* Basic Live Bait

image from : fishing-day.net

In most fishing communities small fish for bait can be obtained. Sardines, anchovies, sardinella, mackerel, herring, squid and cuttlefish are good bait fish (Figure 16), but others can be used as well.
Figure 16. Various bait fish: (a) mackerel; (b) herring; (c) sardine; (d) anchovy; (e) cuttlefish; (f) squid

PREPARING THE BAIT

It is important to keep the bait as fresh as possible and to cut it to the right size for the hook you will use and the fish you want to catch.
Very often the bait fish is caught the evening before you use it. In such cases the bait fish must either be kept alive overnight or be well iced (Figure 17). If you have easy access to ice at a reasonable price, then you can ice your bait on board your boat and be ready to start off before sunrise the next morning. If you cannot get ice, then after killing the bait fish keep it well covered, wrapped in a large leaf and stored away from the sun.

Figure 17. Keeping the bait alive or fresh: (a) bait fish kept alive in net; (b) bait iced in boxes; (c) bait wrapped in large leaves and stored



Figure 18. How to cut the bait fish: (a) cut the head and tail off; (b) slice to suitable size; (c) if the bait fish is large, cut from close to dorsal fin to tail and (d) put the two sides together again and cut to size







The size of bait depends on the size of the hook and should range from a size that covers the gap or throat of the hook to one that covers the whole hook.
When you start cutting the bait, first remove the head (Figure 18a), then slice the fish into pieces as shown in Figure 18b. If the bait fish is a large fish, and the fish you expect to catch is of average size (grouper, snapper or croaker), then cut the large fish lengthwise first (Figure 18c) before cutting the bait to the preferred size (Figure 18d). Insert the knife into the fish close to the dorsal fin and cut forward, and keep the knife as hard against the backbone as possible.
Baiting the hook
We just showed you how to take care of the bait and how to cut the bait. Now you will learn how to bait the hook.
Live baits. Figures 19 and 20 show you how to attach the live bait to the hook.
Dead baits. Always put the point and barb of the hook right through the bait in such a way that the bend of the hook surrounds the backbone of the bait (Figure 21a). If you have split open the bait fish before cutting the bait to size, then the pieces without backbone must be threaded on the hook by putting the point and the barb twice through the bait,always with the barb on the skin side, as shown in Figure 21b.
If you are expecting to catch large fish and are using large hooks connected to the mainline with wire snoods, then small fish like anchovies or sardines can be threaded on the hook in one piece. First put the hook through the head of the bait fish and then through the centre of the body near the backbone or through the eyes (Figure 22a). A similar method is used with squid or cuttlefish (Figure 22b).
Figure 19. Some ways of rigging live bait



Figure 20. Rigging other live baits



Figure 21. Baiting with pieces of fish


Figure 22. Baiting with fish or squid in one piece



Lures
Natural bait can be caught in most coastal areas, but bait capture can be time consuming and may only be possible at certain times or in certain seasons. In addition, natural bait has to be replaced almost every time a fish is caught. However, most fishermen agree that natural bait is more effective than artificial bait or lures. On the other hand, the latter can be used repeatedly and for a long time. It is therefore worth trying to make a few lures and to compare the catches taken with lures to those taken with natural bait.
As you may know, lures are more and more commonly used in handline and troll fishing. The main reason for this is that it is possible to create a vibration with the bait or lure and the larger fish (the predator) can be tricked into striking or attacking the source of the vibration, especially when the shape and possibly the colour of the lure make it look like live bait.
Feathers, plastic, nylon and light metal can all help create the right vibration needed to trick the predator. You must always keep your line moving up and down if you are using a lure when handlining in order to let the lure simulate the movements of live bait as much as possible.
Various varieties of jigs and lures are available in most fishing communities (Figure 23), but you can also make them yourself. Some of the materials you can use to make lures are shown in Figure 24.
As an example, take a hook similar in shape to hook No. 10 in Figure 4.
First, take a piece of cloth and wrap it around the shank and tie it with thin electrical wire, string or nylon (Figure 25a).
Next cut small pieces of coloured nylon twine, untwist them into threads and tie over the cloth as shown in Figure 25b. Finally, tie a few feathers on top of the nylon thread and your lure is ready (Figure 25c).
You can also use wool or cotton yarn instead of nylon, or plastic strips instead of cloth as a first cover.
There are other types of synthetic lures. For example, you can cut out a strip of tyre tube or a piece of plastic, wrap it around the shank leaving a good piece extending below the bend and tie the other end firmly to the shank and the eye. You could also glue it together to form a long tube which you thread onto the hook and tie well (Figure 26).
Figure 23. Various types of artificial bait or lures



Figure 24. Materials that can be used to make lures: (a) wool or cotton; (b) rope fibres, possily coloured; (c) strips of cloth; (d) feathers from different birds; (e) plastic strips, preferably coloured; (f) twine or thin wire; (g) tyre tube or piece of thin rubber or plastic sheet


Figure 25. Assembling a lure


It is advisable, when using artificial lures instead of live bait, to smear the liver from the first fish caught on the lure or hooks. You are now ready to go handline fishing with gear made by yourself. Good luck!
Figure 26. Lure made of a piece of plastic or tyre tube


Source
Originated by: Fisheries and Aquaculture Department
http://www.fao.org/

Text: B. A. Bjarnason
Illustrations: M. Carlesi

The designations employed and the presentation of material in this publication do not imply the expression of any opinion whatsoever on the part of the Food and Agriculture Organization of the United Nations concerning the legal status of any country, territory, city or area or of its authorities, or concerning the delimitation of its frontiers or boundaries.

David Lubin Memorial Library Cataloguing in Publication Data
Bjarnason. B.A.
Handlining and squid jigging
(FAO Training Series, no. 23 )
ISBN 92-5-103100-2

* End Weighting Means Control

image pensacolafishingforum.com

By Ken Mack

Control wins in NASCAR. The ability to draft and “trade paint” while jockeying for position. The dominance of one team over another.

Control is an underlying force that breeds success in everything we do, fishing included. We see it in skilled fly anglers as they strip line and precariously place poppers in the pads. In seasoned jiggers, as they deftly tick lead across rocks and timber without snagging, yet remain able to decipher the slight nip of a walleye. Surprising to some, though, might be the fact that control is equally as meaningful to a bobber fisherman.

Control means hanging bait at a precise depth, as well as balancing a float to where the sniff of a bluegill makes it plunge. It’s taking a seemingly elementary bobber and building it into a system, a controlled system that can pry any species from any depth regardless of the time of year. And it all begins with End Weighting.

Fleshed to its core, end weighting is the combining of meat and mass. The hook and weight become one, yielding no mystery of depth or margin of error, but instead transferring control to the angler. It can be achieved in one of two ways: Firstly, the hook and weight can be married in the form of a jig. The hook is now the sinker. Both the float and jig linger endlessly in known and fixed positions.

End weighting is also achievable with split-shot sinkers pinched above a plain hook. The average bobber-user will span some 12 to 18 inches between sinkers and hook. The belief is that by allocating such a generous swim range that the bait is more likely to attract suitors. Not necessarily so. Struggling foodstuffs, especially minnows, will tire and eventually die from the stress. In end weighting, it’s wisest to lay only an inch or two between the hook and shot. As unlikely as it may seem, that allows plenty of scope for the bait to dance seductively, all the while maintaining constant depth.

Too many inches between the weight and bait also promote tangling. During the cast, the bobber, weight, and bait orbit at various speeds, ultimately colliding and weaving with one another.

Total control also involves knowledge of depth. The angler must know exactly where the offering is at all times. If the distance between the float and bait is adjusted to 5 feet, you’re assured the bait is 5 feet below the surface. No inconsistencies triggered by a rambunctious minnow or leech, as would occur with a non-end weighted presentation.

Absolute control concerns balance as well. Balance in the dominion of end weighting and float fishing is often referred to as neutral buoyancy. In essence, matching the weight and bait to the buoyancy properties of your bobber. The goal is to load the bait so the bobber scarcely stays afloat – it’s treading water but still visible. Consequently, even the gentlest bite causes the bobber to descend or at minimum skew from its natural position.

Control also entails the governing of vertical and horizontal space. Casting distance is your vehicle of horizontal exposure. Waters between you and where the bobber comes to rest constitute the horizontal plane. Vertical coverage area – column of water – is addressed by the float’s depth setting and your aptitude to jig. Yes, jig. First and foremost, a bobber is a strike indicator. It notifies the angler that something is going on below. But if end weighted and rigged as a slip bobber, a float also performs as a jigging platform. When line is pulled through the float – reeling or jerking – the bobber-stop slides up and away, consequently raising the presentation a corresponding distance. So if the bobber stop is jigged 3 feet and the float – jigging platform – remains in position, the lure then rises 3 feet, yielding greater vertical coverage. This principle allows you to explore an expanded vertical area, as well as draw fish by way of the lure’s action.

Truthfully, it’s as easy to pick apart a 6 foot deep weed flat as it is a 30 foot basin.

Let’s apply the concepts of end weighting and controlled bobber fishing to something tangible, say springtime crappies. Imagine that you’re attacking a shallow bay. The zone under scrutiny is a 6 foot deep stump filled area with newly emerging vegetation.

Your jig, bait – wax worms, minnow, or soft plastic – and float are composed to neutral buoyancy. Go ahead and set the bobber stop to 4 feet and cast beyond your targeted area. During the retrieve, mix slow reels, pauses, and a few tugs. Again, using the float as a jigging platform, make the jig rise 1 to 3 feet. The presentation ascends and falls in an attractive display, however remains under your complete control. Each cast probes a wide swath between you and where the bobber initially landed. Motor along and continue the process. When a strike occurs, the jigging platform reverts back into a strike indicator and beckons you to set the hook.

A similar scenario unfolds in the presence of walleyes. Suppose that you’re banging the deep transition area of an extended underwater point. You’ll need to upgrade jig size and make a move to minnows, crawlers or leeches. The top of the structure is 12 feet deep with a sharp break that bottoms-out at 20 feet. Set your bobber stop at 19 feet and hurl it onto the 12 foot crown. The bait will begin its quest on the bottom, where a walleye might vacuum it right up. But if not, crank down on the reel a few times. (Had a fish slurped the jig you’d feel its weight.) Continue to work the bait across the 12 foot area. Once off the apex and break, the float will right itself. The bait’s now hovering over a critical area. Let it sit awhile. She’s in a good spot and the live bait is laboring on your behalf. But if nothing filches it, drag the float slowly towards the boat, incorporating pauses along the way. On the following cast you’ll want to integrate a few jerks, raising the jig 1 to 3 feet above its fixed position. Control is with you. A walleye should soon be in the boat.

Choosing a suitable bobber is also important to building an end weighted system. The market place is flooded with slip-bobbers, many of which suffice, but none perform better than the Rocket Bobber. To maximize coverage of horizontal space, the Rocket Bobber is powerful for its size, casting like a surface to water missal. It can be end weighted and rigged as a slip-bobber without cutting the line, or clipped-on and fished traditionally. For end weighting, the large Rocket Bobber is designed to perform with a 1/8 ounce weight and the smaller version a 1/16 ounce weight. In clip-on mode, the Rocket Bobber – fishing for panfish with a light lure – is designed to lay flat on the water. When a fish inhales the bait, the bobber begins standing upright. Set the hook! Now that’s sensitive…

Float fishing needn’t be relegated to dock fishing and partygoers on pontoons. End weighting is a meaningful tool that matches wits with the most high-tech tactics on the water, and it’s easy to do as well.

The astounding Rocket Bobber is available at sporting goods retailers and bait shops nationwide. If your local fishing dealer doesn’t handle them, contact Tackle 2000 Inc. at PO Box 541, Tomahawk, WI 54487-0541. Call Tackle 2000 at 715.224.2229 or visit their website at www.tackle2000.com.

This Fishing Article is brought to you by Noel Vick with On Ice Tour
Please visit this Website for more information.

Source article http://www.walleyehunter.com/

* Snook Fishing

image gibbysfishingblog.blogspot.com

By Capt. Robert McCue

There’s no question that fishing for snook when the bite is on, has more to offer than any other type of fishing in Florida. Then again, when snook fishing conditions are off, you are better off fishing for other Florida gamefish. Let's take a look at Florida snook and our snook fishing charters...perhaps you too have what it takes to be a relentless Florida snooker.



Snook. Just the name strains even the imagination. Living in a jungle of snags or on open water Florida sugar-sand beaches, striking like marauding tuna or with the elegance of dining royalty, walking on water or slugging it out deep, there is nothing common about the Common Snook- except the animal's natural beauty and the memories the fish leaves with you after the fight.



Snook are sub-tropical fish and are most common to Central America. Historic changes in the earth's weather is what brought the snook to Florida. It is believed that during a great warming trend after the Ice Age, snook moved northward along the Mexico shoreline. They followed the perimeter of the Gulf of Mexico, down the West Coast of Florida and up the East Coast. Since then, continued changes in the weather patterns have just about eliminated the population north of Homosassa on the West Coast and Port Canaveral on the East Coast of Florida.



Snook are complicated animals. Among other things they are highly temperature sensitive. Like other fish they are cold-blooded animals, meaning they rely on the temperature of the water to heat their bodies. The snook's comfort range is between 68 degrees Fahrenheit to 78 degrees Fahrenheit. Anything outside that range and the fish become sluggish and inactive. Much below the lower range is a real matter of concern to the snook. Snook cannot tolerate sudden changes much below 60 degrees. Below 58 degrees snook are in danger of dying. A sudden blast from Jack Frost is a sure death sentence. We have learned just recently that if the water slowly falls below 58 degrees, snook can acclimate and survive. For how long and how much they can handle is uncertain. Thanks to warmer weather patterns over the last decade, Florida is enjoying some great snook fishing. Understanding weather, temperature, and periods of daylight are essential to catching this sleek gamefish. I believe more so than other fish we hunt on our Florida fishing charters, snook are the most temperamental to the elements.



Though snook don't actually migrate or "run'' on the West Coast of Florida, they do make great movements throughout their range. These movements are more of an east and west direction than north and south on the Florida Gulf Coast.



During the winter, snook move to areas of warmer water. Rivers and deep creeks feature freshwater run-offs and springs that seep water from the earth at a comfortable 72 degrees. Deep water canals and ship ports offer an insulation blanket. Slower to cool, snook can use these man-made holes to stay away from the rapid cooling of the bays and the Gulf. Florida power plants and their warm- water discharges offer a great refuge to winter snook lucky enough to find them.

Adopted From : http://www.activeangler.com/flyfishing-articles/mccue-snook.shtml

* How to use a very effective tuna fishing technique to catch more snapper

image from : amazingdata.com

It must have been about ten or so years ago. We were chasing some fresh bait. The shallow bay in the Bay of Islands was just about perfect for netting some piper (garfish). At high tide the bay was little more than chest deep at the deep end of the drag net, and the bottom covered in eelgrass.
So we quietly set ourselves up – me on the shallow end – of course - and Ed the lad on the deep end – as it should be. Ed waded first waded straight out, then across the bay, pulling the net into a line across the beach, then letting out rope as he waded returned to shore. We then started to haul in the net.
As the net neared shore we knew we had scored. The belly of the net rippled with fish. By the time we pulled the net onto the beach we knew we had scored to well. We had scooped up a huge school of sprats, hundreds of them. Far to many for us to keep at our freezer-less campsite. Far too many to even give away. We threw as many back as we could, but as sprats seem to do – many died, apparently from shock. We ended up with four or five big buckets of bait.
But all was not lost, nor wasted. The next day, Ed the lad and I were to join a couple of friends of ours, on their boat, for a spot of snapper fishing. I had been doing some reading on tuna ‘cubing’ or ‘chunking’ (depending on whether the magazine was American or Australian) and a germ of an idea had formed. The time for the idea to germinate had arrived.
We reached the rock about mid-morning and anchored up current. Ed and I then set about cutting a big heap of sprats into chunks, about three chunks per sprat. Then we started to feed these chunks over the side, two or so at a time. As these chunks disappeared into the depths, another two followed.
Meantime we all rigged up with tiny ball-sinkers straight onto the hook, pinned a chunk of sprat on the hook and slowly let the baits drift back behind the boat.
“Fish biting just about every bait that drifted back”
For the first half-hour, maybe more, very little happened, and there began some low grumbling amongst the crew. Towards the end of that time the grumbling began to turn into mutinous rumbling, and ‘chunking’ was being consigned to another one of my harebrained schemes. But as if on cue a couple of snapper decided to bite a bait or two, and soon it was all on – really on. Fish biting just about every bait that drifted back.
The only break in the action coming when we realised we had forgotten, in the excitement, to keep the chunking trail going. But soon after the trail was started again, the fish began to bite. A truly memorable day.
The idea did not die.
Sometime later I miscalculated the defrosting time of a ten kilo block of pilchards. I was left with something approaching ten kilos of mush. Putting the mess back in the freezer solidified the problem till the next fishing trip. We picked up some good quality pilchards, and with the mushy pillies in the bottom of a fish bin we headed to the latest spot ‘x’. Anchored up, Ed and I set up a chunk trail using the spoiled bait. Down this trail we drifted chunks of our firmer pilchards. Soon snapper in numbers and good quality began to hit our baits.
Another time saw the dregs and dross from the bottom of the bait freezer come into play. It had to happen. Some of the fish down in the deep dark depths of that freezer had last seen the light of day too many years ago. It was not one of the more pleasant jobs to come my way.
But for every yin there is a yang. I now owned a solid base of fillets from kahawai, trevally, and such to set up the cubing trail from Hades. While the fillets were still malleable I cut the fillets into cubes about 2 or 3 cm square, and re-froze them in bags.
So all was ready, and the next time Ed and I headed out in the tiny tinny the cubes came with us, and out they went, in an unending stream. Down the trail we drifted cubes of skipjack tuna loaded with a hook. We had great sport.
The technique works – and well it should – it seems to have three key factors leading to success.



• First the of chunks or cubes sets up both a visual and odour trail that is attractive to fish.

• Second the trail is dispensed slowly enough that it may well set up ‘competition’ between fish to get at the chunks as they drift down – this may make it easier to tempt them with a hook laden bait.

• Thirdly, the hooked chunks are drifting down at about the same rate as the unhooked chunks – the hooked baits look as ‘natural’ as the unhooked baits.
There are a couple of factors that need to be taken into account when using this technique.



It is bait intensive – you need heaps of bait to set up a good trail, and you need to maintain it throughout the fishing session.
The cubes or chunks should not be fed out too quickly. Judgement needs to be used here, but a chunk or two every thirty to forty seconds is often about right. But this is relative to fishing depth and current flows.

The hooked baits need to be weighted, (or not weighted), so that they sink at much the same rate as the free sinking chunks. Resist the temptation to add more weight to get a bait back down to the fish quicker. In my experience this usually just means the bait falls below the trail and away from the fish. If fish are directly below the boat in no-current situations this is less of a problem.

The best technique for feeding out line is to have the reel in free-spool - with the thumb lightly on the spool shoulder - pull off line at a rate that allows to bait to free-fall but not to the point where there is too much slack wafting about in the water. For this reason I find it better to use a free-spool reel rather than a spinning reel. It is just so much easier to control the drift, and get the reel into gear when a fish strikes.
I find that using recurve (sometimes called ‘longline’ or JAP) hooks work best for this type of fishing. Because there is - or should be - little or no tension on the line as the bait drifts back, it can be very difficult to detect bites. Recurve hooks are self-setting, relying on the fish biting on them to push the point into flesh, so they are ideal for this job.
The breaking strain of the line you use is important too. Too heavy a line - read too thick - and the baited chunk or cube will not sink at the same rate as the unhooked chunks. This is more especially true if the trail is drifting down in a current. It also needs to be remembered that the cube or chunk used as a hooked bait should be around the same size as the chunks used in the trail. So too heavy a line will exaggerate drift problems as there may not be enough weight in the bait to pull the heavy line down.
Just a quick observation about bait size. In general I have found that the hooked bait should be around the same size as the chunks or cubes used for the trail – and it seems to make little difference to the size of fish caught. I catch small fish and bigger fish in around the usual ratio. But I also as a matter of course fire out a really big bait, a skipjack head or large fillet, or four or five pillies hung off a 8/0 hook, way back down the trail. This has picked up some very big fish.
As far as using a berley (ground bait) trail when cubing goes, I have found it better not to. It is only a theory of mine but I think that because a berley trail sinks at a different rate to the chunks you can end up with two distinct trails. This is counter productive. Besides a berley trail to often ends up attracting hoards of small bait fish which eat the cubes before they have a chance to reach snapper holding below.

Source And Adopted From

www.bishfish.co.nz/

* Tying the Original Copper John

Tying the Original Copper John
by John Barr
The Copper John



Hook: Size 10-18 Tiemco 5262
Bead: Gold
Weight: Lead Wire
Thread: Black 70-denier Ultra Thread
Tail: Brown goose biots
Abdomen: Copper Ultra Wire
Wing Case : Black Thin Skin and pearl Flashabou covered with 30-minute epoxy
Thorax: Peacock herl
Legs: Mottled brown hen back
I also changed the materials for the tail and legs. The partridge wasn't very durable, so I switched from hen-back feathers to fibers for the legs and to goose blots for the tail. The hen-back fibers were durable and came in a variety of mottled colors.
To make the fly sink faster, I wrapped lead wire on the hook under the thorax. I chose the metal bead, lead, wire abdomen, and slim profile to achieve the fastest sink rate possible. I added a tapered thread underbody so the abdomen had a nice taper when the wire was wrapped over it. The fly was almost where I wanted it. The final piece was put into place when artist Dave Hall suggested pulling a single piece of pearl Flashabou over the top of the Thin Skin before applying the epoxy. The pattern was finished.
At first I only tied the fly in natural copper. Michael White, owner of Blue Ribbon Sales, who lives in Boulder, Colorado, suggested I try red and green wire. It took me a few years to try the red and green, which turned out to be productive colors. In spring 2001, Wapsi introduced Ultra Wire, a tarnish-proof wire available in a wide assortment of colors. The original copper-colored fly now shared space in my fly box with Copper Johns tied in red, green, chartreuse, silver, wine, zebra (black and silver), black, blue, and hot pink.
Tying Steps: Copper John
1. Place the bead on the hook by inserting the hook point into the smaller hole on the front of the bead. Slide the bead up to the hook eye. Insert the hook into the vise. Wrap thirteen turns of lead wire onto the hook shank from the back of the hook to the front.

2. Break off both ends of the lead with your thumbnail. Shove the lead wraps up into the back of the bead, countersinking the wraps into the recess

3. Start the tying thread at the back edge of the lead wraps. Build a smooth taper from the bare hook shank up to the lead wire and continue with a smooth thread base back to the bend of the hook. Leave the tying thread hanging at the bend.

4. Select two matched biots from the quill. Pull two that are right next to each other to assure that they are the same width and length. Place the biots back to back so they curve away from each other, and even their tips. Measure the biots against the hook shank so they are equal to one-half a shank length long.

5. Place the opposed biots at the hook bend with one on each side of the hook shank. Turn them so they are slightly off-center toward the near side of the hook.

6. Wrap two turns of thread over the biots to hold them in place on the near side of the hook. If you tie them in at a slight angle, thread torque pulls them onto the correct position. Pull the tying thread down to tighten the loops of thread and pull the biots on top of the hook shank.

7. Wrap forward over the butt ends of the biots to just in front of the hook point.

8. Properly tied-in biot tails.

9. Continue wrapping forward over the butt ends of the biots up to and onto the lead wraps. The butt ends will help build the taper to the lead wraps.

10. Clip the butt ends of the biots and wrap a smooth thread base from the base of the tail to the three-quarter point on the shank. The thread base should be as smooth as possible and have an even taper from front to back.

11. Cut a length of copper wire about 6 or 8 inches long and tie it in at the front of the thread underbody on top of the hook.

12. Wrap back over the copper wire to the base of the tails. Make several tight turns of thread coming forward from the bend to secure the wire. Keep these thread wraps as smooth as possible.

13. Continue forward with the thread to the front end of the abdomen.

14. Begin wrapping the wire forward from the hook bend in tight, concentric turns. Tilting the wire back slightly as you wrap will allow the next wrap to roll off the edge of the previous wrap, butting the turns together. Continue wrapping the copper wire forward to the end of the thread underbody. Tie the wire off at the front edge of the underbody with two tight turns of thread. Clip the excess wire with a pair of nail clippers, or twist the remaining end around in a circle until it breaks off. Cover the stub end with a few turns of tying thread.

15. Cover the lead wraps between the copper wire abdomen and the back of the bead with a thin layer of thread. Only use enough thread to eliminate the spaces between the lead wire. Tie in a single strand of pearl Flashabou directly on top of the hook and make certain that it is centered on the hook. Wrap back over the Flashabou and the front end of the copper abdomen so it is tied in back to the point shown.

16. Cut a strip of Thin Skin slightly narrower than the width of the hook gap. Leave the Thin Skin on the paper backing while you cut the strip. If you remove the whole sheet it will roll up into an unusable ball. After you cut the strip to the correct width, peel the Thin Skin strip from the paper backing. Tie the Thin Skin strip in on top of the hook shank at the front of the abdomen and wrap back over it to the 70 percent point on the hook shank. Tie the Thin Skin in with the shiny side (the side that was adhered to the paper backing) facing up.

17. Wrap the thread forward to a point just behind the bead.

18. Select five or six bushy peacock herls and trim their tips evenly. Tie the peacock in by its tips just behind the bead and wrap back over them to the base of the Thin Skin wing case. Return the thread to the back edge of the bead.


Read More free to Download Articel Tying the Original Copper John

* Fishing Rod Types

image from : fishing-tackle.us

Fishing Rod Types - Tips To Choose The Right One

Author: Abhishek Agarwal
Once you have decided to pursue a hobby of fishing you must do some research into the techniques of fishing and the equipment that is available in the market. To begin with you must determine which kind of fishing rod is best suited for your needs.



There are basically two types of fishing rods among the many available to choose form. These are the detachable rod and the single piece fishing rod.



In the beginning the fishing rods were made from single bamboo or cane pieces that rarely exceeded 12 feet. The more popular fishing rods were 6 feet to 9 feet long. The 12 foot fishing rod facilitated fishermen to reach way out over the water from the side of the lake or river. Shorter rods required one to find a branch that extended over the water in order to reach out to the middle.



As time went by the bamboo rods were refined and the rods were made by fusing three strips of cane or bamboo together with some glue and binding them together with string to produce strength and flexibility. Then in recent times these rods gave way to the modern fiber glass fishing rod that has grown into the most popular fishing rod.



Modern day fishing rods can be dismantled quite easily and quickly into three or more parts to facilitate storage in small areas and are easy to transport as well. These rods are very durable and offer many conveniences to the angler such as easily attaching a different spool along with the appropriate line in just a few minutes. There is no need to carry many fishing rods for different types of fish. One rod can accommodate different fishing techniques and equipment and the length of the rod itself can be easily and quickly adjusted too.



It is best to choose a fiber glass fishing rod when you go out to purchase a rod for yourself. These rods require no maintenance and are very durable. They are suited to all weather conditions. The handles of these rods can be interchanged and they can accommodate fishing reel and tackle for all types of fish.



Fiber glass fishing rods can be either solid or hollow; both are equally durable and attractive to. So, when choosing your fishing rod you must look for a certain amount of flexibility, you do not want the rod to bend excessively nor do you want it to be too rigid. It must also not be made of very brittle material or it will snap under the weight of a large fish.

Your local sports store will be able to advise you on your first purchase, then your experience will guide you further. So get yourself a fishing rod and let nature teach you the rest.
About the Author:
Abhishek is an avid Fishing enthusiast and he has got some great Fishing Secrets up his sleeves! Download his FREE 116 Pages Ebook, "Fishing Mastery!" from his website http://www.Fishing-Masters.com/772/index.htm . Only limited Free Copies available.
Article Source: http://www.articlesbase.com/fishing-articles/fishing-rod-types-tips-to-choose-the-right-one-776096.html

* Line Weighing

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Line Weighing
The Key to Your Jig Fishing Success

Fishing is a sport that's relaxing and based on friendship, but when it gets a little competitive, start stringing up your jig stick! Jig fishing has a tendency to separate the best anglers from the rest, and it tends to separate the big fish from the little ones. Fish instinctively understand what can or cannot fit down their gullets. A small fish that's been eating well is usually not interested to attack and digest a bulky jig. Big fish, on the other hand, prefer a bulky meal that a jig represents to them. Five fish caught on jigs will be bigger than five fish caught on any other type of lure. Still, jig fishing is a difficult skill, and it takes a lot of effort even for a jig master to drill out those five fish. It's not easy!

A jig is not a lure for open water or unobstructed bottom. Jig fishing is usually done in something - heavy weed or wood cover, flooded brush, sunken tree tops, rock rubble, cypress knees, tulle berms, etc. The snaggier, the better. Even in open areas, a jig will do best when it contacts small, isolated pieces of cover or slightly rougher bottom patches.

A jig is first and foremost, a drop bait. Jig fishing in shallow water (0 to 6 feet) gets you many fish on the drop before the jig even hits the bottom. If the jig is not accosted on the way down, just let it lay motionless for a while. Fish cannot stand this and will pick the jig off the bottom as it lays there. Still no hit? Jiggle it around without moving it forward - and let it lay motionless again. Repeat the jiggle and pause once or twice, then wind it in and drop it in another spot. It really doesn't pay to try to work it across the bottom in shallow cover. If the fish did not hit you on the way down or on the pause between jiggles, it's probably not going to hit you as you swim or drag it back across bottom. So just wind it in quick and drop it in another spot. The initial drop is the key. The jig has lots of visible and audible appeal as it drops. And yes, use liberal doses of fish attractant. Rattles are optional. With or without rattles. I am happy with my catches.

Jig fishing in deeper water is different. You can cast it out away from you, and reel it steadily across bottom until it bounces into any sort of underwater cover. Once you contact cover, stop reeling and just jiggle and bumble the jig all into the cover while hardly moving it forward at all. Still use the jiggle and pause tactic, and expect to get picked up on the pause. In deep water, you will get fish that whack you when you reel up to make another cast. So always let the jig hang suspended for a moment when you reel up all the way. When you get six feet off the bottom, jiggle it as it hangs there and see if you get bit. No takers? Just reel up and cast again.

The key to detecting bites in either shallow or deep water is to always know what your line weighs. As an alternative, you could become a line watcher which means to stare intently at the line where it enters the water. If you see the line twitch, streak off to the side or any other unusual movement in the line, it means a fish is toying with your jig. In the long run, however, you will become a better jig fisherman if you learn to line weigh rather than line watch. Let's talk about this.

You should know what your jig feels like at all times:

• When it drops

• When it rests on the bottom

• When you are lifting it up off bottom

Your jig can never feel any different than it is - it will always feel the same. Sometimes wind can encumber your feel. In wind, you may need to upsize the jig weight to retain its feel.

If you ever feel anything different, it can only ever be one of two things:

1. You are or will soon be snagged

2. Or a fish has the jig!

Now, you often hear advice that if you feel anything different, you should heroically haul off and set the hook. But if you do that, you will have a snag more often than you have a fish. What to do? Load increasingly steady but slight tension onto the line and rod tip by drawing the tip up or reeling in ever so slowly. If it is a snag, you will feel a lack of life, and you should back off to try to work yourself out of the snag before you get snagged too deeply. If it is a fish, you will feel one of two things:

1. Weightlessness. Absolutely nothing. Like your jig is floating in space. Reel in to get slack out of the line until you feel weight, load the rod tip, then whack away!

2. Vibrancy. Some feeling of life. Trust me, you'll instinctively know it's a live feeling of some sort on your line even if it is indescribable to put into words. Reel in just enough to begin loading the rod tip and whack away!

If you believe you had a fish on, but it spit the bait before you can whack it, JUST LEAVE THE BAIT THERE. You can usually jiggle it a bit and they will often pick it up again. Then whack them ASAP! Largemouth may come back once. Smallies may give you numerous chances.

So that's called line weighing, and it is a better and more reliable skill to learn than line watching.

Line weighing is the key to jig fishing success.

Source : http://www.bassdozer.com/articles/jig-fishing.shtml

* Barramundi Fishing in Thailand

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Barramundi Fishing in Thailand - An Amazing Days Fishing for the
Ultimate Predator
By Jason Butler

Firstly, I have to admit my ignorance, when I was told that
there were Barramundi in Thailand I was very surprised. Thinking
they were only native to Australia, it was pointed out to me
that these fish in fact populate many freshwater lakes
throughout Asia. So I went along to Bor Num Lake with a friend
of mine (John); who is also a keen angler and has been living in
Bangkok for over thirteen years.

The lake is actually called Bor Num Barramundi fishing park,
and the ticket for the day cost 100 Thai baht (approx 2 British
pounds or 3 US dollars), excellent value for money. It is
possible to hire spinning rods and tackle for an additional 100
baht per person. Bor Num Lake also offers the chance to try your
hand at fly fishing; the price is the same which ever code of
fishing is chosen. It was suggested to us that we use lures when
fishing for the barramundi, we were in total agreement -lure
fishing always appeals- as the action and excitement is second
to none when fishing for predators using this system.

It turns out that fishing for barramundi is extremely popular
amongst Thais, especially at the weekends where many come to
enjoy the fishing activities. Though catching and eating your
quarry is something that has never appealed to me, many anglers
here, Thais and foreigners alike do. You can enjoy these fish in
the restaurant for -an additional cost- if you so wish, the fish
is prepared by the local chefs to your taste (the lake is
frequently stocked, to counter the fish taken for the pot).You
can always put the fish back if this is not your bag.

There is not much protection from the sun here, so one must
stay well covered up as the sun will easily nuke the skin, even
sun block struggles to keep the rays at bay. So a good hat and a
long sleeved shirt are the order of the day.

The staff were very friendly giving us plenty of tips and
advice, without which I feel we may have struggle to catch; when
fishing here one needs to use different techniques than when at
home fishing.

The Barramundi have been farmed commercially in lakes here in
Thailand for over twenty years, they are extremely aggressive
hunters and when hooked give one serious fight. Usually clearing
the water with energetically charged leaps, which causes large
splashes as they land again, bringing the angler much approved
applause and cheer from the local observers.

We found that poppers with a fly attached to a 30lb leader
proved to be the most successful lures (as recommended by the
guide). Barramundi have a sharp gill plate and the larger fish
can cut through 40lb Fluorocarbon shock leader in one swipe. We
used bait casting rods 6 feet in length and bait casting reels
which are used specifically for lure fishing (they look very
much like multiplying reels).

The lake is not a fish farm and it is quite easy to blank here
if the wrong methods are used, but if you get it right a
fantastic day will be had. The fish do vary in size form 1kg
(2.2lb) up to and beyond 10kg (22lbs).

Unbelievably the first cast of the day resulted in John hitting
into a monster, with in seconds this Barramundi leapt clear of
the water creating much excitement in the camp (the guide
pointing out that when the fish breaches the water, it is best
to lower the tip of the rod, so as not to give the fish too much
chance of shedding the hook) John then proceeded to wrestle for
a further five minutes with his quarry, again the magnificent
barramundi cleared the water several more times before finally
subduing to the net. A 4.8kg fish on the first cast and about
twenty more in total, not bad at all for a couple of beginners.
A few tips:-

It is debatable whether to use a tour company or not. If you
are confident of finding your way and have your own transport
then it is not essential to pay the extra for a tour company.
The staff at Born Num is very experienced and probably knows
more about their water than the guides from agencies.

If live bait fishing you must buy out the fish, you can not
catch and release when live baiting due to the almost guaranteed
take.

A small tip is appreciated but not compulsory for the guides at
Bor Num – we gave B100 tip for good service all day
The guides are kept very bust usually looking after 5 or 6
anglers at a time.

Food and drinks are ordered via the guide, so you do not have
to leave the waters edge.
Toilets are not European Style, but clean.

There is a very friendly atmosphere and the local fishermen are
only too willing to help, giving friendly advice and tips
without being too intrusive.

So all in all a fantastic day was had by all and we became
hooked ourselves and will certainly be returning to Bor Num very
soon.

About the Author: Jason Butler is a free lance writer. He is
currently residing in Thailand and enjoying life. Writing
articles on Fishing and Steam engine models is a passion of his.
He is also a scuba Diving Instructor with over ten years
experience. http://www.john-tom.com/
http://jason-stealinrubies.blogspot.com/

Source: http://www.isnare.com

Permanent Link: http://www.isnare.com/?aid=326280&ca=Recreation

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Walleye Fishing Jig:Casting, Vertical Jigging Tips And Methods

Author: mark fleagle

Old School Walleye Fishing Family Secrets

Casting Jigs For Walleye

There are many excellent walleye artificial lures that work in different situations but by far the most universal artificial that constantly catches walleye is the lead head jig manufactured with the walleye in mind. A walleye jig is a natural choice for walleyes because it is easy to keep on the bottom where the fish spends most of their time.

Among the most versatile of artificial lures for walleye , a walleye jig can be fished many different ways.You can anchor your boat and cast for walleye,you can drift your boat and use bottom bouncers or do vertical jigging techniques for walleye, or you can do a slow troll using either bottom bouncers or plain jigs. And, you can fish a walleye jig plain when the walleyes are biting, or you can tip it with live bait when the fishing is slow.

Casting walleye fishing jigs

The most widely used jigging for walleye fishing technique is casting and this technique works great in shallow water.If the walleyes are in the shallows it's important not to spook them. Make sure you anchor far enough away, but still being able to cast into the shallows.

If you plan on working a shallow reef , anchor in a deep water position , so the the wind will push you to the edge of the reef. If do not get any walleye bites, don't quit! move you your boat about 20yards to left or right and anchor again. Repeat this process until you get a walleye hit.

If the walleye are not schooled, and are located at different points about the reef, or breakline, drift your your boat near the reef or breakline but but not on it, then cast your wallye fishing jig towards the shallows working the jig back towards you.I would recommend you have your electric trolling motor ready to keep you running parallel with the reef or breakline.Use your trolling motor to keep you boat drifting parallel to the reef or breakline. If you catch a walleye toss out a marker and work the area until the fish stop biting then move on.

If the walleyes are suspended off the bottom , count your jig for walleye down to different depths after you cast then begin to reel your line in. When you get a strike make sure you remember your count. (I right it down). Then repeat the same count on the next cast.

Remember casting jigs for walleye work best when the fish or in the shallows. If you realy want to be successful at walleye fishing you need to master fishing with walleye artificial baits.

About the Author:

Mark Fleagle Webmaster. 30+ Years Of Fishing Experience Expert Author At Ezinearticles.com. Click This Link To Find Out More About walleye fishing jig

Article Source: http://www.articlesbase.com/fishing-articles/walleye-fishing-jigcasting-vertical-jigging-tips-and-methods-794588.html

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Fishing With The Right Line - Sure Way To Get A Catch

Author: Abhishek Agarwal
Irrespective of your place of choice, be it the deep waters of the open sea or the clear running waters of the fresh water rivers, you are bound to face challenges on every fishing trip. How you deal with the challenges depends on your fishing experience. The crux of solving every fishing problem is having the correct amount of patience and knowing the habits of the fish you are after.



It is important to get yourself well versed with the fishing laws of the place you plan to cast your line. Different places have different fishing rules and laws that need to be adhered to. It is also important to learn some fishing etiquette before you start t on a journey angling for the different fish at the various places in the countryside. Only then must you begin to learn the ways to use your fishing line and tackle.



If you want to make a success of your fishing hobby you must have the correct equipment for the job. You must know which fishing line is best suited for the particular fish you are after because getting the wrong fishing line will result in many problems such as lost catches and tangles popularly known as 'birds nests'



Basically you will find that the market has 4 different kinds of fishing lines to offer. These are 'monofilament' braided, fluorocarbon and fused fishing lines.



Monofilament Fishing Line

This is by far the most popular fishing line on the market and has been around for many moons. This kind of fishing line is well suited for almost all fishing situations. There is only one problem with this kind of fishing line, it tends to stay the shape it is stored in. So when you unwind the line after some tine you will find that he line stays curled or 'spooled'.



Braided Fishing Lines

This is the strongest fishing line available. They do not stretch and easy to see in the water as it floats easily. The disadvantage of this kind of line is its strength. It can cause serious abrasions on anything it rubs against such as the angers hands and fishing rod guides.



Fused Fishing Lines

These are very similar to the braided fishing lines with the only difference being the manufacturing process of the line. These are a number of filaments that are fused together with glue rather than being woven together. This makes it difficult to cut through with a sharp object and it also tends to slide around on the reel making it difficult to wind tightly. Fish can spot the line easily which makes catching them quite a challenge.



Fluorocarbon Fishing Lines

These are gaining popularity among as it is virtually invisible to the fish and easy to store. So, once you have experimented with all the four categories of fishing lines you are sure to choose the Fluorocarbon Fishing Line as your preferred fishing line.
About the Author:
Abhishek is an avid Fishing enthusiast and he has got some great Fishing Secrets up his sleeves! Download his FREE 116 Pages Ebook, "Fishing Mastery!" from his website http://www.Fishing-Masters.com/772/index.htm . Only limited Free Copies available.
Article Source: http://www.articlesbase.com/fishing-articles/fishing-with-the-right-line-sure-way-to-get-a-catch-776101.html

Trolling for Hard Water ‘Eyes

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Trolling for Hard Water ‘Eyes
by Colin D. Crawford

Trolling has always been a way to find fish that are neutral or lethargic in the summer time. Trouble is when the water gets hard and ice forms it is really hard to go out and start trolling. Most ice augers even today do not cut a groove in the ice, but instead allow the anglers to drill a series of holes quickly and easily. This series of holes can be used by the angler to start his trolling run.

Using a depthfinder through the ice allows a degree of precision you can only dream about in the summer. While trolling, for example, you get a vague idea from your depth finder of the structural elements, like points and indentations in a drop off, and if the wind isn’t to stiff, you can more or less repeat a pass or hold your boat directly above a piece of fish holding structure. In the winter, however, you can literally mark an X above the tip of a point and walk a trail along a break line. You can map every detail of a reef and know for the rest of the winter where to dig your holes.

Such precise scanning of the bottom is possible because the depth finder reads right through the ice. Just squirt some liquid on the ice, place the transducer face down in the puddle, and note the reading. You can then move another 2 feet and take another reading. It’s possible to hone in on fish or on the most likely place to catch them before drilling a single hole.

Let’s say I’m working a sunken island that tops out at eight feet and is covered with vegetation that ends at 14 feet. I’ll drill holes all over the top of the structure that I’m going to jig in, and I’ll drill some more holes along the edge of the weeds where I’m going to place a tip-up.

I'll put the tip-up with a shiner minnow right on the edge of the weeds then go jig a lure in the shallower holes. You give the tip-up a half hour to produce something and if the flag doesn't pop, then move it to another hole.

If I don't get a bite on the mid-lake structure I know the fish are relating to the shoreline. Here you're fishing weeds, weed lines and drop offs. Drill a series of holes along the weedline first to give you an idea where the points, inside turns, and edges are. Then drill some holes here-and-there over the top of the weeds. Set the tip-up and shiner right on the edge and go jig in the weeds.

I like the spoon, which is a heavy metal vibrating blade bait, to search in the weeds for a couple of reasons. First, this lure is heavy enough to poke through any mats of vegetation and get right down underneath where the weeds thin out and the fish wait to ambush unsuspecting prey. Second, the lure vibrates and makes a sound that draws these aggressive feeding fish into the lures range.

I work a hole for about 15 to 20 minutes. I don't have a depthfinder transducer in the hole when I'm fishing like this because the lure is often under or in the weeds and it's impossible to see the lure or any fish.

In lakes where the weeds are sparse a depth finder can help you see the lure and show a fish if it moves up to the bait, but typically you're fishing in water less than 12 feet deep, so you can't really see fish on the sonar unless they are right on top of the bait.

Sometimes the tip-up gets a lot of action and the shallower jigging is not producing. When that happens I'll use the jigging rod in the deeper holes. On the weedlines I like to use a quarter ounce Northland Fire Eye Minnow and tip the treble hook with the head of a minnow.

Of course at this time of year it is hard to troll to find active fish, but in a sense you can apply the methods that you use in the summertime. Drill holes from the shallowest portion of the structure you are fishing and then continue to drill holes at various depths as the structure drops off into deeper water. Then instead of "trolling" along the structure you can use tip-ups to cover from the deepest to the shallowest point. Tip-ups enable you to cover more water than you could with a minnow and float. A flag can be seen from several hundred feet away. Most states allow you to use two lines and if you have a number of fishing buddies with you, you can cover the structure at various depths and in effect troll the edge of the structure.

For more information on fishing those hard water ‘eyes or any other species that swims, stop by Guides Choice in Eagle River, Wisconsin and ask to see the latest gear in for ice fishing or the upcoming fishing season.



This Fishing Article is brought to you by Colin D. Crawford
Source : http://www.walleyehunter.com/articles/crawford17.html

* Catch and Release Fishing - What you Should Know..?

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Catch and Release Fishing - What you Should Know
Author: Sinta Makah


Sorting out relevant information on any topic is very difficult but this article on fishing tries to put all the relevant information about fishing at one place.
Being interested in fishing means that you must be eager to gain as much information on fishing as possible. To make things easier for you, we have this article for you having all the relevant information on fishing.
When we decided on writing this article on fishing, we knew that we could provide our readers with something which would be different from what was being presented to them. And now when you are reading this article, you would have to decide on our success.
Fishing is a sport, but it has become less about survival and more about fun in recent decades. There is an issue of fish becoming depleted and many anglers are now employing the practice of catch and release fishing. Catch and release fishing is a great theory, but many people are doing it incorrectly and as a result many fish are dying. A few steps should be followed when trying to catch and release a fish. Once you get the hang of how to do it correctly, you will be able to enjoy your hobby and keep the population of fish full in your favorite stream or lake.
Article reading is something which is done to gain knowledge and information about a particular topic and if these means are not achieved then reading the article would be a waste of time. Now, when you are reading this article on fishing, how would you rate the time spent in reading it The best place to start is with the hooks. A fish that has a hole through its mouth is going to be more likely to survive than a fish with a hole in its lung or gill. If you happen to hook a fish in the gut, the best thing to do is to cut off the hook as much as you can then release the fish. Many times the hook will dissolve and the fish will spit it out, but they can also live with a rusted hook hanging from them. Whatever you do, do not tug on your line to pull a hook out or you will severely hurt the fish. If you are able to easily remove the hook, use a pair of needle nose pliers. The process of pulling the hook out is easier if you remove the barbs from the hooks, but try not to wiggle while you pull the hook out.
Learning is a continuous process and you can never claim that you everything worth knowing about any topic and we think that you must have realized this when you have started reading this article.
Fish are obviously unable to survive outside of the water. Therefore, the longer that it takes you to release them, the more it becomes as if you are suffocating them. The way that a fish is gripped when out of the water will make a big difference. For instance, avoid touch a fish’s body with your bare hands. The fish have a slimy protective coat that will be stripped if you touch them with your hands. If you have to touch a fish, make sure that your hands are wet. You may want to wear gloves to protect your hands from cuts or permeating fish smells.
It goes without saying that you are interested in fishing and that is what prompted you to read this article. It is now for you decide if your effort has been fruitful or not.
Part of the fun in fishing is to “play out” the fish. The struggle can be what some anglers wait all day to do. Fish are like humans; when they “work out,” they build up lactic acid. When you are fighting a fish, they are fighting too. Just like when someone works his or her body out and it feels sore, a fish experiences the same thing. The build up of lactic acid can be toxic to a fish even days later. Therefore, if you are going to practice catch and release, try to keep the struggle to a minimum.
Hasn’t this article made you aware of the fact that so much information existed on fishing and that you were unaware of even the fact that you were unaware of it?
Try not to let a fish flop around when you catch them. A fish that flops around can bruise or damage its internal organs, causing them to die later from the injuries that are incurred. You can also revive a fish if you need to do so. A fish is likely to run out of oxygen and pass out, so to speak. In order to revive a fish, you place the fish in the water with their belly down and gently grasp their tail. Start to slowly move their tail back and forth until they give you the signal that they are ready to take off into the water. Sometimes you will need to repeat the process more than once, but don’t let a fish go until they are ready. A fish that is not ready to swim could get carried away and swept into rocks or embankment and cause serious injury.
More than anything, when you are practicing catch and release, have everything ready to go. Make sure that your camera, pliers, and gloves are in reaching distance. Try to take the precautions necessary to preserve fish and one of America’s favorite pastimes.
Are you looking for some inside information on fishing? Here's an up-to-date report from fishing experts who should know.

Article Source: ArticlesBase.com - Catch and Release Fishing - What you Should Know

* All you Ever Wanted to Know About Bass Fishing

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All you Ever Wanted to Know About Bass Fishing

Author: Sinta Makah
Bass fishing is one of the most common types of fishing. Many bass fish are found in bayou water and salt water. They also move through lakes, ponds, reservoirs and streams. If you know the basics regarding conditions and places where bass are likely to be, you will have more success when you fish for them.

Many variables change the location of bass, such as water conditions, water levels, weather, and light and food availability. There are three main elements that must be present in a body of water in order for bass to survive: Food, oxygen, and cover.


A bass’ favorite meal is crawfish, which they prefer over shad. Basically, crawfish are usually more plentiful and they are easy for the Bass to catch. However, a bass will typically eat anything from rats, mice, ducklings, frogs, snakes, salamanders, worms, lizards, grubs, baitfish, insects, and leeches. Their ability to feast on one thing above another is why many people find such enjoyment from fishing bass.


Oxygen is another key component in finding bass fish. The basic rule of thumb is that the cooler the water, the more oxygen content. Therefore, if you are fishing in the spring, summer or early fall, you will find that the larger bass will drop down lower to find the cooler and more oxygen-filled water. They will also swim to find areas that are more concentrated in vegetation in order to find a better oxygen source. Trees, stumps, wind-blown banks, and power plants are all good sources of oxygen that will attract bass fish.

A bass relies on cover for a means of protection and way of ambush. Cover is part of a bass’ survival. The bass is known as a lazy fish, so they will hide and wait for their prey to come to them. The other reason for cover is that bass fish do not have eyelids and the cover is a way to prevent blindness. Some common cover areas to find bass in are around fabricated wood structures such as fencerows, docks, and pilings. They have been known to hide under floating pieces of wood or decaying wood. Weeds are the second best place to hunt for bass. Finally, rocks are the third place that bass will find cover. Rocks are not as reliable as weeds or wood, but sometimes a bass will find decaying pieces of food to feast on within some rocks. Remember that rocks do not produce oxygen, so the source is not as consistent.


When it comes to fishing, everyone has a different opinion. You will often find that these opinions range in location and source. However, there are some lures and baits that are recommended for bass fishing that may be useful if you haven’t tried them. Tequila colored 7-inch worms with added scent are recommended, as well as Rebel Wee-Rs. Hellgrammites are thought to be the best live bait, and many will say that you don’t need big lures to attract big bass. Everyone will tell you to tie up to an embankment, or find a dock to get close to, but it is really an art that could take years to perfect.


Bass are notorious for slow moving and lack of distance in their movements. Logically, you could sit 30 feet from the biggest bass of your life, and he is not going to swim to your bait out of pure laziness. Finding the exact spot is difficult and a lot of fishing has to do with luck. The only part that you can control is finding the most likely places that a bass may be and exercise some patience. Weather is important to bass as well. If it is a cloudy day, you might have more luck than on a hot summer day. However, overcast is probably ideal for water temperatures, but then you have to decide what you are willing to sit through in order to catch a fish. The bottom line with bass fishing is you can only do your best with the knowledge at hand.
Article Source: ArticlesBase.com - All you Ever Wanted to Know About Bass Fishing