thing and even using the same rig. Well, there must be something different. Knowing where the fish are holding, what their feeding on and the speed to troll at are just some of the considerations to take into account.

Where are the Fish. You have to go where the fish are, not where you want them to be. You also have to go when the fish are there, not when you want them to be there. For any kind of Bass fishing, early morning is usually the best. Early in the season they may feed throughout the day, but as the season progresses and the sun gets higher in the sky you won't find them feeding during the day unless there is tide and a lot of bait or a weather pattern to entice them into activity. You may find them holding on structure and be able to catch them but its pretty certain that there is something in the way of food down there to keep them interested. If the fish are holding on structure, you have to present your offering over that structure, if you are off by 50' there is no joy. If you are trolling and mark and catch fish, turn around and keep going over the spot until you stop catching. Don't go trolling away unless your damn sure there is something better to head to. And! don't spend too much time trolling around a spot and not catching.

Tides and currents. Bass are ambush predators and a current will provide them with the opportunity to lay in wait for a small creature to be swept past their position so they can gobble it up. It is the current generated by the tides you need to pay attention to. An example of this would be the Block Island North reef. The currents there provide areas which bass like to use as ambush points, and some of these are places to troll wireline.

Trolling Speed. Never troll at the same speed all the time if it isn't working. Often fish will follow your offering and are waiting for that trigger that tells them that their prey has detected them. Speed up, slow down, change speeds, speed up during your turns. You will be surprised how many times you hook up fish immediately or very soon after a speed change. Sometimes only going at a particular slow speed works, or a particularly fast speed. The most important thing to do is pay attention to what is going on when you hook up. You need to notice if it is always during a speed change, only when you go fast, only when you go very slow, etc. If you speed up and turn, and the inside line picks up a fish, you may not have enough line out since the inside line will usually go deeper, the outside line shallower.

Current can be used to control your speed. If you want to go very slow, troll directly into the current. There is one area I fish trolling to the same spot and slowing down as the boat gets near it, going into the current. At times we are barely moving forward, and when I reach the spot on my GPS one or both rods will go down with fish on (tide is very important in this case.) There are times when you will catch most of your fish only trolling in one direction in relation to the current. Pay attention to what is happening when you hook up.

Trolling Depth. This is extremely important. Your depth finder can mark a million fish below 30' but if your trolled rig is only 20' deep you will end up being very frustrated and catching very few fish. Your offering must be presented in the "strike zone", which is the area close enough that the fish will be interested in hitting your lure. This strike zone can be very large when fish are feeding aggressively, or very small if they are "turned off".

If you see fish smashing bait on the surface, try letting out a small amount of wireline and troll around the feeding fish, not through the middle of them. So many fisherman shut down the fishing very quickly by trolling through the middle of breaking fish. It is the most idiotic thing they can do. You need to have the lure down near the bottom if you are targeting Bass that aren't feeding aggressively near the surface. If you are in water under 30' deep, it is only necessary to be within 5' of the bottom unless the fish are very sluggish. In deeper water. light penetration becomes an issue and it is necessary to get as close to the bottom as you can without dragging.

The rule of thumb is to let out 10 feet of wire for every 1' of depth. This is varied by boat speed and the weight of your lure. Naturally, going slower will cause the rig to go deeper and fast will cause it to run shallower. Remember, if you aren't dragging bottom once in a while, you're trolling too shallow.

Matching the Hatch. You need to troll an offering which is representative of what the fish are feeding on. If there are hordes of sand eels then you shouldn't be trolling 6" soft plastic shads. Bass most often eat bunker, sand eels, and squid. Lures that represent these species are ones you should have available to you. If you catch a keeper, open up its stomach and see what it has been feeding on.

Sport Fishing. This is supposed to be a sport. Keeping the boat in gear and continuing to troll after you have hooked up a fish is winching, not fishing. I have seen so many bass skipping across the surface of the water as they are being reeled up, it's absolutely ridiculous. You should be fighting the fish and not the boat. Where is the fun in that? So the advice is take the boat out of gear after you hook up.

By following the guidelines presented here the reward will be more success for your fishing trips. The last and most important piece of advice when your not catching is this: remember to ask yourself: "what do I need to change?" Are you going too fast, using the wrong rig, trolling too shallow, etc. Watch what other people are doing, it may give you a clue. Catch 'em up!



The Author has been fishing Rhode Island Waters for years and runs a charter fishing service out of Jerusalem. For more info visit: http://www.adventurecharters.org

Article Source: http://www.articlesjust4you.com

Wiper Fishing Tips

images from : allkayakfishing.com

Wiper Fishing Tips

Author: Jay Bryce

The hybrid striped bass, or "wiper" is an artificial cross between a striped bass (Morone saxatilis) and a white bass (Morone chrysops). Hybridization of these two species does not occur naturally. Therefore, hybrid striped bass must be cultured in a fish hatchery situation. Hybrid bass can be distinguished from white bass by its two tooth patches on the tongue, as opposed to only one tooth patch on the white bass. As they grow older, hybrid bass become thicker and deeper-bodied, giving them a distinctive short and stocky appearance.

Hybrids may be found in a variety of habitats. In some lakes they may prefer fairly flat, shallow, sandy areas. In other lakes, typically the larger reservoirs, they may prefer the more rocky habitats located directly above or below the dams. Best fishing for hybrid striped bass occurs just after sundown or in the early morning just before sunrise. They are caught primarily on artificial baits which resemble gizzard shad. Imitation shad that rattle have proven to be successful at many lakes. In addition, many anglers have been successful using live bait such as night crawlers or soft craws.

Hybrids appear to be attracted to flowing water. Tailwater areas below dams are good fishing locations when water is flowing either through the spillway gates or turbines of the dam. Also, natural springs and the mouths of feeder creeks after heavy rains can attract hybrids.

The fish will usually not be in the fastest water, but off to the side waiting to ambush their prey (or your lure). Areas with current are productive throughout the year. Hybrids also travel up reservoir tributary streams right along with the white bass during April and May.

You can catch hybrids on a variety of artificial baits. In fast water situations, such as those encountered below dams, heavy spoons and jigs are popular baits. For areas with less current, imitation minnow baits and other crankbaits are effective. Hybrids also can be caught on shad, liver and a variety of insects.

Hybrids occupy distinct spots on structure, so trolling passes need to be exact. Anglers should line up shoreline objects and troll between them. Most strikes will come while trolling with the current because the fish like to hold on the down-current side of points.

During the summer months, you can catch hybrids by trolling deep-diving crankbaits over main lake points or near the edge where a flat drops off into the channel. The key is to get your lure to bounce bottom in 14 to 17 feet of water. This can be done by adding weight to your lure and by using a low stretch/small diameter line.

Hybrids occupy distinct spots on structure, so trolling passes need to be exact. Anglers should line up shoreline objects and troll between them. Most strikes will come while trolling with the current because the fish like to hold on the down-current side of points.

Seasonal Wiper Fishing Approaches

Spring: In faster water, such as tailwaters, use heavy spoons and jigs. In less current use imitation minnow baits and other crankbaits. As water warms fish may undergo spawning movement into upstream areas, try creek mouths up to headwaters or lowhead dams, and below dams in tailwaters of lakes and rivers.

Late Spring: Fish are hungry as they move back to lake or downstream areas. Try fishing baits at a variety of depths to locate fish. As fish return to lake or move downstream try creek mouths, deep points, and shallow flats

Summer: Live shad can be drift fished, trolled, fished below a balloon or float, or hung straight down on tightline. Other live or cut baits can be fished on bottom. Best fishing is dawn and dusk and overcast days. Deep lakes are now stratified and fish stay above the warm/cold water interface (thermocline) where there is oxygen. Watch for fish breaking the surface chasing shad and try fishing the "jumps". Fish points at creek mouths, underwater roadbeds, and humps in 10-15 feet near deeper water.

Fall: Cast spoons into schools of bait fish, troll shad-type crankbaits, cast flashy metal lures onto flats, or bottom fish cut bait or chicken livers. As water cools, fish will move shallower. Similar to spring, but watch for fish breaking the surface chasing shad.

Winter: Fish are in deeper water near river channels, humps, and tips of points. Vertical jig spoons and tail spinners. Use heavier baits based on current in the river. In lakes try deep points, and creek mouths, and below dams in tailwaters. In rivers try warm-water discharges and tailwaters.

Article Source: http://www.articlesbase.com/fishing-articles/wiper-fishing-tips-5397824.html

About the Author

Jay Bryce is a community manger at iFished.com (http://www.ifished.com/). iFished.com has fishing and local information for over 40,000 lakes and fishing areas in the United States. Information includes current weather and forecasts, best times fishing charts, maps, local businesses, Outdoor Store and more. iFished.com also has a large library of fishing videos, fishing articles and current fishing reports to help you catch more fish.

image from : ontariossunsetcountry.ca

Secrets To Trolling For Walleye

Author: Daniel Eggertsen

Anyone that has fished for walleye will tell you that trolling for walleye is a great way of catching the tasty fish. These individuals will also tell you it is a great way to get more than just a few.



Actually, by trolling it allows an individual to cover a larger area and have your bait in the water for a longer period of time, as being compared to simply cast into the water. Amazingly, walleye love to chase their food. So, in all fairness trolling at a slow speed will essentially attract a walleye faster than if an individual was continuously casting bait into the water. It is however important to know that going more than around three miles per hour will not catch walleye. The slower speed is what will catch the most walleye.



Something else of importance obviously is shallow water. If you are going to go trolling for walleye in shallow water be sure that the bait you are using is within three to five feet from the bottom during the day. The bait shouldn't be totally dragging on the bottom for several reasons, and the biggest reason is that it will get snagged. Another factor about dragging on the bottom is that the bait will actually take on a certain amount of debris. This will make it hard for the walleye to see or even be something the walleye would want to eat.



If this is the case, an individual won't have much luck at trolling for walleye because they simply won't see the bait, or the snagging of the bait will have the individual constantly stopping to attach more bait in order to continue trolling for the walleye.



Good trolling fish anglers that go after walleye all know that it's also important to check the bait quite a bit to make sure it is free of debris and other material.



And now, if an individual has the opportunity to be trolling for walleye in deeper water the adventure gets better. The idea or best strategy for this is finding the best water depth that is appealing to the walleye and where they are essentially hanging out. If for some reason after a period of time there is no bite or no action, then simply set the bait to another depth and see if this works better. If an individual is using more than one reel it is important to set the rod and reels a bit away from one another so as neither will get snagged on the other.



Another strategy that fish anglers use for trolling for walleye is basically a home method called board planing. This allows the reels to stay a certain distance away from each other, and then the problem of the reels or line being snagged is taken care of.



Many areas and locations have reasonable resources for trolling for walleye and there are many fishing anglers that do just that. The over all success rates for trolling for walleye as compared to fishing from the shore is much greater.

About the Author:

Dan Eggertsen is a fishing researcher and enthusiast who is committed to providing the best walleye fishing information possible. Get more information on walleye fishing while trolling here: http://www.askwalleyefishing.com/

Article Source: ArticlesBase.com - Secrets To Trolling For Walleye

* Open Water Trolling

image from : boatinsurancerate.org

By Mark Brumbaugh and Bob Riege

Schooled walleyes roaming open water, either suspending or lying over open basins, are the reason an angler would switch from a jigging approach to a bait delivery system that would include planer boards, snap weights, and crankbaits or spinners. Trolling boards arose out of the Great Lakes where they were used for lake trout and salmon. Walleye anglers were quick to use this application for big water walleyes as well. Boards spread multiple lines wide to the sides of the boat, to minimize spooking and to present a spread of lures at multiple depths. No longer are you limited to trolling a narrow path behind the boat. Instead you can now troll a path 150 feet wide, simultaneously experimenting with depth, lure size and action, color patterns, speed and more.

This presentation is effective for eliminating unproductive water and zeroing in on walleyes, particularly at the 1 to 3 mph quick trolling range, which is productive in cool to cold water, and during summer as well. It’s simple in principle, complex in execution, in order to minimize tangles, maximize catches, and achieve desired results. But a properly run set of lines proceeds through open water like a giant rake, showing fish suspended at the target depth.

Board presentations evolved from traditional mast and ski systems popular on large Great Lakes boats, to small in-line planers easy to use in smaller craft. Planer boards clip onto line via simple friction releases, sending lines out to the sides of the boat while trolling. When a fish strikes, bobbing or dragging the board backward, reel in, detach the board release with a quick twist of thumb and forefinger, drop the board in the boat, and fight the fish unhindered by excess hardware.

Planer boards are small and light enough to use on traditional walleye gear. Typically that would mean that you could use line as light as 10 pound test monofilament which maintains good lure action and diving depth, and promotes a good fight on light tackle. Anglers generally use long trolling rods about 7 to 8 footers to hold lines off the surface of the water while trolling, reducing drag and maximizing the spread. Long handled rods fit in rod holders until a fish strikes. A well placed spread of four lines effectively covers open water options.

Crankbaits run at specific depths depending on size, diving lip, line length and trolling speed. Within the natural diving range of each lure, depth is fine tuned by adjusting line length. Trolling reels with line length indicators have become popular for exact replication of productive depth and pinpoint control. Many manufacturers offer line counting reels now so anglers don’t have to count the number of throws a reel goes through to set a specific depth.

Few crankbaits dive deeper than 25 feet, even on a long line. To reach depths exceeding the natural diving ability of crankbaits, weight must be added to the line to drop lures down into the fish zone. This is just as true for presenting spinner-crawler combos. Walleye anglers have several solutions for increasing running depth while maintaining control.

Traditional deep water trolling was once accomplished with leadcore line. This leadcore line is braided dacron with a thin lead core, creating a sinker running the entire length of the line. Leadcore was used to toll deep water for walleyes or trout. The answer to the solution of depth was to simply let more line out and the lure went deeper. A monofilament leader between the lure and leadcore minimized spooking. When a fish hit, you simply reeled the leadcore up into a large capacity trolling reel.

When leadcore was first used with planer boards, it was to heavy; anything more than about 30 yards of leadcore sunk a typical board. This was remedied by tying a 10, 20, or 30 yard segment of leadcore into the main line, 50 feet a head of the lure. The segmented leadcore approach took lures down to about 35 feet, but was somewhat confusing to most anglers. Multiple reels with different lengths of segmented leadcore were needed to effectively cover a variety of depths.

The answer was attaching weights to the main line. Trouble was, a sinker placed too near the lure spooked fish, and too far up the line it interfered with netting. The solution came from tackle companies, that offered detachable snap weights. Simply let out some line, then with the same release clip used on planer boards, snap a weight onto a line 50 feet ahead of the lure.

Now let out as much additional line as necessary to reach a targeted trolling depth. Need more depth? Switch to a heavier sinker. Got a bite? Reel in until the sinker is within reach, then pinch it off your line and drop it in the boat. Experiment with weights from 1/4 up to 3 ounces with boards, heavier sinkers without boards.

Open water trolling for suspended fish taught anglers that walleyes could be caught tight to the bottom. Run snap weights near bottom, or switch to three-way rigs or bottom bouncers to make lures or baits run just above bottom. Bouncers run the closest, while three-ways are adjustable by varying dropper length. Remember, anything more than 3 ounces can sink a planer board, though heavier weights can be used without boards for fishing on or near bottom with vertical lines, to cover many productive zones.

Trolling large open water expanses has recently been applied to some areas that previously would not have been attempted with amazing results. This summer don’t keep pounding the shoreline in hopes of catching a few fish when you have all of that open water to troll.

Adopted From : http://www.walleyehunter.com/articles/riege13.html

* How to Understand the Sport of Fishing

image from : roatan.ws

How to Understand the Sport of Fishing

Author: Jimmy Cox

Every year more than thirty million people in the United States go fishing. Behind this vast migration to our streams, lakes, bays, and oceans, there lies a greater motivation than the desire for food and exercise. It is simply that fishing is fun - so much fun that it is one of the nation's fastest growing family sports.



The fact that fishing is no longer the exclusive preserve of males accounts for this rapid rise in popularity. Today mothers and daughters are discovering the pleasures that fathers and sons have traditionally recognized - and the sport is proving a recreation that can truly be enjoyed by the whole family.



There are three basic methods of fishing:



Still fishing. This is the simplest, often the starting point of one's interest in the sport. The equipment required is elementary: a rod - this can range from expensive fishing tackle to a bamboo pole; a length of line; a float or bobber; and a hook. The hook carries natural bait - worms, minnows, hellgrammites, crayfish, grubs, and insects - and lies static beneath the water until a fish bites.



Trolling. In this method, the hook, with bait or artificial lure attached, is drawn through the water by a slow-moving boat. Trolling is practiced on the ocean, on freshwater lakes, and in rivers that are wide enough and deep enough to give your lure unobstructed passage.



Casting. Here the angler employs the action of his rod to "throw" an artificial lure over the water, then retrieve the lure so that it imitates the action of live bait. (At times, live bait is cast in the same manner.) The principal casting techniques are bait, spin, and fly casting for freshwater fish, and surf casting in salt water.



The question that's often put to me is, "Why bother to learn to cast when you can just drop a line in the water and still fish?" There are three obvious answers that come to mind immediately, and a dozen more that may occur to any of you who have tried both methods.



First, it's much more fun and more sporting to catch a fish by casting. Second, when casting, you can present your lure in good fishing spots that can't be reached by still fishing. Third, while the still-fisherman can present his bait only to the fish in his immediate vicinity, the caster can reach much farther, has a greater potential number of fish within his range. His chances of taking a trophy catch - the ultimate goal of nine out of ten anglers - increase correspondingly.



In almost all states there are open and closed seasons on many fresh-water species; before you fish any waters be sure the season is open for the species you plan to catch. (If a fish is caught that is protected by a closed season, it must be released immediately.) This is especially true when you plan a trip to out-of-state waters.



To obtain this information, write to the Director of the Conservation Department of the state where you are planning to fish. A letter so addressed, sent to the state capital, will reach the proper source. Ask (1) for a free copy of that state's fishing laws; (2) for information about license fees and data on the open and closed seasons (usually contained in the law booklet); (3) what weeks are best for given species; and (4) where the best fishing and accommodations can be found.



Nobody would expect to play baseball in the major leagues as soon as he bought his first glove, and no golfer would expect to win the National Open as soon as he has acquired his first clubs. Bring the same patience and persistence to fishing as you would to these other sports: you'll be in the ranks of the expert a lot sooner than you would expect. And we confirmed fishermen are anxious to have you join us.

About the Author:

Expert Fisherman Reveals His Fishing Line Secrets To Catch Loads Of Fish Every Time!

Click here for FREE online ebook!

http://www.fishinglinesecrets.com/

Article Source: http://www.articlesbase.com/sports-and-fitness-articles/how-to-understand-the-sport-of-fishing-249281.html

* Trolling Barracuda

. A surface feeder the barracuda is rarely caught deeper than 100 feet. The main diet is anchovies and other small fishes and large barracuda are very rare with 5 to 10 pounds most common. Most barracuda are caught with either hard lure like rapala. When using hard lures be prepared to loose a lot of rigs to the barracudas razor sharp teeth. When using bait either line or use a sliding sinker. A lot of bait fisherman use a wire leader with the only drawback being less bites. Hard lures are typically cast out and retrieved slowly with a change of speed often getting a strike by the barracuda. When fishing hard lure for barracuda the most often used colors are most beautiful and light colors combination or have chrome in them .Please use barb hook type as treble hooks do damage to the barracudas mouth. The barracuda is a great conservation story and releasing short fish with damaged mouths will not help their future. A good trolling for fishing barracuda would be from 6.5 feet to 8 feet with a reel able to handle 200 yards of 20 to 30# test.

* Barramundi Fishing in Thailand

Image From : barralodge.com.au

Barramundi Fishing in Thailand - An Amazing Days Fishing for the
Ultimate Predator
By Jason Butler

Firstly, I have to admit my ignorance, when I was told that
there were Barramundi in Thailand I was very surprised. Thinking
they were only native to Australia, it was pointed out to me
that these fish in fact populate many freshwater lakes
throughout Asia. So I went along to Bor Num Lake with a friend
of mine (John); who is also a keen angler and has been living in
Bangkok for over thirteen years.

The lake is actually called Bor Num Barramundi fishing park,
and the ticket for the day cost 100 Thai baht (approx 2 British
pounds or 3 US dollars), excellent value for money. It is
possible to hire spinning rods and tackle for an additional 100
baht per person. Bor Num Lake also offers the chance to try your
hand at fly fishing; the price is the same which ever code of
fishing is chosen. It was suggested to us that we use lures when
fishing for the barramundi, we were in total agreement -lure
fishing always appeals- as the action and excitement is second
to none when fishing for predators using this system.

It turns out that fishing for barramundi is extremely popular
amongst Thais, especially at the weekends where many come to
enjoy the fishing activities. Though catching and eating your
quarry is something that has never appealed to me, many anglers
here, Thais and foreigners alike do. You can enjoy these fish in
the restaurant for -an additional cost- if you so wish, the fish
is prepared by the local chefs to your taste (the lake is
frequently stocked, to counter the fish taken for the pot).You
can always put the fish back if this is not your bag.

There is not much protection from the sun here, so one must
stay well covered up as the sun will easily nuke the skin, even
sun block struggles to keep the rays at bay. So a good hat and a
long sleeved shirt are the order of the day.

The staff were very friendly giving us plenty of tips and
advice, without which I feel we may have struggle to catch; when
fishing here one needs to use different techniques than when at
home fishing.

The Barramundi have been farmed commercially in lakes here in
Thailand for over twenty years, they are extremely aggressive
hunters and when hooked give one serious fight. Usually clearing
the water with energetically charged leaps, which causes large
splashes as they land again, bringing the angler much approved
applause and cheer from the local observers.

We found that poppers with a fly attached to a 30lb leader
proved to be the most successful lures (as recommended by the
guide). Barramundi have a sharp gill plate and the larger fish
can cut through 40lb Fluorocarbon shock leader in one swipe. We
used bait casting rods 6 feet in length and bait casting reels
which are used specifically for lure fishing (they look very
much like multiplying reels).

The lake is not a fish farm and it is quite easy to blank here
if the wrong methods are used, but if you get it right a
fantastic day will be had. The fish do vary in size form 1kg
(2.2lb) up to and beyond 10kg (22lbs).

Unbelievably the first cast of the day resulted in John hitting
into a monster, with in seconds this Barramundi leapt clear of
the water creating much excitement in the camp (the guide
pointing out that when the fish breaches the water, it is best
to lower the tip of the rod, so as not to give the fish too much
chance of shedding the hook) John then proceeded to wrestle for
a further five minutes with his quarry, again the magnificent
barramundi cleared the water several more times before finally
subduing to the net. A 4.8kg fish on the first cast and about
twenty more in total, not bad at all for a couple of beginners.
A few tips:-

It is debatable whether to use a tour company or not. If you
are confident of finding your way and have your own transport
then it is not essential to pay the extra for a tour company.
The staff at Born Num is very experienced and probably knows
more about their water than the guides from agencies.

If live bait fishing you must buy out the fish, you can not
catch and release when live baiting due to the almost guaranteed
take.

A small tip is appreciated but not compulsory for the guides at
Bor Num – we gave B100 tip for good service all day
The guides are kept very bust usually looking after 5 or 6
anglers at a time.

Food and drinks are ordered via the guide, so you do not have
to leave the waters edge.
Toilets are not European Style, but clean.

There is a very friendly atmosphere and the local fishermen are
only too willing to help, giving friendly advice and tips
without being too intrusive.

So all in all a fantastic day was had by all and we became
hooked ourselves and will certainly be returning to Bor Num very
soon.

About the Author: Jason Butler is a free lance writer. He is
currently residing in Thailand and enjoying life. Writing
articles on Fishing and Steam engine models is a passion of his.
He is also a scuba Diving Instructor with over ten years
experience. http://www.john-tom.com/
http://jason-stealinrubies.blogspot.com/

Source: http://www.isnare.com

Permanent Link: http://www.isnare.com/?aid=326280&ca=Recreation

image from : sandrawieczorek.com

Saltwater Trolling For Tuna

Author: Daniel Eggertsen

Whenever you are trolling for tuna there are a few tips on how to catch tuna that will help you considerably.



Once you have gotten the proper permits or licenses, and have all your safety gear and inspections out of the way, you are ready for some serious tuna fishing! Just make plans to stay out on the water from just before sunrise until dark, because tuna bite best very early and from sunset until dark.



When it comes to bait, the preferred bait for tuna changes daily. Bring spreader bars in all the colors you can and in various sizes. Every color of tuna train, teaser birds, lures, and multiple sized ballyhoo rigged with teasers. If you are trolling for giant tuna, begin with a thirteen inch squid spreader bars and move to smaller squid set ups if you are not having any luck.



On rough days, you might want to consider trolling in the trough. This will keep your rigs and baits from flying out of the water and looking less than natural to the tuna. You might not be in for as comfy a ride, but you will be able to catch fish this way. Consider using red or yellow line to help you see and identify your line. This has not been known to inhibit the bite in any way.



Never touch your bait or line with bare hands. Rub all your leaders with alcohol before you use them, and wear surgical gloves when baiting your hook. Use some floss to sew some squid tentacles onto the hook of every single bait. You can also use shmeg or pork rinds on your stinger in a pinch. Many fish are lost after you hook them and get them to the boat, when they run under the boat and get away. Just make sure your trim tabs are always up all the way while putting your riggers.



Change your trolling speed depending on what you are after. From five to just over five knots is best for medium sized bluefin tuna. Three to Four knots is best for giant tuna.

Look for the whales. If you can spot whales, you will find tuna nearby. The truth is, they are all looking for forage. Whales are the best hunters in the sea, and the tuna follow them wherever they go in hopes of finding food. Drag rigs right in front of the whales for good results.



If you see a feeding frenzy, fish the outer edges of it. Don't get right over the fish, but give them room to bust. The largest tuna will be at the edges of the frenzy, and you can pick them up there.



Try to fish quiet areas where you see signs of the tuna being present. Heavily fished areas are actually the most difficult to catch in.Try to fish on the Southern or Western winds, and don't fish on the full or new moon, for best results when it comes to fishing for tuna.

About the Author:

Dan Eggertsen is a fishing researcher and enthusiast who is committed to providing the best saltwater fishing information possible. Get more information on saltwater trolling here: http://www.asksaltwaterfishing.com/

Article Source: http://www.articlesbase.com/sports-and-fitness-articles/saltwater-trolling-for-tuna-566532.html

image from : premierbeachproperties.com

The Right Way to Choose the Perfect Fishing Trip Destination

Author: Greg F Williams

One of the best things you must do to design a great angling trip is to distinguish your priorities. You require to be more specified than just saying you want special fishing trip. Great fishing may mean opposite things to for each one person in your fishing company.

One individual might be glad with taking seven fish per day, while others might be looking for 30 fish per hour. So, you want to determine this up foremost.

Let us take look at some of the most essential things to look at when deciding where to go on your fishing trip.

What type of fish do you are you wishing to catch?

While this may appear transparent, it is something that wants to be talked about. One individual may want to fish for walleye and northern pike, while others may want to go bass fishing. Since some northern lakes have water too frozen for bass, you may finish up at a lake that would really disappoint the bass fisherman.

Do you wish for tons of activity? Or trophy fish?

Some anglers just enjoy catching lots of fish with the hope of getting a few large ones. Other fishermen would rather give up catching a great amount of fish for a better opportunity at catching the biggest fish they can find. You need to make up one's mind which is more important to your fishing group... lots of fish that perhaps aren't the biggest or fewer fish but a bigger opportunity of a really big one.

It should be mentioned that there are many places where you can do both... catch heaps of fish and get tremendous huge ones. But, these tend to be at the more distant and high-priced lodges and are not always doable for many fishing groups.

How are you going to catch your fish?

Do you like to troll? Or drift? Fish in flows? Deep water fish?

We have seen individuals trolling in 60 ft of water thinking the fish were only a few feet from the surface of the water. Not much chance of getting anything this way. Be sure you know the type of fishing your group prefers and that the lake will provide it.

What do you require to expend for this fishing trip?

The price you're ready to pay will have a huge impact on the type of fishing trip you will have.

Be pragmatic. How much do you really want to expend? Are you comfortable to camp or tar-paper hut on a lake with great sport fishing?

Or would you favour staying at a more upscale fishing inn?

Do you want to cook for yourself... or do you want the fishing camp to do the cooking?

And what about shower installations? Are you prepared to use a community shower bath or do you want a private shower and bathing tub in your own cabin. Gentlemen, if you're taking your better half on this trip, make utterly sure you consider this one! If you do not, it could screw up an otherwise great trip.

Other things to think about are how lengthy the trip will be and the type of fish you are wanting to catch. A trip to a fishing hostelry on a lake with pan fish and bass will in all probability be much cheaper that a trip to Alaska or Northern Canada for arctic charge.

So, if you in truth want a great fishing trip, begin by planning just precisely what you wish out of the trip and how much you are happy to spend. Do it the right way and you will have the fishing trip of a lifetime.

About the Author:

For more Free advice on Fly Fishing try visiting Greg F Williams Site Fly Fishing Mastery. A popular website that provides more advice on fly fishing reels, fly fishing rods, fly fishing tackle, fishing accessories and Fly Fishing Tips. You can get a unique content version of this article.

Article Source: http://www.articlesbase.com/fishing-articles/the-right-way-to-choose-the-perfect-fishing-trip-destination-596147.html

Trolling Therminology

Trolling is the name given to the type of fishing in which a natural or artificial bait, fitted with hooks, is towed from a line
attached to a moving boat. The appearance and motion of the bait is intended to excite carnivorous fish into attacking it, and
becoming hooked. This fishing method therefore aims to catch predatory fish, that is the types of fish which chase and eat other
fish.



Trolling is a fishing method which is carried out all over
the world, for commercial and recreational purposes. There
are many variations to the equipment and techniques used.
Trolling may be carried out at high speed, so that the
fisherman can cover a large fishing area, or slowly, so as to
avoid outrunning the fish. The lines may be of light, synthetic
material for invisibility, or may be of heavy wire and cable
for strength and resistance to cutting. The bait may be towed
at the surface, or may be trolled using weights or other
equipment to carry it down into deep water. The way in which
trolling is performed depends on local conditions, the species
sought, and their behaviour and physical characteristics.



There are, however, many tricks, tips and simple types of trolling equipment that are still known only to a small proportion
of troll fishermen. Some of these are recent innovations; others have been in use for years in certain areas but have never spread
further afield. In this book, we have tried to incorporate as many of these fishing tips as possible. We hope that all troll fishermen
will be able to find something new here, and use it to improve their fishing operations.



Adopted From Wikipedia

* Trolling Fly Lines

image from : flyfishusa.com

This Under Utilized Technique May be One of the Most Successful: Trolling Fly Lines

Author: Craig Mumby

This under rated trolling technique may be one of the most successful…





By Craig Mumby





If there is one technique that not many people consider when heading to the lake it’s trolling fly lines and it can produce some of the best fishing imaginable. This technique hasn’t had a real chance to prove itself as fly fishermen don’t do it often because a lot of the joy comes from casting and using finesse to persuade the fish to bite. If they’re going to troll why not just break out the spinning or bait-casting gear. On the other side of the coin, non-fly fishermen tend to be intimidated by fly rods and think that it’s both expensive and difficult to learn. Truth be told you can get a fly rod for a very reasonable price these days and it’s actually fairly simple to pick up the basics with minimal practice. More expensive gear and different casting techniques comes with experience, but for this technique you don’t need either. You don’t even need to know how to cast!


There are a wide variety of fish you can target with this method. It is a great technique for all trout species, even early and late season lake trout. But also bass, walleye, pike and pretty much anything else that swims in under 25ft. of water can be fished this way. For me, this is the single most consistent method for catching still water trout.





Go get yourself a fly rod and as I said it doesn’t have to be an expensive outfit though there are certain advantages to things like multiplier, or large arbour reels, as the retrieve ratio is greater and you will be able to gain line quicker on a fish running toward the boat. A standard 9 ft. rod is perfect; anywhere from a 5 weight to a 7 weight are ideal in most situations, but if you’re looking for bigger fish go with a heavier weight; lighter for smaller fish. Personally I like to use a 7 weight because it has enough backbone to work a variety of baits. There is a wide variety of line on the market and the body of water you’re fishing should dictate what “type” to use. There are six types of full sink line: type 1 – type 6. Type 1 runs the shallowest and type 6 the deepest. I use type 6 almost exclusively as it can get down faster and you can effectively fish around the 18 – 22 ft range with a lot of baits. An electric motor and fish finder are certainly advantageous as trout can be easily spooked and it can be crucial to know your depth so you can work your lines along the bottom structure properly. Bring along a good selection of flies such as shrimp and streamer patterns. It’s always a good idea to check with the local tackle shops to see what’s working. Lures like flatfish, quikfish, hot shots and rapalas are excellent choices to bring as long as they don’t have much dive to them and have high action while trolling dead slow. Pick up some fluorocarbon leader material. Leaders in the 9 – 12 ft range are best. I usually use Berkley Vanish and if I’m using something other than a fly, which I usually do, always tie a swivel into the leader or you will have quite the mess on your hands.





“Ripping” flies is one of the most consistent techniques for picking up active fish. Make a nice long fluorocarbon leader, no need for a swivel down to your fly, all on your type 6 sinking line. Don’t be afraid to use big flies! My best fly has always been a double shrimp pattern on a #2 hook. The key to ripping is exactly what it sounds like. Let your line out until the backing, keeping the trolling speed a little higher than what you might be used to and repetitively jerk the rod as hard as you can. The more power the better! This is another benefit of the heavier 7 weight rod; it makes this motion a lot easier on the arms. Essentially, this will make your fly almost swim through the water like a jerk bait and you get a lot of impulse strikes.


If you want to switch to hardware make sure you check the action of your lure at the side of the boat before you lower your line so you know how to gauge the speed for your troll. For example, flatfish are designed to have a lot of action at a very slow rate of speed, so by trolling dead slow you achieve the perfect action which you will notice on your rod tip, and be able to get deeper than lures that require faster action. So, when you want to get to some deeper fish with your type 6 line troll dead slow with a flatfish, kwikfish, or hot shots and you can effectively fish close to the 20 ft mark.


Getting used to the way the lines follow the boat is very important if you want to work an area properly. Let your line out to the backing if you’re fishing deeper than 12 – 15 ft. Fly lines have much greater water resistance than standard line and due to the thicker diameter it won’t cut the water like monofilament. For example, when you make a fairly sharp turn with fly line it will swing more with your turn and follow the path of the boat instead of cut across water and thus stalling your lure. This allows you to work your bait more effectively. When you get used to fishing this way you can estimate your depth and where behind the boat your fly, or lure, is running to within a few feet. Boat control is absolutely crucial when working deeper structure and you can actually work the lines to ride right up a drop off or sink down, whatever the case may be. So, if you’re trolling in 20’ feet of water and you see that the bottom is rising, all you have to do is gradually speed up so your line is elevated by water resistance caused by the speed of the boat. The reverse is also true when you come to a drop off; slow right down and let the line sink with the bottom and speed back up when your line is deep enough. This will put more fish in your boat and you’ll find a lot fun out of concentrating on the bottom and trying to work it properly. Some of my bigger fish have been caught while stalling on a drop off to let the lines sink, then as soon as you kick into gear hold on!





Even though this is not a popular technique it is not due to its lack of productivity. The only reason is that people never think to do it. There are so many different situations where you can apply this technique. I’ve had enormous success fishing for bass, walleye and pike with crankbaits and flies. Another great place to give this a shot is salmon fishing on the west coast. I’ve done very well fishing for coho, pink and sockeye salmon on a third rod out the back in between my downriggers. One of the biggest things to learn in fishing is to be versatile if you want to be consistently successful. Give this technique a shot and I guarantee you won’t be disappointed.

About the Author:
Craig Mumby is twenty eight years old and has been in the sport fishing industry since the age of 18 when he started working with Bob Izumi’s “Real Fishing” show. He has fished professionally for nearly every sport fish in the country. Originally from Toronto, he grew up fishing Ontario’s many lakes and river systems. Currently, Craig guides out of the prestigious Langara Island Lodge in the Queen Charlotte Islands, British Columbia.

Article Source: http://www.articlesbase.com/fishing-articles/this-under-utilized-technique-may-be-one-of-the-most-successful-trolling-fly-lines-325519.html

* Rapala Fishing Lures

image from : whitbyseaanglers.co.uk

Rapala Fishing Lures - How They Developed
Author: Abhishek Agarwal

Rapala Fishing Lures first appeared on the market in 1936, still found in an angler's fishing box today as an essential item. At the beginning, the Rapala Fishing Lures were hand carved using cork and native balsa wood by Lauri Rapala, an avid fisherman from Finland. He noted how fish had a tendency to head towards any injured baitfish and bite aggressively, so he designed a lure that was lightweight and mimicked an injured fish as it moved through the water, so this made the ideal lure.



These first fishing lures were experimental, produced using materials that were accessed from the home. The carved cork with the wood was coved using ordinary tin foil, which produced an even greater result as large fish would make more strikes thinking they had struck lucky with an injured fish. Rapala melted photography negatives which was used as a clear coating to cover the fishing lures to make them waterproof and to seal the tin foil covering. This proved amazing results, in a part of the world that was used to daily fishing events.



All the original Rapala Fishing Lures were handmade and were tested in person by Rapala himself as he had invented them. The demand grew so soon more people were hired to help with production, with the same attention to detail and personal handmade that became Rapala's trademark for each lure that was sold. Today, all Rapala Fishing Lures go through the rigorous testing in a tank before being passed on for sale so as to ensure that it does have the correct movement of an injured fish in water.



Between 1936 and 1965 the Rapala floater was the original and only Rapala Fishing Lure available on the market, then came the balanced jigging lure and the introduction of the saltwater floater. A jointed diver was newly produced in 1974 and in the 1980's came the production of the shad lures.



From 1999, a newer version of Rapala Fishing Lure has been introduced just about every season. These lures are famously sold in over 140 countries worldwide in many stores that sell sporting goods, and with the internet even more have been sold globally. Each year sees a turnover of more than twenty million Rapala Fishing Lures that are sold, which just reflects the actual new ones that are sold in retail outlets. Rapala has also introduced many more fishing gadgest like a fish and fillet knife which came out in 1964, and then came the handheld digital weighing scale in the year 1989. The company, Normark, the owner of the Rapala line include in their product range - rods, reels, accessories and other fishing tools.



Today, the Rapala Fishing Lures continue to be mostly made and tested by the original method of Lauri Rapala's first lure made in his home in 1936, and is still a bestselling lure around the world.

About the Author:

Abhishek is an avid Fishing enthusiast and he has got some great Fishing Secrets up his sleeves! Download his FREE 116 Pages Ebook, "Fishing Mastery!" from his website http://www.Fishing-Masters.com/772/index.htm . Only limited Free Copies available.

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* Trolling reels are typically used for offshore big

image from : tackletour.com

Trolling reels are typically used for offshore big-game trolling in open water.

Trolling is the process of dragging both bait and lures behind a moving vessel, which is a productive way to locate schools of migratory fish. The reason being, when a boat trolls over a school of fish, the wake and commotion on the surface emulates a ball of bait. This triggers the feeding instincts of many offshore species and immediately sends the leading edge of the school towards the commotion to investigate, with the rest of the pack following. As the most aggressive fish in the school frantically try and chase down this commotion, the trolling lures, jigs and baits are the first hint of a meal that they come across. They charge at them with reckless abandon, inhaling what appears to the fish as vulnerable stragglers, desperately trying to catch up with the rest of the pack.

As soon as one of the trolling lures or baits is inhaled, the trolling reel begins to sing, with the clicker of the reel creating a loud noise that notifies the angler to get ready. This sends the anglers into a dash for their gear, yelling "hook-up", which immediately causes the captain to throw the vessel into neutral to stop the boat. As the momentum of the vessel carries the boat forward, the crew begins to throw live bait, either by pieces or in full scoops. By now, the rest of the migrating school has caught up to the commotion and is met with the temptation of live bait, sending them into a feeding frenzy.

However, a wide-open bite is not always the result of a hook-up while trolling. When the fish are down, or when the conditions are far from ideal, trolling will produce the majority of the catch, with no feeding frenzy following the trolled up fish. On these days, it is essential to land every troll fish and having the right equipment is critical in accomplishing this. Trolling rod and reel combos are the most expensive combos on the market today. Due to their importance in locating roaming schools of open water fish, manufacturers like Shimano®, Penn®, Daiwa®, Okuma® and Accurate® incorporate the finest materials and technologies to ensure strength and durability in producing the best fishing reel capable of handling record-breaking trophies.

Trolling reels are typically found in the lever drag system. On these types of fishing reels, the drag pressure adjusts with the slide of a lever, which is located on the top of the reel to the right. Designated markings of, or similar to freespool, strike and full are found on reels like the Penn® International series, Shimano Tiagra® and the Acurrate Twin Drag® saltwater trolling reels. Most later models come in a two- speed version, with two separate gear ratios that serve different purposes. The high gear is to gain as much line as possible with every turn of the handle, sacrificing torque and power. Low gear, on the other hand, provides tremendous torque and in return, sacrifices the ability to retrieve a substantial amount of line per crank. When properly utilized, both gears are designed to maximize the chances of quickly and efficiently landing scale-busting size fish.

The most noticeable difference in a trolling reel are the two rings that sit atop all trolling fishing reels. These rings are part of the frame and hold an enormous amount of strength. Trolling straps are attached through these rings, as well as big game harnesses and on some occasions, a back-up rod and reel combo, a common practice when fishing on long range boats out of San Diego for huge bluefin and yellowfin tuna. Trolling reels are so strong and powerful, I have even seen anglers cut these rings off and even go so far as to make custom frames to readily access the spool and use trolling reels as live bait reels. I do not recommend this practice, as many of the latest star-drag conventional reels will serve the same purpose.

With the high prices of fuel, trolling around in offshore waters can be very costly. That is why every serious big-game angler should consider having the best saltwater tackle available when it comes to their arsenal. The properly maintained saltwater combo can mean the difference in coming home with a trophy of a lifetime, or coming home skunked, carrying an empty sack.
I have been fishing for over 20 years of my life and hope to continue to do so for the next 30. I have dedicated myself to sharing what I have learned through those years in the hopes of promoting this popular outdoor recreational activity by providing commentaries and reviews, video tutorials, fishing tips and more. Come visit my site at http://spinningreels.com for freshwater and saltwater fishing information.

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